UC-NRLF 


$B    2fiE    ESE 


1 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 

GIFT  OF 

Mrs.  Marion  Randall  Parsons 


7^ 


Digitized  by  tine  Internet  Archive 

in  2007  witin  funding  from 

IVIicrosoft  Corporation 


lnttp://www.arcliive.org/details/campingoutincaliOOriderich 


CAMPING   OUT 


IN 


CALIFORNIA 


BY 


Mrs.   J.   B.    Rideout, 

Author  of  "SIX  YEARS  ON  THE  BORDER."  etc. 


>»>»■«♦•  — 


R.  R.  PATTERSON 

429  Montgomery  St.  San  Franoisco. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year 
1889, 

By     R.    R.     PATTERSON, 

In  the  office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress  at  Wash- 
ington. 


GIFT 


R5 


CONTENTS. 


Chapter  I. 

PAGE. 

The  Gigantic  Redwoods 4 


Chapter  II. 
MeDdocino  City 22 

Chapter  III. 
Treasures  of  the  Deep     36 

Chapter  IV. 
Hunting  a  Whale     54 

Chapter  V. 
Sabbath  on  the  Mountain 71 

Chapter  VI. 
Sight-seeing  in  San  Francisco 103 

Chapter   VII. 
Santa  Clara  Valley 126 


ivi8i662l 


Chapter  VIII. 

PAGE. 

G.  A.  11.  Reunions 164 


Chapter  IX. 
Tlie  Orphans'  Home .* 194 

Chapter  X. 
Insane  Asylum ; 207 

Chapter  XI. 
Crossing  St.  Helena 219 

Chapter  XII. 
Home  at  Last 226 


Camping  Out  in  California. 

CHAPTER  I. 

THE  GIGANTIC  REDWOODS. 

In  the  month  of  Jul}^  I  received 
an  invitation  to  go  with  a  party  of 
young  folks.  They  were  to  take  a  large 
wagon  and  roam  ''  over  the  mountains 
and  far  away,"  pitching  their  tents 
wherever  night  found  them,  and  cook- 
ing their  provisions  the  old-fashioned 
way  over  a  camp-fire  in  a  dutch  oven 
and  a  long-handled  frying  pan. 

I  must  confess  I  felt  dubious  about 
starting,  but  after  the  comforting  assur- 
ances that  if  we  were  upset  down  some 
steep  mountain  side,  or  if  wild  beasts 
devoured  us,  or  a  band  of  robbers  car- 
ried us  away,  they  would  all  willingly 
bear  me  company  in  each  and  every 


6  Camping  Out  in  California. 

trouble,  I  consented  to  cast  in  my  lot 
with  the  rest. 

There  were  seven  of  us,  but  as  I  have 
not  asked  permission,  I  shall  not  give 
their  true  names,  but  will  call  some  of 
them  Linnie,  Will,  Eda,  Ben  and  Harry; 
all  in  their  teens  except  Harry,  and  he 
as  brave  and  eager  for  fun  as  the 
others. 

After  the  provisions,  bedding,  tent 
and  etceteras  were  packed  in  the  wagon 
it  did  not  look  as  if  there  was  room  for 
the  living  portion  of  the  load,  but  when 
we  safely  stoived  away  we  had  comfort- 
able seats. 

Traveling  northward,  we  journeyed 
along  Clear  Lake,  situated  near  the 
centre  of  Lake  County.  It  is  a  beauti- 
ful sheet  of  water  which  we  have  heard 
tourists  say  reminded  them  of  the  Sea 
of  Galilee. 

The  bosom  of  the  lake  is  disturbed 
by  a  light  breeze,  that  causes  the  waves 
and  ripples  to  sparkle  in  the  sunlight 
as  if  covered  with  millions  of  flashing 


The  Gigantic  Redwoods.  7 

diamonds,  while  beautiful  capes  shaded 
with  the  dark  green  of  the  oak  and  the 
light  green  of  the  manzanita,  shoot  out 
in  the  lake,  and  the  reflection  of  moun- 
tain and  cape  and  foliage  is  wondrously 
lovely,  for  the  dazzling  sunlight  re- 
flected from  mountains  on  every  side, 
turns  this  body  of  water  into  a  grand 
mirror  in  which  the  pinnacles  with  oak 
and  pine  can  look  down  and  see  their  fair 
faces  and  giant  forms.  On  the  western 
side  is  "Uncle  Sam,"  the  loftiest  moun- 
tain in  the  county,  and  nestling  close 
under  its  shadows  is  ''Soda  Bay,"  a 
delightful  resort  for  invalids  or  pleas- 
ure seekers.  The  grounds  around  the 
hotel  are  extensive  and  shady,  and 
scattered  here  and  there  under  the  trees 
are  little  cottages*  and  tents. 

Soda  Bay  receives  its  name  from  the 
quantity  of  mineral  springs  bubbling 
up  through  the  water  of  the  lake  near 
the  shore.  The  largest  and  most  bois- 
terous of  these  is  situated  in  a  reef  that 
extends  into  the  lake,  and  over  it  they 


8  Camping  Out  in  California. 

have  built  a  bath  house,  and  bathing 
in  its  tepid  waters  is  found  very  bene- 
ficial to  nearly  all  invalids. 

We  should  have  found  it  extremely 
warm  through  the  valley  but  for  the 
canvas  cover  on  the  wagon  which  shel- 
tered us  from  the  rays  of  the  sun. 

Before  night  we  came  to  a  sign-board 
marked  ''Two  miles  to  Pearson  Springs." 
We  had  heard  of  this  health  resort  and 
turned  aside  to  visit  it.  It  is  in  a  quiet 
little  nook  surrounded  by  mountains. 
The  springs  are  a  curiosity,  displaying 
a  wonderful  freak  of  bountiful  nature. 
There  are  four  springs  in  a  strata  of 
rock  on  the  mountain  side,  about  forty 
feet  above  the  hotel.  It  is  but  three  hun- 
dred feet  from  the  first  to  the  last,  yet 
they  are  all  entirely  different  mineral, 
iron,  soda,  magnesia  and  sulphur,  and 
all  very  strong  and  of  remarkable  cura- 
tive power.  The  sulphur  water  is  not 
unpleasant  to  the  taste  but  it  has  an 
exceedingly  disagreeable  odor 

They  told  us  that  a  few  feet  higher 


The  Gigantic  Redwoods.  9 

up  the  mountain  we  would  find  the 
whiskey  spring,  but  as  we  were  all 
''Good  Templars"  we  did  not  care  to 
visit  it. 

We  had  great  fun  pitching  our  tent 
and  making  down  our  beds  for  the  first 
time.  We  filled  our  coarse  ticks  with 
hay,  and  if  they  were  not  quite  equal 
to  spring  beds,  they  served  the  same 
purpose,  for  we  all  slept  soundly  and 
well. 

About  two  miles  on  our  journey  in 
the  morning  we  came  to  Blue  Lakes,  a 
very  pleasant  resort  for  tourists;  and 
from  there  our  way  wound  upward 
around  the  side  of  a  high  mountain. 

The  view  was  delightful.  Before  us 
rose  the  oak-croAvned  mountain. 
Behind  us  lay  the  little  valley,  and 
from  the  trees  we  could  still  see  the 
bright  green  festoons  of  the  wild  grape 
vines  swaying  gently  to  and  fro  in  the 
breeze,  forming  a  pleasing  contrast  to 
the  brilliant  scarlet  of  the  poison-oak, 
which  flecked  the  landscape  everywhere, 


10  Camping  Out  in  Calif orhia. 

giving  tone  and  color  to  the  most  som- 
bre place.  Below  us  on  the  right 
rested  the  three  lakes  like  lovel}^  tur- 
quois  gems  with  a  momitain  setting. 

Before  sunset  we  had  crossed  the 
mountain  and  reached  a  small  town  in 
the  valley,  where  we  camped  over  the 
Sabbath.  Each  had  taken  a  Sunday 
suit,  so  we  had  the  pleasure  of  listening 
to  an  excellent  service. 

Monday  morning  our  way  led  up 
another  mountain  and  some  one  told 
us  it  was  ten  miles  to  Shady  side,  the 
first  good  resting  place.  The  weather 
was  hot,  and  after  the  first  few  miles 
the  mountain  was  so  steep  that  the 
young  folks  walked;  then  the  miles 
lengthened  out  until  we  were  ready  to 
assert  that  we  had  come  twenty  at  least, 
when  around  a  turn  in  the  road  we 
found  a  large  trough  filled  with  water 
from  a  cold  spring  near  by,  and  a  camp- 
ing ground. 

There  were  three  other  ivagon  loads 
of  campers  enjoying  the  shade,  and  we 


The  Gigantic  Redwoods.  11 

were  sony  to  learn  that  they  were  going 
in  the  opposite  direction. 

After  a  good  lunch  we  started  on  and 
in  a  short  time  were  among  the  gigantic 
redwoods.  Words  give  hat  a  faint 
idea  of  the  appearance  of  these  grand 
old  monarchs  of  the  forest,  so  large 
and  tall  and  straight,  tapering  gradually 
to  the  far  away  tops.  We  were  all  quite 
excited  and  looked  out  first  on  one  side 
and  then  on  the  other,  and  every  few 
minutes  the  boys  would  jump  out  and 
measure  a  tree,  until  they  fovmd  one 
that  was  over  forty  feet  in  circum- 
ference and  even  then  they  were  not 
satisfied,  but  wanted  to  measure  an- 
other one  that  looked  a  little  larger. 

It  was  now  cool  and  pleasant,  and  we 
soon  began  to  go  down,  down  the  moun- 
tain, whirling  around  short  turns  and 
still  seeing  the  road  winding  hack  and 
forth  below  us.  There  were  places 
which  made  me  feel  dizzy  to  look  down, 
and  if  the  other  members  of  the  party 
had  not  reminded  me  of  the  fact  that 


12  Camping  Out  in  California. 

they  were  clinging  to  me  I  would  have 
been  more  frightened. 

The  road  was  very  steep  and  they 
kept  the  brake  on  the  wheels  until  I 
became  alarmed  and  said,  ''Oh,  I  am 
afraid  the  brake  will  break." 

''If  it  don't  brake  we  shall  all  be 
killed,"  replied  the  driver  coolly. 

Occasionally  we  passed  a  house  built 
of  shakes,  and  in  comparison  with  the 
trees  around,  it  looked  like  a  play- 
house built  by  some  child. 

It  was  nearly  sundown  when  we 
reached  the  bottom  of  the  grade  at  a 
place  called  Low  Gap,  where  we  were 
granted  permission  to  camp  near  the 
spring  on  condition  that  the  boys  would 
not  shoot  the  quail,  which  were  so  tame 
that  they  came  up  to  eat  with  the 
chickens. 

Low  Gap  was  a  very  dismal  place, 
dense  woods  on  every  side,  and  as 
darkness  settled  around  us  the  girls 
became  somewhat  afraid  and  talked  in 
lugubrio  us  tones  of  grizzly  bears,  moun- 


The  Gigantic  Redwoods.  13 

tain  lions   and   other  beasts    of  prey. 

After  a  moment's  silence  one  said 
softly:  'The  grand  old  woods,  'God's 
first  temple/  how  they  draw  us  nearer 
to  him;"  and  another  repeated,  ''They 
go  up  by  the  mountains,  they  go  down 
by  the  valleys  unto  the  place  thou  has 
founded  for  them."  "As  the  mountains 
are  round  about  Jerusalem,  so  is  the 
Lord  round  about  his  people."  And 
his  blessed  promises  stilled  our  fears, 
and  after  committing  ourselves  once 
more  to  his  care,  we  lay  down  with  the 
quieting  assurance  that  he  would  be 
round  about  us. 

We  had  a  lively  time  in  the  morn- 
ing, for  the  pigs  smelled  our  breakfast, 
and  came  flocking  in  from  all  directions, 
determined  to  share  it  with  us,  and  we 
were  glad  when  we  were  ready  to  resume 
our  upward  way. 

Now  we  began  to  really  enjoy  our 
journey,  for  the  air  was  cool  and  filled 
with  a  woody  fragrance  that  was  pleas- 
ant and  refreshing.     The  joyous  birds 


14  Camping  Out  in  California. 

welcomed  us  with  their  sweetest  music, 
and  the  bright  jay-bird  tlitted  noisily 
through  the  trees  and  ever  and  anon 
large  flocks  of  quail  would  go  whirring 
beyond  the  reach  of  a  stray  shot,  while 
all  the  time  busy  squirrels  went  scam- 
pering up  the  trees,  scolding  loudly  at 
our  intrusion,  and  the  scenery  was 
both  beautiful  and  grand  all  that  day. 

While  we  were  driving  along  the  top 
of  the  mountain  with  the  giants  of  the 
forest  on  one  side,  and  a  canyon  on  the 
other  where  we  could  look  down  on  the 
tops  of  the  tall  trees,  it  seemed  as  if  we 
could  hear  a  voice  whisper,  ^'Be  still 
and  know  that  I  am  God." 

We  came  to  a  good  camping  place  as 
the  sun  was  sinking  among  the  distant 
trees,  piercing  with  his  flying  arrows  of 
gold  the  bright  mountain  bowers, 
which,  like  those  of  Eden,  had  some 
time  in  the  long  ago  been  planted  by 
the  hand  of  God. 

Here,  while  the  boys  were  pitching 
the  tent,  we  stood  and  gazed  in  wonder 


The  Gigantic  Redwoods.  15 

and  admiration  upon  the  bright  pict- 
ures of  nature,  which,  untarnished  by 
the  hand  of  fallen  man.  hang  in  this 
mountain  cathedral.  Yonder  in  the 
canyon,  hundreds  of  feet  below  us,  and 
in  the  shadow  of  the  distant  rising  cliffs, 
we  look  down  upon  the  dark  foliage, 
which,  too  low  to  be  disturbed  by  the 
evening  breeze,  reminds  us  of  some  of 
the  lakes  we  had  already  passed.  Stand- 
ing where  we  were  and  looking  down, 
far  dow^n  on  the  tops  of  the  trees,  they 
seemed  all  on  a  level,  but  beyond  the 
canyon  the  trunks  of  the  massive  red- 
woods and  pines  were  visible  from  the 
roots  to  the  branches.  What  an  army 
of  monsters,  standing  every  one  a  little 
higher  than  its  nearest  neighbor  below, 
and  nodding  their  lofty  heads  to  the 
ocean  wind  that  marched  along  the 
high  land  but  did  not  dare  venture 
down  into  the  deep  gulches;  they  almost 
seemed  like  a  battalion  of  giant  sol- 
diers climbing  the  mountain. 
Far  above  and  overhanging  the  valley, 


16  Camping  Out  m  Califonda. 

were  hugh  pinnacles  of  rock  which  re- 
minded us  of  ancient  castles,  with  high 
walls,  domes  and  vestibules,  all  bril- 
liantly lighted  by  the  fire-rays  of  the 
setting  sun.  While  just  above  the  cas- 
tellated rocks  a  bright  cloud  moved 
silently  like  a  chariot  of  the  heavens, 
from  which  we  could  imagine  angels 
were  looking  out  in  order  to  get  a  pass- 
ing glimpse  of  earth's  attractive  beauty 
and  thrilling  sublimity. 

But  our  pleasant  reverie  was  broken 
by  the  shouts  of  the  girls  and  the  crack- 
ling of  the  camp-fire  which  recalled  us 
to  the  fact  that  supper  must  be  pre- 
pared. The  boys  were  seen  coming 
through  the  trees  bringing  gray  squir- 
rels and  a  young  rabbit  as  their  addition 
to  the  bill  of  fare,  and  the  dutch-oven, 
frying-pan  and  coffee-boiler  were  placed 
over  the  fire,  and  a  good  supply  for  all 
was  soon  ready. 

Supper  being  over  and  the  curtain 
of  night  fallen  around  us,  we  sat  in 
front  of  the  tent  to  watch  the  twinkling 


The  Gigantic  Redwoods.  17 

stars  with  never  a  shadow  of  fear,  for 
we  fancied  the  words  of  the  Psalmist: 
"Praise  ye  the  Lord  from  the  heavens, 
praise  him  in  the  heights,  praise  him 
all  ye  stars  of  light,  mountains  and  all 
hills,  fruitful  trees  and  all  cedars,"  were 
echoing  in  the  sound  of  the  wind- 
tossed  boughs  high  over  our  heads. 

The  morning  was  delightful  and  a 
joy  to  be  long  remembered.  The  rock- 
b^und  cliffs  and  the  green  valleys  that 
lay  below  were  flooded  with  the  morn- 
ing sunlight,  but  we  could  not  tarry 
long  to  feast  our  eyes  upon  such  loveli- 
ness. 

We  were  winding  slowly  along  the 
mountain,  when  we  were  startled  by 
seeing  directly  below  us  the  great 
feathery  top  of  one  of  the  mountain 
sentinels  moving  slowly  through  the 
air.  The  axe  had  done  its  work,  and 
an  emblem  of  human  loftiness,  it  was 
bowing  to  the  earth  from  whence  it 
arose. 

The  pyramid  of  bright  green  moved 


18  Camping  Out  in  California. 

slowly  along  for  an  instant  and  dis- 
appeared beneath  the  waving  foliage, 
as  a  vessel  disappears  beneath  the 
billows  of  the  ocean.  But  oh !  the  crash 
that  followed;  we  could  feel  the  moun- 
tain tremble  as  the  thunder  of  the  fall 
arose  from  the  dark  canyon  below,  and 
re-echoed  among  the  surrounding 
mountains.  But  in  a  moment  all  was 
quiet;  the  boughs  that  were  moved  by 
its  fall  had  ceased  to  sway;  the  rever- 
beration had  died  away  in  the  distance, 
and  the  monarch  that  went  down  would 
never  be  missed  by  its  giant  brothers. 

One  of  the  company  said:  ^'That  is  a 
good  illustration  of  the  great  men  of 
the  world  who  go  down.  The  earth  is 
moved  by  their  fall  and  for  a  short  time 
their  names  and  deeds  ring  from  ocean 
to  ocean,  but  how  soon  they  are  forgotten 
and  all  is  quiet." 

Here  our  driver  started  up  the  horses 
and  our  wagon  again  moved  along  the 
serpentine  road,  and  soon  reached  the 
place   where   they    had   been   cutting 


The  Gigantic  Redwoods.  19 

down  the  redwoods.  The  trees  had 
been  cut  off  several  feet  above  the 
ground,  and  we  wondered  why  it  was 
done  and  how^  and  as  there  was  a  man 
near  making  raikoad  ties,  we  asked 
him  about  it. 

He  said  the  timber  near  the  roots 
was  not  easy  to  work,  and  as  it  was  a 
hard  job  to  saw  a  log  off,  they  cut 
through  the  bark,  drove  in  wedges, 
built  a  platform  to  stand  on,  and  cut 
the  tree  off  as  high  up  as  they  thought 
best. 

The  boys  w^ere  greatly  interested 
and  wished  we  had  time  to  watch  the 
men  make  preparations  for  felling  a' 
tree. 

The  logs  looked  immense  when  com- 
pared with  those  we  had  seen  in  other 
places,  and  an  enthusiastic  passer-by 
had  written  on  the  ends  of  some  of 
them,  'This  is  a  buster,"  This  is  the 
boss,"  ''Hard  to  beat,"  and  they  were 
surely  hard  to  beat,  for  Will  climbed  a 
stump  and  found  it  measured  nearly 


20  Camping  Out  in  California. 

seventeen  feet  across,  bnt  we  soon 
learned  that  even  this  stump  could  be 
beaten.  Near  the  road  where  we 
stopped  for  our  nooning  stood  a  barn 
of  medium  height  with  a  steep  roof 
made  of  redwood  shakes.  It  was  one 
of  the  largest  barns  we  had  seen  in 
several  miles.  The  owner  said  it  was 
large  enough  for  four  horses,  wagons, 
and  considerable  hay.  This  barn  was 
a  huge  hollow  stump  with  a  door  in 
one  side.  The  fire  had  burned  it  out, 
leaving  only  a  shell.  The  gentleman 
laughed  at  our  astonishment,  and  told 
us  that  over  in  the  timber  a  few  miles 
was  a  large  family  living  in  a  stump. 
The  young  folks  wanted  to  visit  them, 
but  the  road  looked  too  rough. 

We  camped  early  on  the  bank  of  the 
Albion  river,  for  there  were  deer  tracks 
all  around  and  Will  wanted  to  go  hunt- 
ing. He  loaded  his  rifle  and  started 
off  with  the  expectation  of  having  some 
venison  for  supper. 

Ben  soon  made   the  discovery  that 


The  Gigantic  Redwoods.  21 

there  was  fish. in  the  river,  so  the  rest 
of  us  went  fishing  and  were  rewarded 
with  a  large  string  of  mountain  trout. 
Harry  was  eager  to  catch  one,  but  after 
he  succeeded  he  felt  so  sorry  that  he 
said,  'Toor  little  fishie,  you  can  go 
right  straight  back  to  your  mother," 
and  dropped  it  into  the  stream  and 
gave  up  fishing. 

We  heard  quite  a  number  of  shots 
and  Linnie  said,  ''Will  must  be  killing 
deer  enough  to  supply  a  regiment,"  but 
the  sun  was  nearly  down  and  we  were 
getting  uneasy  about  him,  when  became 
into  camp  bringing  one  small  cotton- 
tail rabbit. 

He  bore  all  our  teasing  good-naturedl}^ 
as  he  had  been  quite  a  successful 
hunter,  keeping  us  well  supplied  with 
small  game. 


CHAPTER  II. 

MENDOCINO    CITY. 

The  next  morning  we  passed  an  old 
logging  camp.  Ben  and  Harry  said 
they  would  like  to  live  there  all  the 
time,  they  could  have  such  fun  playing 
on  the  stumps. 

The  fire  had  swept  over  the  fallen 
trees  and  the  side  of  the  mountain  was 
seamed  and  scarred  where  they  had 
sent  the  huge  logs  crashing  down  into 
the  stream.  We  thought  of  the  grand 
and  beautiful  forest  through  which  we 
had  been  passing  and  the  contrast  be- 
tween that  and  this  blackened  and  dev- 
astated scene  was  so  great  that  it  made 
us  think  of  Eden  before  and  after  the 
fall,  and  we  wondered  why  it  was  that 
man  so  often  marred  the  handiwork  of 
God. 

For   quite  a   number   of  miles  our 


Mendocino  City.  23 

road  lay  through  this  despoiled  forest. 
We  then  entered  a  damp,  dark  canyon, 
so  cold  we  hastily  donned  our  heavy 
cloaks  and  coats,  and  wrapped  up  in 
blankets  to  keep  comfortable,  while  far 
above  our  heads  the  grey  light  faintly 
glimmered  through  the  interlaced 
branches.  On  one  side  of  the  road 
there  was  a  stream  so  sluggish  that  it 
had  formed  in  pools  bordered  by  coarse 
sedges. 

It  was  so  cold  and  gloomy  that  even 
the  birds  did  not  sound  a  note  of  praise, 
although  we  saw  them  occasionally  flit- 
ting from  bough  to  bough  and  darting 
across  the  road  before  us.  An  auda- 
cious little  chipmunk  was  the  only  thing 
that  dared  make  a  noise.  From  the 
branches  which  overhung  the  slimy 
pools  drooped  long  loops  and  pendants 
of  ragged  grey  moss  which  gave  a  weird 
look  to  the  dreary  scene,  while  away 
througli  the  dark  vistas  of  the  forest 
we  imagined  we  could  discover  under 
the  mistletoe-crowned   oaks  just  such 


24  Camping  Oat  in  California. 

places  as  the  ancient  Druids  would 
have  chosen  for  their  most  inhuman 
rites. 

After  a  few  hours  in  this  dark  canyon 
which  seemed  like  the  'S^ alley  of  the 
shadow  of  death/'  we  beheld  ''a  light 
shining  in  the  darkness."  Like  the 
dawn  of  morning  it  presented  such  a 
contrast  to  the  gloom  of  the  canyon 
that  we  were  not  a  little  comforted  by 
its  appearance. 

Here  in  this  opening  we  found  other 
trees,  but  they  were  loaded,  almost 
bending  to  the  earth  beneath  their 
burden  of  ripening  fruit.  What  a 
variety  of  colors,  gold  and  red  and  pur- 
ple, in  their  different  shades. 

After  gazing  upon  the  immense  trees 
of  the  mountains  and  then  suddenly 
coming  in  sight  of  an  apple  tree  with 
its  branches  bowed  down  with  its  bur- 
den of  fruit,  we  were  forcibly  reminded 
of  the  words,  ''As  the  apple  tree  among 
the  trees  of  the  wood,  so  is  my  beloved 
among  the  sons." 


Mendocino  City.  25 

We  could  feel  a  great  difference  in 
the  air  and  everything  looked  as  if 
there  had  been  a  refreshing  shower, 
but  as  Ave  knew  that  was  not  probable 
in  the  month  of  July  in  California  we 
concluded  there  must  have  been  a  heavy 
fog. 

In  this  opening  stood  a  neat  log 
house  with  trailing  vines  over  the  doors 
and  windoAvs,  and  surrounded  by  fruit 
trees,  huge  black  stumps,  piles  of  rail- 
road ties,  and  fence  posts,  a  few  stacks 
of  grain  and  hay  and  a  number  of 
cattle. 

The  clearing  contained  but  few  acres 
and  on  one  side  the  forest  Avas  so  near 
that  some  of  the  large  trees  falling  in 
the  direction  of  the  house  Avould  haA^e 
crushed  it.  Around  this  little  home  of 
the  mountain  forest,  as  if  by  the  hands 
of  the  Dryads,  the  Avooded  curtains 
ornamented  Avith  Avaving  fringe  and 
dotted  Avith  red  and  yellow  leaves  were 
hung  on  every  side.  Not  much  of  the 
world  could  we  see  there.     But  it  Avas 


26  Camping  Out  in  California. 

a  home  that  many  a  city  child  might 
well  envy;  the  atmosphere  so  bracing, 
the  water  so  cold  and  pure,  and  the 
music  of  the  winds  and  birds  and  brook 
so  cheering,  while  the  heaven  above 
with  eyes  of  radiant  light  looked  as  lov- 
ingly on  that  secluded  spot  as  on  the 
city  mansions  of  the  lordly  and  aristo- 
cratic. 

As  we  passed  through  the  niche  in 
the  forest,  we  saw  three  or  four  children 
at  play.  Their  cheeks  were  nearly  as 
bright  red  as  the  apples  that  hung  over 
their  heads,  while  by  their  merry  shouts 
and  ringing  laughter  we  knew  they 
were  as  happy  as  the  birds  flying  above 
them. 

The  great  region  known  as  the  red- 
Woods  is  strewn  with  such  little  homes, 
and  we  were  told  that  thousands  and 
thousands  of  acres  remain  to  be  taken. 
This  land  is  not  very  valuable  at  pres- 
ent, but  the  time,  no  doubt,  is  not  far 
distant  when  those  who  hold  land  in 
that  region  will  be  very  wealthy. 


Mendocino  City.  27 

We  soon  came  to  a  large  plain  that 
some  time  in  the  past  had  been  swept 
hy  the  fire.  Scattered  over  it  here  and 
there  were  the  bare,  lifeless  trunks  of 
blackened  trees.  The  ground  was  cov- 
ered with  dark  green  bushes,  which 
caused  one  of  the  company  to  say, 
^'That  looks  very  much  like  a  blueberry 
bog;"  and  as  we  reached  the  bushes 
another  exclaimed,  ''Blueberries!  Blue- 
berries!" 

The  bushes  were  loaded  with  berries  > 
and  as  it  was  the  first  time  we  had  seen 
any  growing  since  we  left  New  Eng- 
land, we  went  to  gathering  the  fruit, 
and  when  we  had  eaten  all  we  wanted, 
we  filled  pails,  pans  and  everything 
available  with  the  delicious  berries. 

What  a  hearty  laugh  we  had  after 
we  gathered  at  the  wagon,  for  we  were 
an  exceedingly  blue  looking  company. 
As  there  was  no  water  on  the  plain  we 
were  obliged  to  be  resigned  to  our  blue 
looks,  but  we  thought  if  we  should  meet 
any  one  he  would  conclude  water  must 


28  Cmnping  Out  hi  California. 

have  been  very  scarce  where  we  last 
camped. 

The  scenery  was  different  now,  for 
we  had  left  the  mountains.  The  trees 
were  not  so  large  and  we  found  hazel 
and  blackberry  bushes,  but  we  were 
too  late  to  share  in  the  nuts  and  ber- 
ries. We  saw  a  peculiar  looking  bush 
with  the  nuts  growing  each  in  a  shell 
b}^  itself,  but  about  twenty  clustered 
together  in  a  compact  ball.  They  were 
not  quite  ripe  and  we  could  never  learn 
what  they  were. 

We  were  very  much  interested  in 
the  different  flowers,  shrubs  and  trees 
and  would  have  lingered  longer  had  we 
not  heard  the  distant  roar  of  the  ocean. 
As  we  drew  near  the  coast,  expectation 
was  at  its  height.  We  all  eagerly  de- 
sired to  look  out  on  the  rolling  billows 
of  the  mighty  Pacific.  The  young  peo- 
ple clapped  their  hands  and  talked  and 
laughed  so  heartily  that  a  gentle  rebuke 
from  the  more  sedate  was  occasionally 
necessary. 


Mendocino  City.  29 

But  how  exceedingly  cold  and  damp 
it  was !  Never  before  had  we  exper- 
ienced such  a  chilling  sensation  in  the 
month  of  July.  The  fog  became  so 
dense  that  we  could  see  but  a  few  feet 
in  either  direction,  and  the  great  drops 
of  water  fell  so  constantly  from  the  trees 
that  we  almost  imagined  ourselves  in 
an  eastern  forest  during  a  shower.  But 
there  was  something  pleasant  in  the 
sound  of  the  patter,  patter  of  those 
drops  falling  on  our  wagon-cover  from 
the  tops  of  the  trees.  The  road  soon 
became  muddy  with  pools  of  water 
standing  here  and  there,  while  the 
horses  were  as  wet  as  if  they  had  been 
out  in  an  actual  shower,  and  we  were 
so  wrapped  in  blankets  that  Ben 
thought  every  person  we  met  would 
think  we  were  traveling  mummies. 

But  presently  we  passed  out  from 
under  the  dripping  branches  of  oaks 
and  pines  into  a  broad,  well-beaten 
thoroughfare.  Here  we  were  at  a  loss 
to  know  whether  to   turn  to  the   right 


30  Camping  Out  in  California. 

or  to  the  left.  After  waiting  a  few  mo- 
ments in  suspense,  looking  first  in  one 
direction  and  then  in  the  other,  a  very 
little  old  women,  wrinkled  and  bowed, 
came  like  a  misty  shadow  out  of  the 
darkness  of  the  fog. 

As  she  came  near,  the  driver  said, 
''Madam,  where  does  this  road  lead  to?" 

''San-freen-cees-ko,"    was   the  reply. 

''Where  is  Mendocino  City?" 

"Turn  to  de  right,  and  you  are  right 
dere,"  and  she  disappeared  in  the  mist 
on  the  other  side. 

Turning  to  the  right  we  went  but  a 
few  rods  before  we  came  to  the  bridge 
which  spans  the  Albion  river.  At  this 
point  it  is  a  large,  beautiful  river,  clear 
and  deep,  called  by  some  of  the  people 
there  "Big  river."  A  vast  amount  of 
lumber  lay  along  the  shore. 

While  crossing  the  bridge,  we  beheld 
a  little  to  our  left  the  white  feathery 
foam  and  spra}^  that  was  thrown  a  few 
feet  in  the  air,  as  the  waves  rolled 
against  the  rocks,  while  all  beyond  was 


Mendocino  City.  31 

gloom  and  darkness.  The  ocean  had 
disappointed  us.  After  coming  so  far 
to  behold  her  majesty,  how  cruel!  She 
seemed  to  cover  her  fair  face  with  her 
own  thick  veil  and  refuse  to  be  seen. 

Mendocino  City  is  ''set  on  a  hill;" 
and  we  found  it  to  be  a  very  attractive 
and  flourishing  little  town,  containing 
the  usual  amount  of  business  tact  and 
energy  generally  found  in  California 
cities  and  villages.  It  is  the  central 
point  of  trade  for  the  lumbermen  of  an 
extensive  region  which  alone  is  capable 
of  assuring  permanent  growth.  Fish- 
ing is  quite  an  industry  here  and  will, 
no  doubt,  become  a  profitable  business. 
The  town  has  about  one  thousand  in- 
habitants, broad  streets  and  an  excellent 
class  of  buildings. 

Our  attention  was  especiall}'  attracted 
by  the  fuchsias  which  grew  in  great  pro- 
fusion and  beauty,  and  so  luxuriantly 
that  they  reached  the  eaves  of  the  houses, 
and  drooped  over  porches  and  fences; 
even  the  yards  of  the  vacant  houses 


32  Camping  Out  in  California. 

were  made  bright  with  their  presence 
as  they  bloomed  in  lonely  grace  and 
loveliness. 

The  next  we  noticed  was  the  Pres- 
byterian church,  a  large  neat  building 
and  the  only  Protestant  church  in  the 
town.  We  were  told  that  it  was  gen- 
erally filled  on  the  Sabbath  by  a  class 
of  moral,  intelligent  and  religious  peo- 
ple who  were  united  in  supporting  the 
gospel.  This  seemed  glorious  and  very 
different  from  most  small  towns  in  Cal- 
ifornia. I  know  one — about  the  same 
size — where  there  are  eight  churches, 
each  weak  and  barely  able  to  survive. 
When  the  church-going  people  of  a  com- 
munity are  divided  into  so  many  denom- 
inations, each  congregation  must  of 
necessity  be  small  and  feeble. 

We  spent  several  hours  in  this  cool 
little  city  of  the  coast,  not  attracting 
any  special  attention,  as  campers' 
wagons,  throughout  the  long  summer, 
are  daily  passing  and  repassing  through 
this  town,  which,  to  the  inhabitants  of 


Mendocino  City.  33 

a  vast  mountain  and  inland  region,  is 
the  chief  point  of  sea-side  attraction. 

Here  we  found  it  necessary  to  obtain 
another  supply  of  provisions,  for  the 
pure  mountain  air  and  the  cold  sea 
breeze  proved  to  be  wonderful  tonics. 
Never  once  in  all  the  time  we  were 
camping  did  I  hear  one  of  the  company 
complain  of  having  no  appetite. 

One  of  our  number  was  dyspeptic. 
Before  leaving  home  he  ate  but  twice 
a  day,  and  only  crackers,  broth,  rice,  or 
such  light  articles  of  diet  usually  rec- 
ommended to  invalids.  Now  he  ate 
three  hearty  meals  consisting  of  coffee, 
bacon,  hot  biscuits  and  wild  game,  be- 
sides vegetables  and  fruit. 

We  bought  some  delicious  honey  in 
the  comb,  and  as  it  was  considerable 
trouble  to  pack  it  safely  away,  Eda 
volunteered  to  hold  it.  The  box  leaked, 
and  before  we  reached  our  camping 
ground  she  was  as  sw^eet  as  she  had 
been  blue  a  few  hours  before.  She 
took   the    laughter   and    joking  quite 


34  Camping  Out  in  California. 

cooll)^  and  said:  ''Now  if  I  hadn't 
washed  off  the  blue-herries  I  should 
have  been  pretty  good  sauce."  She  re- 
ceived immediate  assurances  that  she 
was  saucy  enough  as  it  was.  The  brac- 
ing air  put  fire  into  the  youthful  bloody 
and  as  they  had  started  out  for  a  good 
time  we  did  not  object  to  their  merri- 
ment. 

We  camped  near  a  pretty  little  cove 
and  went  to  bed  early,  for  a  ge_.tleman 
told  us  it  would  be  low  tide  about  six 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  a  good  time 
to  gather  abalones. 

The  roar  of  the  ocean  wind  and  the 
loud  and  continuous  booming  of  the 
waves  against  the  rocky  coast  were  so 
different  from  the  pleasant  music  of 
the  forest,  which  had  so  long  acted  as 
a  lullaby  in  soothing  us  to  rest,  that 
we  found  it  almost  impossible  to  sleep. 

While  lying  awake  listening  to  the 
"steady  beat  of  the  sad  sea  waves,"  we 
thought  of  Mrs.  Heman's  poem  : 


Mendocino  City.  35 

Thou  art  sounding  on,  thou  mighty  sea, 

Forever  and  the  same  ; 

The  ancient  rocks  still  cUng  to  thee, 

Whose  thunders  naught  can  tame  ; 

Oh !  many  a  glorious  voice  is  gone 

From  the  rich  bowers  of  earth, 

And  hushed  is  many  a  lovely  one 

Of  mournfulness,  or  mirth  ; 

But  thou  art  swelling  on,  thou  deep, 

Through  many  an  olden  clime. 

Thy  billowy  anthems  ne'er  to  sleep 

Until  the  close  of  time." 


CHAPTER  III. 

TREASURES  OF  THE  DEEP. 

Ill  the  morning  we  found  that  the 
ocean  had  not  lifted  her  veil,  but  we 
did  not  fret  about  that,  for  we  were 
determined  to  remain  at  the  coast  until 
we  could  have  a  good  view  of  the 
Pacific. 

We  did  not  wait  for  breakfast  but 
made  ready  to  go  hunting  abalones. 
When  the  gentleman  came  along  with 
an  iron  rod,  and  a  sack,  he  said  if  we 
would  go  with  him  he  would  show  us 
the  best  place  to  find  them.  He  led 
the  way  along  the  cliff  and  finally 
began  to  descend  an  almost  perpendicu- 
lar path.  It  looked  as  if  it  was  a  peril- 
ous undertaking,  but  the  boys  and  girls 
went  ahead  and  told  me  if  I  fell  I  could 
fall  on  them  so  I  would  be  all  right. 

For  some  distance  the  path  wound 


Treasures  of  the  Deep.  37 

under  trailing  vines,  so  dense  we  could 
not  part  them,  and  so  low  we  could  not 
stand  erect.  When  we  came  to  the 
ledge  we  found  crevices  in  it  which  en- 
abled us  to  cling  with  more  safety,  but 
it  was  so  damp  with  the  ocean  spray 
that  we  had  to  ''make  haste  slowly." 

The  rocks  left  bare  by  the  tide  were 
covered  with  sea-moss  and  weeds.  The 
gentleman  lifted  some  of  it  and  point- 
ing to  something  beneath  said,  ''That 
is  an  abalone."  We  had  never  seen 
an  abalone,  and  the  object  to  which  he 
called  our  attention  looked  to  us  like  a 
bulge  in  the  rock  covered  with  a  grey- 
ish looking  moss,  but  he  inserted  his 
rod  at  one  edge  and  in  a  moment  more 
it  fell  upon  the  sand.  Then  the  girls 
said,  ''Ugh!  who  could  eat  such  a  horrid 
black  thing  as  that?" 

The  boys  gathered  about  a  dozen, 
then  we  went  to  the  camp  to  have  our 
breakfast.  They  dug  the  abalone  out 
of  the  shells  and  trimmed  off  the  out- 
side until  it  could  hardlv   be    distin- 


38  Camping  Out  in  California. 

guished  from  a  peeled  white  turnip; 
then  it  had  to  be  sliced  and  beaten 
like  a  piece  of  tough  steak,  and  fried  in 
hot  lard.  The  children  liked  them 
very  well,  but  we  never  ate  anything 
that  had  the  least  resemblance  in  taste 
to  an  abalone. 

The  shells  in  their  natural  state  are 
very  pretty.  The  outside  is  a  dark 
red,  blue  and  grey  tint,  while  the  inside 
reflects  the  bright  colors  of  the  rainbow. 
After  they  are  treated  with  a  chemical 
preparation,  and  polished,  they  are  the 
most  beautiful  shells  we  have  ever 
seen. 

After  breakfast  we  hastened  to  the 
beach,  The  young  folks  had  made 
plans  for  having  a  fine  time  bathing 
in  the  sea,  but  the  change  from  the 
heat  of  the  valley  was  so  great  that  we 
could  scarcely  keep  comfortable  with 
our  winter  flannels  on,  so  there  was  no 
temptation  to  try  a  sea  bath. 

But  we  clambered  over  the  rocks  and 
examined  the  treasures   of  the   deep. 


Treasures  of  the  Deep.  39 

We  found  clinging  tightl}^  to  the  rocks 
with  its  dozens  of  suckers,  the  star-fish 
or  five-fingers.  The  name  sea-star  is 
sometimes  applied  to  it  from  its  shape, 
and  we  thought  while  examining  them 
that  truly  the  stars  of  the  ocean  were 
more  of  a  curiosity  than  the  stars  of 
the  heavens,  because  these  stars  have 
life  while  the  others  have  none.  It  is 
said  that  if  some  of  the  rays  or  fingers 
were  cut  off  others  would  be  formed  to 
take  their  places,  or  if  one  were  cut  in 
two  and  put  back  in  the  water  each 
piece  would  grow  and  form  a  star-fish. 
It  is  also  said  that  if  the  eggs  which  are 
attached  to  the  under  side  should  be 
moved  a  short  distance  the  fish  would 
crawl  to  them  and  gather  them  under 
her  again.  Looking  at  a  star-fish  it 
was  hard  to  believe  there  could  be  so 
much  mother-love  existing  in  it.  We 
found  them  of  all  sizes,  from  the  baby 
star,  as  Harry  called  it,  to  a  large  one 
which  measured  ten  inches  from  one 
point  to  another. 


40  Camping  Out  in  California. 

In  England  they  are  called  Devil's 
fingers,  and  people  are  afraid  to  touch 
them  for  fear  of  being  poisoned.  But 
the  boys  gathered  quite  a  number  of 
each  color  to  take  home.  We  also 
found  the  sea  urchin,  or  sea  hedgehog 
as  they  are  sometimes  called.  They 
are  a  great  curiosity  with  their  hun- 
dreds of  dark  red  spines  bristling  in 
every  direction.  We  found  their  shells 
after  the  spines  had  been  worn  off  by 
the  rolling  waves;  then  they  are  called 
sea  eggs.  They  were  of  different  sizes 
and  were  ornamented  with  regular  rows 
of  tiny  buttons  or  knobs,  varying  in  size 
from  the  point  to  the  head  of  a  large 
pin. 

There  were  ugly  looking  crabs  of  all 
sizes  crawling  in  every  direction  among 
the  rocks.  Harry  was  especially  in- 
terested in  them,  and  had  great  fun  in 
making  them  run  backwards  and  side- 
ways, until  one  nipped  his  finger  and 
then  the  rest  of  us  had  the  fun. 

Ben  had  wandered  out  some  distance 


Treasures  of  the  Deep.  41 

on  the  rocks,  when  he  called  excitedly 
for  us  to  come  and  see  his  flowers.  He 
had  found  the  lovely  sea  anemones. 
In  the  water  their  bright  tinted  petals 
were  gently  moving  as  flower  petals 
move  in  a  breeze,  so  they  looked  like 
real  living  flowers.  They  were  of  sev- 
eral different  colors  and  some  were 
reallv  beautiful,  and  when  we  went  to 
touch  them  we  found  they  possessed 
more  life  than  ordinary  garden  flowers 
for  they  closed  instantly.  We  dis- 
covered the  gorgonia  or  sea  fan  and 
many  different  varieties  of  sea  mosses 
and  weeds. 

When  the  tide  was  in  so  we  could 
not  go  down  the  cliffs  to  the  rocks  we 
visited  the  little  sheltered  cove,  where 
we  never  tired  of  watching  the  billows 
as  they  came  gently  gliding  up  to  the 
beach,  one  after  the  other  like  children 
at  play. 

We  found  a  species  of  kelp  with  a 
turnip-shaped  bulb,  and  a  root  from 
one  to  twenty  feet  long.     The  boys  con- 


42  Camping  Out  in  California. 

sidered  them  a  good  substitute  for 
whips  and  had  a  lively  time  chasing 
each  other  up  and  down  the  beach. 
There  was  quite  a  variety  of  shells,  and 
the  girls  gathered  more  than  we  had 
room  to  carry. 

The  fog  still  hid  the  ocean  from  view 
and  we  concluded  to  go  farther  up  the 
coast,  ''Seeking  new  worlds  to  conquer," 
Will  said,  so  we  ''folded  our  tents  like 
the  Arabs,"  but  not  silently,  for  that 
was  impossible  with  our  merry  crowd. 

We  were  soon  moving  slowly  along 
the  coast  road,  winding  first  to  the 
right  and  then  to  the  left,  now  climb- 
ing a  sharp  hill  and  then  descending  to 
the  valley,  while  the  dark,  cold  and 
heavy  mist  limited  our  view  of  the 
surrounding  country. 

After  going  down  a  long  but  smooth 
grade  we  came  to  a  beautiful  stream 
which  was  spanned  by  a  rickety  and 
dangerous  looking  bridge.  Above  the 
bridge  was  a  deep  mill-pond  into  which 
massive  redwood  logs  were  leaping  one 


Treasures  of  the  Beep.  43 

after  another.  These  bulky  logs  were 
sent  iiito  a  chute  down  a  steep  hill 
and  really  seemed  like  living  creatures 
plunging  into  the  pond,  dashing  the 
water  into  a  spray  and  sending  it  fly- 
ing several  feet  in  the  air.  Sometimes 
orie  of  these  swiftly  flying  logs  would 
spring  on  the  back  of  its  fellow,  and 
with  a  roar  and  a  bound  and  a  strug- 
gle for  the  ascendency  they  would  settle 
down  half  buried  in  the  water,  then 
quietly  swim  side  by  side  toward  the 
other  shore. 

By  the  side  of  the  pond  stood  a  large 
m.ill,  in  and  around  which  a  great 
number  of  men  were  at  work.  We 
yielded  to  the  wish  of  the  young  peo- 
ple, and  entered  the  building,  which 
seemed  like  a  busy  hive  of  industry 
and  wealth. 

The  gentlemen  were  very  kind  and 
explained  some  of  the  machinery, 
which  was  altogether  new  to  us. 

We  gazed  with  amazement  upon  the 
roaring,    whirling,    angry     saws   with 


44  Camping  Out  in  California. 

teeth  stronger  and  sharper  than  those 
of  a  lion,  as  they  seemed  to  march 
through  the  sohd  logs  (one  above  and 
the  other  below),  splitting  the  thick 
sound-hearted  wood  into  planks,  boards, 
and  other  lumber  ready  for  the  me- 
chanic. We  were  told  that  single  trees 
had  been  sawed  into  eighty  thousand 
feet  of  lumber. 

One  man  was  busy  removing  the 
refuse  lumber  with  a  hand  car  which 
ran  on  a  track  to  the  end  of  a  bridge  or 
scaffold,  a  short  distance  from  the  mill, 
where  he  dumped  it  off  into  a  roaring 
fire  which  burned  continually.  It 
seemed  too  bad  to  burn  up  such  quan- 
tities of  lumber  which  if  on  the  plains 
would  be  valuable  for  barns,  sheds,  and 
fences,  but  the  man  said  there  was  no 
other  way  of  getting  rid  of  it. 

On  either  side'  of  the  stream  were 
good  houses,  which,  with  a  neat  school 
house  and  church,  made  a  very  pleas- 
ant village. 

Passing  along  northward,  we  came 


Treasures  of  the  Deep.  45 

to  the  town  of  Noyo,  Avhere  we  imme- 
diately laid  in  another  supply  of  pro- 
visions, after  which  we  endeavored  to 
find  a  camping  place,  where  we  in- 
tended to  remain  a  few  days. 

But  in  this  Ave  found  much  difficulty. 
As  we  passed  along,  one  of  our  party 
went  to  several  houses  making  inquiries 
as  to  where  we  could  pitch  our  tent,  but 
without  success.  Some  of  the  people 
were  deaf,  some  were  dumb  or  fright- 
ened, and  others,  judging  from  their 
looks  and  actions,  were  very  unfriendly 
and  inclined  to  look  upon  us  as  high- 
waymen, tramps  or  spies. 

The  yards  and  fields  were  enclosed 
by  high  board  fences  on  which  were 
notices  warning  all  persons  to  keep  out 
of  the  enclosure,  threatening  the  full 
penalties  of  the  law  to  trespassers. 

At  last,  quite  disgusted  with  the  place 
and  people,  we  drove  beyond  the  town 
and  found  a  quiet  spot  among  the 
trees  beside  the  road  where  a  pile  of 
stones  and  ashes  showed  us  that  other 


46  Camping  Out  in  California. 

campers  had  ventured  to  stop,  so  we 
pitched  our  tent  without  asking  per- 
mission. 

But  we  found  that  if  the  human  in- 
habitants were  inhospitable,  so  were  the 
other  dwellers  in  the  land.  They  gath- 
ered around  us  with  songs  of  welcome, 
but  instantly  demanded  tribute  for  our 
presence  among  them.  ''Oh  dear!  mos- 
quitoes!" exclaimed  one  and  another, 
and  in  a  moment  was  heard  the  falling 
of  hands,  and  exclamations  of  disap- 
pointment, when  it  was  found  that 
although  a  red  spot  was  left  where  the 
blow  fell,  the  savage  tormenter  had 
escaped  unharmed. 

We  had  expected  to  find  poisonous 
insects  and  reptiles  and  had  taken  an- 
tidotes with  us,  but  this  was  our  first 
annoyance,and  by  keeping  on  the  smoky 
side  of  the  fire  we  managed  to  finish 
our  supper  and  prepare  for  bed.  We 
built  a  fire  near  the  door  of  the  tent 
and  had  a  good  night's  rest,  despite  the 
protests  of  our  musical  visitors.     But 


Treasures  of  the  Beep.  47 

the  poor  boys,  who  always  slept  in  the 
wagon,  showed  unmistakable  signs  of 
a  warfare. 

The  next  morning  the  sun  was  shin- 
ing brightly,  but  we  were  out  of  sight 
of  the  ocean,  and  the  girls  prepared 
breakfast  in  a  hurry,  fearing  they  would 
not  have  a  good  look  at  the  Pacific  be- 
fore the  fog  came  down  again. 

A  gentleman  told  us  that  the  road 
up  the  coast  wound  along  a  high  cliff, 
where,  if  we  should  be  unfortunate 
enough  to  go  off,  we  would  fall  about 
five  hundred  feet  into  the  ocean  beneath, 
so,  when  we  were  ready  to  start  once 
more,  we  took  a  vote  to  decide  which 
way  to  go,  three  voting  to  go  across  the 
mountains  into  Humboldt  County  and 
five  voting  to  go  down  the  coast. 

As  we  were  all  Presbyterians,  the 
minority  yielded  without  a  murmur, 
and  we  turned  and  journeyed  south- 
ward, passing  through  Novo  as  quickly 
as  possible,  having  no  desire  for  fur- 
ther acquaintance. 


48  Camping  Out  in  California. 

We  soon  reached  a  point  where  right 
before  us,  bathed  in  the  splendor  of  the 
morning  sunlight,  lay  the  vast  and 
mighty  ocean.  The  girls  could  scarcely 
find  adjectives  enough  to  express  their 
delight  and  admiration  of  the  glorious 
scene — and  I  really  think  the  boys  used 
about  as  many  adjectives  as  the  girls 
— but  who  could  w^onder.  They  were 
watching  for  the  first  time  the  restless 
rolling  billows  of  the  vast  and  mighty 
ocean,  and  words  cannot  express  our 
feelings '  of  awe  and  admiration  as  we 
found  ourselves  repeating  with  rever- 
ence and  solemnity  Bryant's  '^Hymn 
to  the  Sea:" 

"The  sea  is  mighty,  but  a  mightier  sways 
His  restless  billows,  Thou  whose  hands  have  scooped 
His  boundless  gulfs,  9,nd  built  his  shores.  Thy  breath 
That  moved  in  the  beginning  o'er  his  face, 
Moves  o'er  it  evermore." 

The  grandeur  of  the  mountain  forests 
oh  our  left,  and  the  majestic  sublimity 
of  the  ocean  on  our  right,  seemed  to 
join  in  a  perpetual  hymn  of  praise,  lift- 


Treasures  of  the  Deep.  49 

ing  our  hearts  nearer  the  Creator  of  all. 
Far  out  from  the.  shore  Avere  huge  rocks 
over  which  the  waves  dashed  almost 
continviously.  When  Harry  noticed 
them, he  cried  out,  "Oh,  see  the  whales! 
Look  quick,  their  backs  are  coming  out 
of  the  water !"  and  it  looked  so  real,  that 
he  still  talks  about  the  whales  w^e  saw 
playing  in  the  ocean. 

Away  in  the  distance,  we  could  see 
the  white-winged  ships  moving  swiftly 
and  majestically  over  the  billows,  and 
we  wondered  if  the  happy  hearted  pas- 
sengers and  sailors  on  those  stately 
vessels  Avould  safely  reach  their  homes, 
or  if  they  would  sink 

"Into  the  depths  with  pitying  groan 

Without  a  grave,  unknelled,  nncoffined  and  unknown," 

while  loving  friends  would  Avait  long 
and  anxiously  until  weary  and  heart- 
sick, they  could  nevermore  hear  the 
sound  of  the  sad  sea  waves  without  a 
shudder. 

All  along  the  cliff  we  noticed  that 
the  pines  were  very  different  from  those 


50  Camping  Out  in  California. 

we  had  passed  in  the  seclusion  of  the 
forest.  Here,  instead  of  being  tall  and 
massive  and  symetrical,  we  found  them 
stunted,  dwarfed  and  gnarled.  Contin- 
ually shaken  and  beaten  by  the  mighty 
ocean  wind,  they  leaned  toward  the 
mountains,  and  with  their  branches  all 
extending  in  the  same  direction,  they 
seemed  to  implore  assistance  from  their 
sheltered  and  more  favored  brethren. 
The  scrubby,  woeful  looking  trees 
brought  to  mind  the  stories  we  had 
read  of  the  innocent  country  lads  and 
lassies,  who,  tempted  from  their  quiet 
and  peaceful  homes  by  the  attractions 
of  a  city  life,  had  been  buffeted  by  the 
allies  of  the  evil  one,  and  had  dwarfed 
and  blighted  until  their  sin-sick  souls 
were  fain  to  cry  out  for  the  joys  and 
purities  of  their  country  homes. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

HUNTING   A   WHALE. 

The  report  reached  us  that  a  large 
whale  had  been  cast  ashore  between 
Noyo  and  Mendocino  City.  The  shore 
at  this  point  was  a  long  distance  from 
the  road.  We  drove  through  a  gate 
and  then  along  a  rough  and  narrow 
lane  a  distance  of  perhaps  a  half  a  mile, 
when  we  came  into  a  pasture  and  found 
ourselves  among  rocks,  stumps,  rotten 
logs,  and  dead  trees. 

Unable  to  proceed  farther  with  the 
wagon  we  tied  our  horse  i  t  o  an  old 
dilapidated  barn.  We  felt  a  little  timid 
in  doing  this  as  there  was  a  house  in 
an  adjoining  field  out  of  which  rushed 
several  men,  as  many  women,  and  twice 
as  many  children  who  stood  in  a  group 
and  looked  intently  towards  us  but  said 
nothing. 


52  Camping  Out  in  California. 

After  feeding  the  horses  we  started 
out  in  search  for  the  whale. 

We  climbed  over  old  logs  and  hedges^ 
and  followed  meandering  cow-paths 
until  we  reached  the  ocean  bank  and 
saM^  the  white  feathery  foam  beneath 
our  feet.  We  stood  there  and  watched 
the  tireless  billows  beating  the  unyield- 
ing rocks,  until  we  were  well  sprinkled 
with  the  spray  and  nearly  deafened  by 
the  ocean  thunder.  We  then  started 
dowm  along  the  cliff,  liunting  for  a 
whale. 

Occasionally  we  w^ould  stop  a  moment 
to  look  doAvn  on  the  water  fifty  feet 
below  us.  Such  a  heaving,  churning^ 
splashing,  perpetual  motion.  Now  fall- 
ing away,  leaving  the  bare  rocks  spotted 
with  shells  and  moss,  now  rising  with 
a  fantastic  whirl  as  if  determined  to 
overleap  all  bounds,  while  we  with  dizzy 
heads  start  back,  as  the  mighty  volume 
settles  down  and  glides  back  into  the 
deep. 

After  walking  about  two  miles  from 


Hunting  a  Whale.  53 

where  Ave  left  our  team,  we  saw  some- 
thing that  resembled  a  boat  turned 
bottom  side  up  but  soon  discovered  that 
it  was  the  big  fish. 

Carefully  climbing  down  the  cliff  we 
stood  by  the  side  of  the  monster.  It 
had  probably  died  of  old  age  and  the 
odor  could  not  be  likened  to  the  ^^sweet 
scented  gales  from  Araby  the  blest." 

After  a  moment  of  silent  wonder 
Linnie  exclaimed,  ''Did  you  ever?" 

Eda  made  reply,  ''No  I  never,  hardly 
ever." 

Harry  gazed  in  such  quiet  astonish- 
ment that  we  listened  for  his  first 
words.  Drawing  a  long  breath  he  said, 
''Well,  I  should  think  a  whale  could 
swallow  Jonah  easy  enough." 

How  little  and  insignificant  we  felt 
as  we  stood  by  this  ponderous  creature 
in  which  the  Almighty  had  put  life. 
We  were  told  that  it  was  about  eighty 
feet  long  and  fourteen  feet  across.  Some 
one  had  used  a  ladder  to  climb  on  its 
back  and  Ben  wanted  to  go  up,  but 


54  Camping  Out  in  California. 

as  it  was  kept  in  motion  by  the  waves 
rolling  against  it  we  would  not  con- 
sent for  him  to  make  the  dangerous 
experiment.  We  were  much  interested 
in  this  vessel  which  for  many  years 
had  run  on  the  waters  of  the  North 
Pacific  without  pilot,  captain,  or  crew, 
strong  as  a  locomotive,  and  capable  of 
leaving  the  swiftest  steamer  behind, 
but  finally  cast  away  on  the  rocks  of 
Mendocino  shore. 

The  boys  made  an  attempt  to  pluck 
some  of  the  barnacles  from  the  side  of 
the  whale  to  keep  for  souvenirs,  but 
they  were  too  slow  and  a  large  wave 
gave  them  a  cold  bath,  which  completely 
quenched  their  whaling  curiosity. 

We  now  retraced  our  steps  and  found 
our  horses  waiting  patiently  and  all 
ready  to  travel  on.  Passing  through 
the  narrow  lane  we  were  soon  on  the 
broad  highway. 

Early  in  the  afternoon  we  reached 
Mendocino  City  again  and  pitched  our 
tent  on  a  plot  of  grass  at  the  foot  of  a 


Hunting  a  \Miale.  55 

hill  covered  with  green  trees,  and  near 
a  flowing  spring.  From  here  we'could 
see  the  waves  playing  over  the  rocks, 
the  spray  glittering  in  the  sunlight, 
and  the  vessels  far  out  on  the  deep  blue 
billows. 

We  crossed  the  bridge  and  walked 
along  the  bank  of  Big  River  which  is 
clear  as  crystal  and  has  a  strong  cur- 
rent. Looking  down  into  the  water 
we  saw  schools  of  fish  varying  in  dimen- 
sions, forms  and  species. 

Passing  through  the  little  village  as 
the  sun  was  going  down  we  noticed 
many  young  people  out  for  an  evening 
walk.  The}^  seemed  to  be  full  of  life 
and  happiness.  Not  a  delicate  or  sickly 
person  did  we  meet. 

Here  the  river,  fresh  and  pure,  coming 
from  the  distant  hills  meets  the  briny 
wave  as  the  tide  marches  up  the  stream. 
Here  the  mountain  atmosphere  coming 
down  from  aloft  meets  and  mingles 
with  the  cold  breath  of  the  ocean,  and 
as  nature  loves  variety,  the  wonderful 


56  Camping  Out  in  California. 

commingling  of  salt  and  fresh  water, 
sea  and  mountain  air  makes  Mendocino 
a  very  healthy  place. 

Eeturning  to  our  camp  the  boys 
made  a  roaring  fire  near  which  the 
mosquitoes  did  not  dare  approach, 
although  they  made  music  for  us  only 
a  little  in  the  distance.  While  sitting 
there  and  talking  over  the  events  of 
the  day  we  saw  the  dim  form  of  some 
one  coming  ''out  of  the  darkness  into 
the  light,"  and  soon  recognized  an  old 
acquaintance,  who  joined  our  circle 
around  the  cheerful  camp-fire  and  we 
spent  a  very  pleasant  evening. 

Early  the  next  morning  we  heard 
Will  exclaim,  ''Oh,  the  fog,  the  fog,'^ 
and  as  we  opened  our  eyes  we  saw  the 
dark  mist  creeping  as  silently  as  some 
evil  spirit  into  our  tent. 

After  breakfast  we  started  down  the 
coast.  The  air  was  very  chilling  but 
we  were  not  so  sensitive  to  the  cold  as 
we  were  when  we  first  came  from  the 
valley.     For  some  time  the  fog  was  so 


Hunting  a  Whale.  57 

dense  we  could  see  only  a  few  feet  in 
front  of  the  horses,  but  about  nine 
o'clock  it  began  to  vanish  and  before 
noon  the  sun  was  shining  beautifully 
upon  the  face  of  the  ^ 'great  deep." 

Occasionally  a  streak  of  fog  coming 
from  the  vast  world  of  water  and  shin- 
ing in  the  glowing  sunlight  reminded 
us  of  an  old-fashioned  snow  storm. 

We  saw  several  such  aerial  streams 
flowing  over  the  tops  of  the  trees,  and 
up  the  sides  of  the  mountain,  so  cool, 
so  invigorating  and  picturesque. 

From  Navarro  Ridge  ten  miles  south 
of  Mendocino  City  we  could  Took  down 
about  four  hundred  feet  on  the  flourish- 
ing village  of  Navarro  Mills  with  nearly 
five  hundred  inhabitants. 

This  town  is  at  the  mouth  of  Navarro 
River  and  is  completely  walled  by  the 
strong  bulwarks  of  nature. 

On  the  east  the  river  like  a  silver 
serpent  glides  from  under  the  mountain 
forest.  On  tlie  north  and  south  the 
towering  hills  which  rise  almost  per- 


58  Camping  Out  in  California. 

pendicularly  remind  one  of  the  walls 
of  some  ancient  city  adorned  with  pic* 
tures  of  birds  and  flowers. 

On  the  west  the  dark  waves,  like 
living  creatures  from  some  distant  isle 
of  the  sea,  are  daily  and  nightly  rising, 
one  after  another,  and  throwing  their 
wings,  which,  when  unfolded,  turn  into 
snowy  whiteness,  over  the  boulders  that 
lie  along  the  shore. 

The  village  consists  of  a  large  mill^ 
neat  white  cottages,  a  general  store, 
shops  of  various  kinds,  and  a  town  hall 
with  a  lodge  room  for  the  I.  O.  G.  T., 
and  a  large  and  valuable  library  for  the 
benefit  of  the  employes. 

The  mill  company  own  the  whole 
town  together  with  a  region  of  timber 
land  running  several  miles  from  the 
coast  and  lying  on  both  sides  of  the 
river.  They  also  have  a  railroad  run- 
ning from  the  mill  to  the  lumber  camp, 
so  that  instead  of  harnessing  a  team  of 
horses,  they  hitch  up  an  engine,  drive 
out  seven  miles  in  the  mountains  and 


Hunting  a  Whale.  59 

haul  in  ten  or  fifteen  thousand  feet  at 
a  load. 

We  were  told  that  the  mill  sawed 
from  fifty  to  sixt}^  thousand  feet  of 
lumber  each  day.  The  company  is  said 
to  be  vastly  rich,  and  very  honorable  in 
all  their  transactions.  They  own  their 
own  vessels  and  ship  their  own  lumber, 
employing  about  five  hundred  men  pay- 
ing the  most  liberal  wages. 

From  the  beach  we  could  see  the 
Point  Arena  Light-house  twenty  miles 
away,  and  the  ocean  far  beyond. 

It  was  late  in  the  afternoon  when  a 
bank  of  fog  began  to  lift  from  the  very 
horizon  far  in  the  distance,  and  the 
sun  shining  from  tiiC  dark  cloud  formed 
a  scene  which  would  have  delighted 
the  eyes  of  an  artist. 

The  ocean  of  water  seemed  to  change 
into  an  ocean  of  heaven's  own  glory. 
Such  flashing  emblazonry,  such  daz- 
zling brilliancy,  svich  dancing  of  colors. 
Indeed,  we  were  reminded  of  a  ''sea  of 
glass  mingled  with  fire." 


60  Camping  Out  in  California. 

And  then  we  could  imagine  as  we 
gazed  in  almost  breathless  silence,  be- 
yond the  dark  watery  plains  that  the 
New  Jerusalem  had  descended  with  all 
its  intermingling  of  ruby,  and  emerald, 
and  sapphire. 

And  as  we  continued  our  ardent  gaze 
until  our  eyes  were  almost  blinded,  we 
found  ourselves  exclaiming, 

''O  Beulah  Land,  sweet  Beulali  Land, 
As  on  thy  highest  mount  I  stand, 

I  look  away  across  the  sea, 

Where  mansions  are  prepared  for  me, 

And  view  the  shining  glory  shore, 
My  heaven,  my  home,  for  evermore." 

Along  the  coast  road  we  crossed  sev- 
eral streams  that  were  deep  down  in 
narrow  gulches.  Some  of  these  streams 
We  crossed  on  bridges  so  high  above 
the  water  that  we  found  ourselves 
among  the  topmost  branches  of  very 
tall  trees,  and  it  made  our  heads  dizzy 
as  we  attempted  to  look  down  upon  the 
little  silver  brooks  that  were  silently 
gliding  on  to  mingle  with  the  mighty 
ocean. 


Hunting  a  Whale.  61 

Several  of  the  bridges  were  old,  shat- 
tered  and  narrow,  Avith  no  railing, 
and  would  tremble  beneath  the  horses' 
feet  and  the  rolling  wheels.  And 
there  were  a  number  of  holes  through 
the  plank  that  the  horses  were  liable 
to  step,  into  and  receive  serious  in- 
juries. 

We  went  down  a  steep  hill  at  the 
foot  of  which  was  one  of  these  old 
bridges,  our  horses  were  on  a  lively 
trot  and  one  stepped  through  a  hole 
and  fell.  We  thought  his  leg  was 
broken,  but  fortunately  it  was  not, 
although  he  was  very  lame  for  several 
days. 

Along  this  road  we  found  some  of 
the  hills  to  be  very  steep  and  were 
necessarily  compelled  to  alight  from 
the  wagon  and  practice  pedestrianism 
on  the  ascending  grade.  This,  how- 
ever, was  not  unpleasant,  as  we  needed 
exercise  and  it  afforded  us  the  pleasure 
of  examining  the  rocks  that  projected 
from    the    banks    and    of    gathering 


62  Camping  Out  in  California. 

Various  kinds  of  mosses,  ferns  and  wild 
flowers.  In  this  Golden  State,  Flora, 
with  bountiful  hand  has  everywhere 
scattered  her  beautiful  treasures,  from 
the  tiny  alfillarea  to  the  fragrant  mount- 
ain lilac  and  waxy  blossomed  madrone, 
so  we  met  new  and  sweet  surprises  all 
the  way. 

We  had  a  delightful  view  of  the 
ocean  from  the  Point  Arena  Light- 
house, which  is  considered  one  of  the 
best  on  this  coast,  standing  on  the  bank 
and  rising  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
above  the  water,  its  red  light  can  be 
seen  from  Mendocino  City,  a  distance 
of  thirty-five  miles. 

As  we  climbed  the  winding  stairs 
within  the  tower,  stopping  occasion- 
ally to  rest,  and  look  out  of  the  little 
windows,  we  could  feel  the  tall  and 
slender  building  tremble  as  the  wind 
was  blowing  very  hard,  and  we  were 
inclined  to  be  a  little  nervous.  But 
when  at  the  top  viewing  the  wonderful 
and  voluminous  lamp  with  its  power- 


Hunting  a  Whale.  63 

ful  lens — powerful  yet  so  delicate  and 
sensitive  that  it  could  not  endure  the 
touch  of  Harry's  inquisitive  fingers, — - 
and  the  white-capped  waves  of  the  an- 
gary ocean,  we  were  fully  repaid  for  our 
toil  and  trouble.  From  those  lofty 
windows  the  radiant  light  flashes  far 
out  over  the  dark  and  stormy  sea,  and 
the  heart  of  many  a  sailor  is  cheered  by 
its  dazzling  brightness.  This  light- 
house stands  in  a  conspicuous  place 
on  a  dangerous  point  that  projects 
several  miles  into  the  ocean,  and  with 
the  billows  on  three  sides  it  stands  a 
faithful  sentinel  nightly  warning  the 
sailors  away  from  danger  and  death; 
yet  it  has  been  only  a  few  years  since 
a  steamer  was  wrecked  on  the  reef 
close  by  this  signal  light. 

While  standing  there  so  far  above 
the  world  of  sin  and  care,  and  looking 
out  upon  the  vast  and  mighty  deep 
toward  the  north,  south  and  west  we 
could  readily  perceive  the  important 
position  which  it  occupied. 


64  Camping  Out  in  California. 

The  keeper  told  us  that  the  light 
must  be  guarded,  kept  in  order,  and 
watched  with  care  that  it  might  shine 
brightly  for  the  benefit  of  those  who 
travel  the  highway  of  the  Pacific.  If 
the  light  should  go  out  it  would  mean 
destruction  of  life  and  property.  But 
the  Christian  who  is  placed  as  a  light- 
house upon  the  dark  and  dangerous 
shore  of  time,  often  allows  his  light 
to  burn  dimly  and  sometimes  to  go 
out. 

Our  Savior  said,  ''  Let  your  light 
shine  before  men  that  others  seeing 
your  good  works  may  glorify  your 
Father  which  is  in  heaven."  And 
when  neglecting  his  orders  the  Chris- 
tian lets  the  light  in  his  heart  go  out, 
the  effects  are  more  deplorable  and 
disastrous  than  when  the  radiance  dis- 
appears from  the  light-house  tower.  ^'If 
the  light  that  is  in  you  be  darkness,  how 
great  is  that  darkness?" 

After  coming  down  from  the  dizzy 
height  and  placing  our  feet  once  more 


Hunting  a  Whale.  65 

upon  the  solid  earth,  we  felt  that  an 
impression  had  been  made  upon  our 
minds  that  would  linger  there  for  a 
long  time. 

Now  the  keeper  takes  us  several 
rods  from  the  bank  and  shows  us  a 
large  hole,  (quite  a  number  of  feet 
across),  in  the  earth  which  is  sur- 
rounded by  dry,  level  and  fertile  land. 
As  we  look  down  into  this  opening  we 
behold  the  water  rising  and  falling  as 
the  waves  roll  in  and  out.  The  ocean 
had  worn  away  the  sub-soil  and  grad- 
ually crept  in  beneath  the  bank  until 
this  opening  was  made  by  the  ground 
dropping  into  the  water. 

While  standing  there  we  realized  for 
the  first  time  that  the  sea  was  beneath 
our  feet  even  while  we  w^ere  standing 
on  green  grass  and  in  the  midst  of 
blooming  trees  and  flowers. 

In  several  places  we  noticed  small 
pieces  of  land  ranging  from  one  or  two 
rods  square  to  a  half  acre  or  more 
standing  with  perpendicular  walls  fif- 


66  Camping  Out  in  California. 

teen  or  twenty  feet  above  the  water 
which  surrounded  them  on  all  sides. 
And  thus  North  America,  ''The  land 
of  the  free  and  the  home  of  the  brave," 
is  actually  wearing  out.  The  hand  of 
angry  Neptune  is  stealing  our  land  from 
beneath  our  feet. 

And  if  this  powerful  invader  contin- 
ues to  steal  one  inch  from  this  coast 
every  year,  in  less  than  two  hundred 
million  years  it  will  reach  the  Missis- 
sippi River.  And  in  the  meantime 
the  waves  of  the  Atlantic,  and  the 
Gulfs  of  Mexico  and  St.  Lawrence  will 
grind  away  the  remainder  of  the  United 
States,  and  if  the  world  should  remain 
so  long  a  time  what  will  its  inhabitants 
do  for  land  to  cultivate? 

Perhaps  it  is  not  wise  or  best  at  the 
present  time  to  be  looking  so  far  into  this 
worldls  future.  One  blessed  assurance 
we  have,  God's  children  have  the  prom- 
ise of  a  home  which  not  even  a  mighty 
world  of  waters  can  destroy. 

As  we  traveled  through  this  region 


Hunting  a  \'\'hale.  67 

we  were  forcibly  impressed  with  the 
scarcity  of  Christian  workers;  the  un- 
belief and  opposition  to  the  Bible,  and 
the  indifference  and  lukewarmness  on 
the  part  of  those  who  professed  to  be 
followers  of  Christ. 

In  Point  Arena  there  were  two  min- 
isters, two  church  buildings  and  nine- 
teen church  members.  From  Point 
Arena  to  Ingrams,  a  distance  of  fifty 
miles,  there  was  not  a  Protestant 
church  of  any  denomination.  And  the 
whole  distance  was  settled  by  enter- 
prising farmers,  woolgrowers  and  lum- 
bermen. There  were  also  several  vil- 
lages containing  mills,  stores,  school- 
houses  and  saloons. 

How  sad  to  see  such  fields  unoc- 
cupied, while  in  some  small  railroad 
towns  there  are  a  dozen  ministers 
preaching  to  the  same  people,  and  in 
some  of  the  cities  a  still  larger  number 
are  waiting  for  a  call  to  some  wealthy 
or  desirable  field. 

We  were  told  that  the  road  down  the 


68  Camping  Out  in  California. 

coast  was  more  dangerous  and  difficult 
to  travel  than  any  we  had  passed  over^ 
so  we  concluded  to  leave  the  coast, 
and  for  a  few  days  try  the  mountains 
and  valleys  again.  After  passing 
through  a  beautiful  and  fertile  country 
we  found  ourselves  slowly  climbing  a 
steep  mountain.  The  road  was  narrow 
and  rough,  and  much  of  the  time  we 
were  compelled  to  walk. 

We  reached  the  summit  as  the  sun 
was  sinking  in  the  west,  and  a  more 
picturesque  scene  than  the  one  we  then 
beheld  is  seldom  spread  out  before  the 
eyes  of  humanity. 

We  seemed  to  be  standing  on  the 
dome  of  a  vast  cathedral  looking  down, 
far  down,  upon  an  extensive  emerald 
lake  glittering  with  the  jewels  of  a 
brighter  world. 

That  very  morning  we  gazed  out 
upon  the  dark  billows  of  the  broad 
and  deep  Pacific,  now  we  are  looking 
far  over  the  waves  of  leaves  and  feath- 
ery boughs,  which  are  gloriously  inter- 


Hunting  a  Whale.  69 

mingled  with  the  golden  waves  which 
flow  from  the  sinking  orb  of  da)^  Even 
our  horses,  though  tired  and  covered 
with  sweat  and  dust,  lift  their  heads 
and  seem  revived  at  a  sight  so  grand 
and  invigorating. 

For  several  evenings  we  had  listened 
to  the  heavy,  drum-like  music  of  the 
billows  lashing  the  rocks,  and  the 
shrill  voice  of  the  sea-fowl.  Now  as 
we  stand  far  above  ocean,  field  and 
forest,  we  listen  to  the  mountain  zephyr 
as  it  plays  so  softly  among  the  droop- 
ing branches,  while  far  beneath  us  and 
along  the  surface  of  what  still  appears 
like  a  richly  colored  lake  of  paradise, 
the  birds  with  wings  glistening  in  the 
sunlight  are  darting  and  sailing  in 
evening  sport,  and  the  rich  chorus  of 
their  voices,  like  sweet  notes  from  heav- 
en's orchestra,  arise  to  the  mountain 
height. 

While  standing  around  our  wagon 
feasting  our  eyes  on  the  surrounding 
glory,  the  mild  and    golden   radiance 


70  Camping  Out  in  California. 

vanished,  the  birds  disappeared  be- 
neath the  surface,  the  distant  mount- 
ains assumed  a  darker  hue,  and  we 
were  seriously  reminded  of  the  fact 
that  we  had  not  yet  reached  the  land 
where  there  shall  be  no  more  night. 

The  boys,  after  taking  the  harness 
from  the  horses,  turned  them  out  on  a 
plot  of  grass,  which,  although  some- 
what withered  and  parched  by  the 
sun,  was,  nevertheless,  very  nutritious 
and  afforded  our  burden-bearers  a 
rich  repast.  As  the  shadows  of  night 
gathered  around  us  we  pitched  our 
tent  in  the  light  of  our  blazing  camp- 
fire  and  after  we  had  fared  sumptu- 
ously on  bread,  fruit  and  wild-game, 
we  lay  down  to  rest  while  the  dying 
embers  still  glowed  in  front  of  our 
tent. 

Before  falling  asleep,  however,  we 
had  some  serious  thoughts  concerning 
the  wild  beasts  that  might  be  prowl- 
ing near,  as  we  had  seen  several  strange 
tracks  on  the  mountain  side. 


Hunting  a  Whale.  71 

And  that  we  should  have  startling 
thoughts  Avill  not  seem  strange  to  my 
readers  when  I  relate  a  little  of  our  ex- 
perience two  years  previous  to  this 
time.  We  were  rusticating  on  the 
summit  of  Elk  Mountain  in  a  little 
hrush  house  which  served  as  a  pro- 
tection from  the  sun  by  day  and  the 
wind  by  night.  Immediately  to  the 
north  of  our  temporary  dwelling-place 
was  Grizzly  canyon,  so  deep  and  dark 
that  w^e  could  not,  from  our  location, 
see  the  bottom.  It  was  said  to  have  re- 
ceived its  name  from  the  many  grizzly 
bears  that  had  been  seen  in  and  around 
it.  The  first  night  while  surrounded 
by  our  spicy  curtains,  we  heard  a 
crashing  in  the  brush  and  then  heavy 
footsteps.  At  first  we  thought  it  might 
be  a  horse,  but  as  it  passed  near  we 
imagined  we  heard  a  low  growl.  Next 
morning  we  discovered  tracks  w^hich 
measured  twelve  inches  across,  an  In- 
dian said  they  were  those  of  a  very 
large  grizzly  bear;  a  few  rods  from  our 


72  Camping  Out  in  California. 

little  booth  were  two  dead  sheep  that 
had  been  torn  to  pieces  during  the 
night.  They  belonged  to  a  gentleman 
who  kept  a  large  flock  on  the  mount- 
ain. He  said  Bruin  stole  a  number 
of  his  sheep  every  year.  We  did  not 
spend  another  night  in  that  frail  dwel- 
ling and  even  the  boys  were  afraid  to 
venture  down  into  Grizzly  canyon. 

As  we  lay  in  our  tent  thinking  for  a 
moment  of  that  powerful  denizen  of  the 
dark  mountain  gorge  that  made  us 
such  a  friendly  visit,  and  not  knowing 
but  members  of  the  same  family  might 
be  very  near,  we  felt  a  little  momentary 
disquietude. 

But  the  wind  changed  the  lofty  tree- 
tops  into  sweet  toned  instruments  of 
music  and  played  such  gentle  tunes 
that  we  could  almost  fancy  angels  were 
hovering  over  us,  now  soft  as  the 
harps  of  heaven,  now  rising  higher  as 
if  new  instruments  and  new  voices  were 
joining  the  chorus,  and  now  lulling  to 
a  mere  murmur  and  dying  away  among 


Hunting  a  Whale.  73 

the  branches  of  other  trees  in  the  dis- 
tance. Thus,  after  committing  our- 
selves to  the  care  of  Him  who  shields 
and  protects  his  children,  our  weary 
spirits  were  soothed  into  quiet  rest 
and  we  were  safely  folded  in  the  arms 
of  nature's  balmy  restorer. 


CHAPTER  V. 

SABBATH    ON   THE   MOUNTAIN. 

We  were  awakened  the  next  morn- 
ing by  the  happy  birds  that  were  send- 
ing forth  their  soft  silvery  notes  into 
the  pure  morning  air  that  hovered 
over  the  mountain's  brow.  It  was  the 
holy  Sabbath,  and  far  from  the  sound 
of  a  church  bell  we  arose  to  keep  the 
day  holy  unto  the  Lord. 

Although  we  were  not  blest  with  the 
opportunity  of  sitting  within  the  sanct- 
uary to  receive  instruction  from  the 
sacred  desk,  our  hearts  were  not  pained 
by  beholding  men,  women  and  chil- 
dren violating  the  Sabbath  of  the  Lord 
our  God. 

The  heavens  above  us,  and  the  earth 
beneath  us,  and  all  things  around  us 
were  quietly  resting.  It  indeed  seemed 
glorious  to  be  able  to  spend  a  Sabbath 


Sabbath  on  the  Mountain.  75 

where  we  could  look  around  upon  the 
handiwork  of  God  without  witnessing 
the  desecration  of  the  fourth  command- 
ment. 

But  how  humiliating  is  the  fact  that 
in  order  to  dwell  in  a  place  where  the 
Lord's  day  is  not  profaned  we  must 
find  some  secluded  spot  away  from  our 
own  brothers  and  sisters,  yes,  away 
from  the  very  creatures  who  were  made 
in  the  image  of  their  Divine  Maker, 
and  the  only  creatures  of  earth  to 
whom  is  given  that  power  and  exalted 
privilege  of  communing  with  the  omnip- 
otent Jehovah. 

Here,  exalted  above  the  lower  world, 
above  and  far  from  the  noisy  crowds 
who,  disregarding  the  commands  of 
Him  who  keeps  them  in  existence,  and 
holds  their  eternal  destiny  in  his  power 
are  not  afraid  to  use  the  day  which  He 
has  set  apart  to  be  kept  holy  in  seeking 
their  own  pleasure,  we  were  not 
ashamed  to  look  the  Holy  Sabbath 
squarely  in  the  face. 


76  Camping  Out  in  California. 

No  wonder  the  prophet  Jeremiah 
said,  ''Oh,  that  I  had  in  the  wilderness 
a  lodging  place,  that  I  might  leave  my 
people." 

We  never  realized  more  forcibly  the 
purity  and  glory  and  spiritual  beauty 
of  the  Christian  Sabbath  where  it  is 
untouched  by  the  guilt-stained  hand  of 
sinful  man. 

We  could  look  in  every  direction  far 
away  over  valleys,  rivers  and  plains 
without  having  our  vision  darkened  by 
the  workers  of  iniquity. 

We  could  listen  to  nature's  sweet  and 
perpetual  anthem  that  came  from  the 
stream  beneath,  the  birds  above,  and 
the  breezes  all  around  without  having 
our  ears  grated  upon  by  the  discord  of 
sinful  and  inharmonious  notes. 

And  although  we  could  see  the  effects 
of  sin  in  the  scarred  and  broken  rocks 
of  the  distant  towering  cliff,  the  gnarled 
and  twisted  trees,  the  fire-red  of  the 
poison-oak,  and  the  loathsome  weeds 
intermingled  with  the  grass  and  flow- 


Sabbath  on  the,  A/ountain.  77 

ers,  we  could  see  no  sin  outside  of  our 
own  unsanctified  hearts. 

We  spent  the  da}'  in  reading  God's 
word  and  in  prayer  and  quiet  medita- 
tion. And  as  the  evening  breeze  arose 
from  the  ocean  and  came  merrily  sing- 
ing through  the  branches  and  leaves,  we 
felt  to  mingle  our  voices  with  the  sweet 
refrain  in  the  use  of  the  precious  words : 

''Thine  earthy  Sabbath,  Lord,  we  love, 
But  there's  a  nobler  rest  above : 
To  which  our  longing  souls  aspire, 
With  ardent  pangs  of  strong  desire." 

As  the  setting  sun  was  smiling  upon 
the  barren  peak  and  the  wooded  vale, 
and  sending  his  piercing  arrows  through 
the  red-wood  drapery,  and  gorgeously 
coloring  the  little  clouds  that  sailed 
like  fairy  ships  upon  the  vast  ocean  of 
ether,  we  felt  that  we  were  standing  in 
the  midst  of  the  glory  of  the  omnipo- 
tent God.  And  like  Jacob  of  old  we 
exclaimed,  ''How  dreadful  is  this  place, 
this  is  none  other  than  the  house  of 
God,  this  is  the  gate  of  heaven." 


78  Camping  Out  in  California. 

If  a  Sabbath  on  the  mountain  top, 
above  the  commotion  and  turmoil  of 
the  world  is  so  glorious,  what  will  it  be 
in  the  land  where  sin  is  ever  unknown, 

''Where  congregations  ne'er  V)reak  up, 
And  Sabbaths  never  end." 

Where  nothing  can  enter  *'that  de- 
fileth  or  maketh  a  lie." 

When  the  sun  had  gone  down  and 
the  night  seemed  to  be  dropping  out  of 
the  glowing  day 

''And  the  last  beam  of  daylight, 
Shone  dim  in  the  west," 

We  buttoned  our  tent  and  retired, 
feeling  at  peace  with  God  and  all  the 
world. 

Early  next  morning  we  were  going 
down  the  other  side  of  the  mountain 
which  we  found  less  difficult  and  far 
more  pleasant  than  the  ascending 
grade,  so  it  is  all  through  life,  easy  to 
go  down  and  hard  to  go  up. 

We  had  gone  only  a  short  distance 
when  we  heard  happy  voices  merrily 
shouting,    singing  and   laughing,    and 


Sabbath  on  the  Mountain.  79 

in  a  few  moments  met  three  teams 
loaded  with  a  jovial  crowd  of  young 
people.  They  were  full  of  life  and  joy, 
and  saluted  us  with  pleasant  smiles 
and  friendly  greeting,  and  passed  on. 

"Like  as  a  plank  of  drift-wood, 

Tossed  on  the  watery  main, 
Another  plank  encounters, 

Meets,  touches,  parts  again  ; 
So  tossed  and  drifting  ever, 

On  life's  unresting  sea, 
We  meet,  and  greet,  and  sever, 

Parting  eternally. ' ' 

In  a  short  time  we  reached  the 
grove  in  which  they  spent  the  Sabbath. 
It  was  a  very  cool  and  pleasant  place. 
The  trees  were  trimmed  a  little  higher 
than  a  man's  head,  and  the  under- 
brush removed  and  comfortable  seats 
here  and  there,  and  a  table  on  which 
were  scraps  of  meat  and  crumbs  of 
bread  for  the  birds  and  squirrels,  and 
the  smoke  of  the  camp-fire  feebly  aris- 
ing from  the  earth.  On  one  of  the  firs 
was  nailed  aboard  on  which  was  printed 
in  large  letters,  "Happy  Camp."  ''Well 


80  Camping  Out  in  California. 

named,"  said  Linnie,  ''for  it  is  the  hap- 
piest looking  place  I  liave  yet  seen." 
Here  the  trees  seemed  to  be  alive  with 
birds  of  various  sizes  and  colors,  some 
very  tiny  creatures,  but  their  feathers 
were  bright  and  their  voices  sweet. 
Eacli  one  seemed  to  do  its  best  to  excel 
in  singing  louder  than  the  others.  The 
brook  was  not  silent,  but  kept  up  a 
low  harmonious  chant,  as  the  spark- 
ling water  whirled  around  a  rock  or 
poured  over  a  sunken  log. 

In  this  stream  we  noticed  several 
deep  pools  which  looked  as  though 
there  might  be  mountain  trout  at  the 
bottom,  and  as  there  were  fish  bones 
around  the  public  table  of  this  forest 
mansion,  the  boys  thought  it  a  good 
place  to  try  our  luck  at  fishing,  but  we 
deemed  it  best  not  to  linger  on  our 
way  so  early  in  the  morning.  As  we 
were  passing  along,  we  beheld  in  a 
lovely  glade,  a  doe  quietly  feeding,  and 
standing  near  her  side  was  a  cute  little 
fawn,   beautiful    as    a    picture.      We 


Sabbath  on  the  Momdain.  81 

scarcely  caught  sight  of  them  before 
they  went  bounding  away  beyond  our 
sight. 

Eda  exclaimed,  ''Oh,  the  dear  little 
creatures."  ''Certainly  Eda.  We  all 
knew  they  were  deer,''  replied  Will. 
^*0f  course  they  are  deer,  and  dear  as 
they  can  be.'' 

It  was  about  ten  miles  to  the  foot  of 
the  mountain.  All  the  way  the  woods 
were  sweetly  perfumed  by  the  breath 
of  summer.  Although  the  sky  was 
clear  and  the  sun  shone  brightly,  we 
did  not  suffer  with  the  heat.  We  had 
a  better  protection  from  the  power  of 
Sol's  burning  eye  than  the  wagon  sheet. 
Far  above  our  heads  was  the  almost 
unbroken  and  impenetrable  shade.  And 
with  little,  sparkling  springs  gushing 
here  and  there  from  the  rocks,  and  our 
road  on  either  side  fringed  with  the 
beautiful  maiden-hair  and  other  varie- 
ties of  ferns  we  greatly  enjoyed  our 
morning's  fall  of  a  thousand  feet. 

At  the  foot  of  the  mountain  we  came 


82  Camping  Out  in  California. 

out  from  under  the  great  and  richly 
tasseled  sun  shade,  which  nature  had 
prepared  to  protect  the  traveler  from 
the  burning  rays  of  the  noon-day  sun. 

Here  we  entered  a  fertile  valley  and 
during  the  remainder  of  the  day  beau- 
tiful farms  lay  on  either  side  of  the 
road. 

And  in  front  of  almost  every  house 
was  a  delightful  flower  garden,  in 
many  of  which  women  and  girls  were 
at  work. 

In  this  A^alley  everything  seemed 
home-like.  Horses  and  cattle  and 
sheep  were  grazing  in  the  pastures, 
while  pigs,  geese  and  chickens  seemed 
to  have  possession  of  the  highway. 

That  night  we  camped  in  an  open 
field  in  which  a  number  of  wagons 
loaded  with  men,  women  and  children, 
— eight  children  in  one  wagon — had 
entered  a  little  before  our  arrival. 

In  this  party  there  were  several  in- 
valids who  claimed  to  be  improving 
every  day,  and  judging  by  the  quantity 


Sabbath  on  the  Mountain.  8$ 

of  provisions  cooked  in  their  dutch- 
ovens  and  skillets  for  the  supper  that 
night,  we  did  not  doubt  that  statement 
in  the  least. 

They  had  no  tent,  but  slept  on  the 
ground,  and  lived  on  hot  biscuit,  wild 
game,  etc.  An  invalid  must  indeed 
be  far  gone  if  unable  to  rally  by  thi& 
kind  of  treatment. 

Among  our  new  acquaintances  and 
quick  made  friends  was  a  very  old  lady 
— nearly  eighty — who  was  so  weak 
before  starting  on  her  camping  trip 
that  she  was  unable  to  sit  up  but  a 
few  moments  at  a  time.  When  they 
started  she  was  lifted  into  the  wagon^ 
and  placed  on  a  bed  which  had  been 
prepared  for  her.  But  now  there  was 
a  tinge  on  her  wrinkled  cheeks,  and 
her  eyes  were  bright,  and  her  step 
seemed  nearly  as  elastic  as  that  of  a 
young  woman.  She  told  us  she  would 
be  perfectly  satisfied  if  there  had  been 
room  in  the  wagon  for  her  rocking 
chair. 


84  Camping  Out  in  California. 

She  was  a  pert,  little  grandmother 
and  loved  to  tell  funny  stories,  and  re- 
hearse the  experiences  of  her  early  life. 
Linnie  and  Eda  listened  with  close  at- 
tention, and  looked  at  each  other 
amazed  and  somewhat  incredulous  as 
the  aged  dame  told  about  crossing 
the  plains  in  '49,  and  how  folks  lived 
when  she  was  a  gal. 

Ben  and  Harry  spent  the  evening 
in  romping  and  playing  around  the 
camp-fires  with  other  children,  and  it 
was  late  in  the  evening  before  we  re- 
tired. 

The  next  morning  we  were  somewhat 
diverted  to  see  the  long  rows  of  uncov- 
ered heads  that  were  lying  near  our 
tent,  and  notice  the  diversity  of  colors. 
They  were  different  shades  of  white 
and  brown  and  red. 

But  presently  one  after  another  be- 
gan to  rise,  and  about  nine  o'clock  we 
parted  from  our  friends — who  took 
another  road — and  continued  our  jour- 
ney southward. 


Sabbath  on  the  Mountain.  85 

As  the  day  was  very  warm  and  the 
road  dusty,  we  drove  slowly  and  stopped 
occasionally  in  the  shadow  of  some 
large  oak,  or  near  some  stream  where 
€he  horses  could  rest  Avhile  the  boys 
searched  for  game,  and  the  girls  gath- 
ered flowers  to  adorn  and  perfume  our 
carriage. 

Flowers,  and  ferns,  and  moss,  and 
grass,  and  bearded  grain,  and  starfish, 
and  curious  rocks  were  tied  to  the 
bows,  and  pinned  to  the  cover,  and 
crowded  under  the  seat,  until  we  could 
well  have  passed  for  a  traA^eling 
museum. 

Before  night  we  came  to  the  foot  of 
a  mountain  and  seeing  no  water  or 
good  camping  ground  we  concluded  to 
continue  our  journey  in  the  cool  of  the 
evening.  When  about  half  way  to  the 
summit.  Will  and  Ben  turned  off  on 
an  old  road  to  have — so  they  said — a 
little  hunt.  As  we  continued  to  climb 
the  grade  we  heard  the  report  of  their 
gun   every   few   moments,    and  every 


86  Camping  Out  in  California. 

crack  and  reverberation  seemed  far- 
ther away,  until  our  ears  completely 
failed  to  catch  the  faint  sound  as  it 
came  struggling  up  from  the  canyon 
below. 

As  we  were  all  suffering  with  thirst 
and  could  find  no  water,  we  were  com- 
pelled to  go  on  until  night  had  over- 
taken us  on  a  strange  and  gloomy  moun- 
tain. 

Here  we  paused  and  called  first 
^'Wiir'  and  then  ^^Ben,"  but  received 
no  reply  except  the  pensive  sighing 
and  moaning  of  the  wind. 

Finally  we  resolved  to  travel  on,  and 
down,  down  we  went  until  we  were  two 
or  three  miles  from  the  summit,  then 
we  distinguished  a  little,  light  away  up 
the  side  of  the  mountain,  and  nearly  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  distant. 

The  girls  immediatel}^  seized  the 
bucket,  and  starting  up  the  steep  as- 
cent said  they  would  have  some  water 
if  they  had  to  pay  two  bits  a  drink. 

They  soon  returned,  bringing  a  sup- 


Sabbath  on  the  Mountain.  87 

ply  which  was  not  the  best,  but  we 
were  so  thirsty  that  we  drank  it  with- 
out waiting  to  complain  of  the  quality. 

When  we  had  gone  about  another 
mile  and  reached  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tain, we  came  to  a  stream  and  suc- 
ceeded in  finding  a  level  spot  near  the 
road  large  enough  for  our  tent. 

With  some  difficulty  w^e  gathered  a 
few  sticks,  sufficient  to  make  a  little 
fire,  after  which  we  prepared  supper 
thinking  the  boys  would  arrive  by  that 
time. 

Supper  being  over  we  became  very 
anxious  and  strained  our  eyes  gazing 
through  the  dim  color  of  night,  and  the 
girls  said  with  tremulous  voices,  ''Don't 
you  think  you  can  hear  them  coming? 
Certainly  they  ought  to  be  here  by  this 
time;"  and  Harry  cried  because  he  was 
afraid  an  old  grizzly  had  caught  them. 

Thus  we  watched  and  waited  until 
very  late,  when  tired  as  we  were,  we  re- 
solved to  go  back  and  search  for  the 
lost. 


88  Camping  Out  in  California. 

As  we  were  about  to  start  we  heard 
a  shrill  whistle  on  the  mountain  side, 
which  was  follow^ed  by  the  flash  and 
report  of  the  shot-gun.  'There  they 
come,"  shouted  Harry.  The  girls 
clapped  their  hands  and  said  ''Good. 
We  are  so  glad." 

And  while  a  thrill  of  joy  entered 
our  hearts,  and  the  pleasure  of  instan- 
taneous relief  fell  like  a  benediction  of 
the  night  upon  us,  we  took  a  long  breath 
in  concert,  and  then  welcomed  the 
prodigals,  w^ho  came  loaded  with  game. 

It  was  past  the  hour  of  midnight  ere 
we  fell  asleep,  and  in  the  morning  twi- 
light our  quiet  slumber  was  disturbed 
by  the  thunder  of  lumber  wagons,  which 
were  on  their  way  from  the  mountain 
mills  to  the  railroad. 

The  mountains  now  subsided  into 
hills  and  about  the  middle  of  the  day 
we  beheld  just  below  us  the  thrifty  lit- 
tle village  of  Cloverdale.  It  is  at  the 
end  of  a  narrow  but  fertile  valley  with 
mountains  on  either  side  which  shelter 


Sabbath  on  the  Mountain.  89 

it  from  the  coast  winds  and  fogs.  It  is 
an  infant  city,  slumbering  in  nature^s 
cradle,  bathed  in  a  flood  of  sunshine, 
and  adorned  with  richly  colored  and 
sweet-scented  flowers. 

But  it  cannot  long  remain  a  babe, 
for  it  is  not  only  the  terminus  of  the 
railroad  but  also  the  starting  point  of 
several  popular  stage  lines. 

The  iron  horse  which  comes  every 
day  running  up  the  valley,  halts  here, 
as  if  afraid  to  venture  farther  on  among 
the  mountains  and  canyons.  A  vast 
amount  of  freight  is  shipped  to  this 
town  and  then  hauled  on  heavy  wagons 
into  the  mountains  and  valleys  be- 
yond. 

The  road  along  this  valley  was  so 
hard  and  smooth  that  it  resembled  a 
city  avenue. 

The  sun  shone  with  midsummer 
brightness  and  the  air  was  so  quiet 
that  there  was  not  even  the  lightest 
stir  among  the  leaves  or  grass,  and  we 
soon  began  to  sigh  for  the  pleasant  and 


90  Camping  Out  in  California. 

refreshing  forest  shade  or  the  cool  breeze 
of  the  ocean. 

It  has  well  been  said  that  in  a  few 
hours'  travel  in  California  a  person  can 
find  any  climate  he  desires.  But  one 
could  scarcely  realize  that  a  few  miles 
could  possibly. make  such  a  difference. 
At  the  coast,  only  about  forty  miles 
distant,  ladies  were  wearing  their  win- 
ter clothing  and  heavy  cloaks,  wliile  in 
this  valley  they  were  clothed  in  light 
lawns  and  white  dresses,  and  carrying 
parasols  and  fans  instead  of  wraps. 

We  reached  Healdsburg  a  little  be- 
fore sundown  and  found  a  camping 
place  near  the  river. 

It  was  a  lovely  evening  and  our 
young  folks  greatly  enjoyed  a  lively 
promenade  along  the  river  bank,  across 
the  long  bridge,  and  through  some  of 
the  principal  streets  of  this  pleasant 
village. 

Ben  and  Harry  found  amusement 
l)layingin  the  sand  and  skipping  stones 
on  the   water,  where  the  silver  ripples 


Sabbath  on  the  Mountain.  91 

were  dancing  to  the  music  of  bees  and 
birds,  while  we  who  had  traveled  far- 
ther on  the  journey  of  life  were  content 
to  sit  within  the  tent  door  and  enjoy 
the  enjoyment  of  the  young. 

Healdsburg  is  a  thriving  town  con- 
siderably larger  than  Cloverdale  and 
pleasantly  situated  in  the  broad  and 
rich  valley. 

Here  the  Seventh  Day  Adventists 
have  their  stronghold.  Disregarding 
the  sanctities  of  the  glorious  Lord's  day, 
they,  like  the  Jews — who  do  not  believe 
in  the  divinity  of  Christ — keep  Satur- 
day instead  of  Sunday. 

Next  day  we  went  to  Santa  Rosa,  the 
valley  like  a  river  still  widening  as 
we  neared  the  sea,  and  large  vine- 
yards and  orchards  appearing  all  the 
way.  • 

We  reached  Santa  Rosa  early  in  the 
afternoon  and  had  considerable  diffi- 
culty in  finding  a  place  to  pitch  our 
tent. 

While  the  boys  were  looking  for  a 


92  Camping  Out  in  California. 

camping  ground,  we  girls  remained  in 
the  wagon  in  one  of  the  principal  streets. 

This  was  during  the  Fair,  and  crowds 
of  well  dressed  cheerful-looking  people 
were  moving  in  every  direction. 

Our  canvas  curtain  was  rolled  up 
so  as  to  afford  us  the  benefit  of  the 
breeze  and  also  a  glimpse  of  life  as  it 
exists  in  this  beautiful  and  enterpris- 
ing city. 

We  had  on  our  camping  suits  and 
broad  sun  hats,  and  a  thick  covering 
of  dust.  And  judging  from  the  side 
glances,  and  mirthful  looks  that  were 
cast  at  us,  we  were  taken  for  gypsies^ 
or  way-worn  emigrants  looking  for  a 
home. 

After  an  hour  had'  passed  during 
which  time  we  were  a  gazing-stock  for 
old  and  yoting,  rich  and  poor,  black 
and  white,  our  young  and  brave  heroes 
returned  and  we  were  quickly  trans- 
ferred to  a  comfortable  camping  ground 
by  the  side  of  the  stream. 

After  a  liberal  use  of  water  and  a 


Sabbath  on  the  Mountain.  93 

little  quiet  rest,  we  all  started  out  for  a 
walk. 

Our  attention  was  called  to  the  Bap- 
tist church  which  is  probably  the  larg- 
est house  of  worship  in  Santa  Rosa. 
It  is  ceiled  throughout  and  we  were 
credibh'  informed  that  the  entire 
building  including  pews  and  pulpit 
was  built  from  one  redwood  tree,  and 
besides  the  material  used  for  the  church 
there  were  eighty  thousand  shingles 
sawn  from  the  remainder  of  the  tree. 
As  we  had  been  through  the*redwood 
forest  we  did  not  think  this  the  least 
incredible. 

We  also  noticed  the  Young  Ladies' 
Seminary,  which  is  a  beautiful  build- 
ing surrounded  by  lovely  lawns,  walks 
and  flowers. 

We  heard  the  ability  and  earnest 
zeal  of  the  sisters  who  own  the  Semi- 
nary, mentioned  by  many  in  highest 
terms.  One  lady  said,  ''All  the  girls 
who  attend  that  school  turn  out  well.'' 

The  boys  took  us  to  see  a  large  bal- 


94  Camping  Out  in  California. 

loon  that  was  struggling  to  get  away 
from  the  world.  As  we  looked  upon 
the  bulky  but  light  and  aerial  structure, 
swaying  back  and  forth  as  if  filled  with 
sensitive  nerves,  now  settling  down  for 
an  instant  in  quietude  as  if  exhausted 
by  its  efforts  for  victory  and  freedom^ 
now  rallying  as  with  renewed  strength 
and  springing  upward  like  a  chained 
eagle  endeavoring  to  break  the  fetters 
that  held  it  to  the  earth,  we  were  forci- 
bly reminded  of  many  whom  we  knew 
to  be  held  down  by  the  strong  chains 
of  vice,  struggling  to  get  free  but  unable 
to  break  the  iron  bands  that  held  them 
down. 

It  seems  to  me  that  if  there  is  one 
creature  on  earth  more  to  be  pitied 
than  another,  it  is  a  human  being 
made  in  the  image  of  God,  who  is  over- 
come by  temptation,  and  yet  struggling 
in  vain  to  break  loose  from  the  strong 
grasp  of  the  vice  which  he  knows  to  be 
an  oppressive  tyrant. 

Indeed  it  was  not  necessary  to  call 


Sabbath  on  the  Mountain.  95 

to  remembrance  those  whom  we  had 
known,  for  we  were  able  even  then  to 
look  upon  some  whose  very  appearance 
gave  evidence  of  inward  battles,  heart 
and  soul  struggles  with  evil. 

It  was  only  necessary  for  us  to  look 
in  the  faces  of  many  around  us  in  order 
to  realize  tha-  "ihe  flesh  warreth  against 
the  spirit  and  the  spirit  against  the 
flesh,  and  these  are  contrary  the  one  to 
the  other." 

When  we  returned  to  our  camp  a 
gentleman  told  us  that  it  was  not  safe 
for  us  to  remain  there  during  the  night, 
that  unfortunately  we  had  located  in 
the  part  of  town  where  all  the  roughs 
were  in  the  habit  of  passing  from  one 
haunt  of  vice  to  another. 

After  the  daylight  had  disappeared 
and  the  full  moon  was  shining  upon  us^ 
the  boys  harnessed  our  horses  while  the 
girls  packed  the  tent  and  bedding,  and 
then  we  rolled  out  to  find  a  place  where 
we  CO  aid  sleep  in  peace  and  safety. 

After  continuing  our  journey  about 


5)6  Camping  Out  in  California. 

three  or  four  miles  we  found  a  little 
spot  of  gfass  in  a  corner  where  two 
fences  joined,  and  there  by  the  glow- 
ing moonlight,  we  set  up  our  tent,  and 
were  soon  peacefully  at  rest,  while  our 
liearts  were  filled  with  thankfulness 
and  gratitude  to  God. 

But  we  did  not  sleep  much  during 
the  night.  Wagons  kept  passing  until 
nearly  morning;  also  men  on  horse- 
back, and  on  foot,  several  of  whom  were 
nnder  the  powerful  influence  of  alcohol. 

One  poor  fellow  was  raving  and  curs- 
ing like  a  mad  man,  while  a  woman,  I 
know  not  whether  a  mother,  wife  or 
sister,  followed  the  inebriate,  sobbing 
and  crying  piteously.  Several  remarks 
were  made  concerning  our  tent  but  no 
one  interfered  with  our  humble  abode. 

The  next  day  we  arrived  at  Petaluma, 
another  California  village,  that  was 
filled  with  California  push  and  enter- 
prise. 

Here  we  also  found  it  inconvenient 
to  secure  a  camping  place.     (5ne  kind 


Sabbath  on  the  Mountain.  97 

gentleman  gave  us  permission  to  pitch 
our  tent  in  a  corral  among  the  cattle, 
another  said  if  it  were  not  for  the  teams 
coming  and  going,  we  coulii  camp  in 
the  lumber  yard.  Finally,  some  one 
told  us  of  a  place  outside  the  town  where 
the  gypsies  were  in  the  habit  of  camp- 
ing and  we  concluded  to  go  there. 

We  found  it  a  very  good  place  but 
almost  impossible  to  secure  wood 
enough  to  make  a  fire.  Will  and  Ben, 
however,  climbed  some  of  the  gum  trees 
and  broke  off  dead  limbs  sufficient  to 
answer  all  purposes. 

A  few  rods  away  and  near  the  fence 
there Vas  a  mound  of  fresh  earth  which 
resembled  a  grave,  and  Will  said  he  ex- 
pected one  of  the  gypsies  was  buried 
there.  The  girls  hastened  awa}^  from 
the  grave  and  began  to  make  objections 
to  camping  over  the  Sabbath  with  a 
dead  gypsy.  Little  Harry,  however,  was 
not  so  easil}"  frightened.  He  said,  ''A 
hundred  dead  gypsies  could  not  scare  me 
if  they  were  all  buried  in  the  ground." 


?W  Camping  Out  in  California. 

After  a  while  Ben  said  some  of  the 
boys  told  him  it  was  only  a  dog  that 
was  buried  there. 

Then  the  girls'  faces  briglitened  up 
as  Eda  remarked  that  she  was  not 
afraid  of  a  dog  but  she  would  be  of  a 
gypsy  dead  or  alive. 

While  in  this  town  we  visited  the 
woolen  mills^  of  Avhich  we  had  heard 
before  leaving  home.  Here  we  watched 
the  wool  from  where  it  was  emptied 
from  the  sack,  just  as  it  had  been  shorn 
from  the  sheep,  dusty  and  matted,  to 
where  it  was  picked,  cleaned,  carded, 
spun,  (three  hundred  and  sixty  threads 
at  a  time  by  one  man,)  woven,  dyed, 
and  hung  on  the  line  bright  red,  soft 
flannel. 

As  we  gazed  upon  the  unclean  wool 
going  in,  and  the  beautiful  cloth  that 
would  honor  a  king's  wardrobe  coming 
out  by  the  hundreds  of  yards,  we  were 
reminded  of  the  long  time  ago  when 
the  New  England  mothers  and  daugh- 
ters persevered  in  their  irksome  method 


Sabbath  on  the  Mountain.  9d 

of  cloth-making  by  hand.  The  wool 
had  to  be  washed,  picked,  carded  and 
then  spun  one  thread  at  a  time.  The 
weary  house-wife  would  walk  back  and 
forth,  deftly  handling  the  wheel  with 
jne  hand  and  the  yarn  with  the  other. 

And  then  the  slow  process  of  weav- 
ing by  gliding  the  shuttle  to  and  fro^ 
first  with  the  right  hand  and  then  with 
the  left,  while  the  blue-striped  or  plaid 
Aveb  grew  from  one  to  six  yards  a  day. 
What  would  our  great  grandmothers 
think,  if  they  could  stand  for  an  hour 
in  this  manufactory,  and  see  the  wool 
going  in  and  the  cloth  coming  out? 

The  next  morning  it  was  the  Sabbath 
sun  that  smiled  upon  us  again,  but  we 
were  about  one  hundred  miles  from 
where  we  camped  the  Sabbath  before, 
and  how  vastly  different  were  our  sur- 
roundings! Instead  of  nature's  calm 
and  harmonious  music,  our  ears  were 
greeted  with  the  coarse  voices  of  shout- 
ing boys,  the  rattle  of  cow-bells,  the 
squealing  of  pigs  and  the  sound  of  ham- 


100  Camping  Out  in  (California. 

mer  and  axe.  But  we  had  the  oppor- 
tunity of  going  to  the  house  of  God  and 
hearing  a  clear  and  forcible  sermon  on 
the  atonement. 

On  the  following  day  we  drove  to 
San  Rafael  where  we  met  some  kind 
friends,  who  not  only  invited  us  to* 
camp  in  their  yard,  but  endeavored  to 
make  it  as  comfortable  and  pleasant 
for  us  as  possible,  even  furnishing  feed 
for  our  horses  and  insisting  that  we 
should  eat  at  their  table.  Here  we  were 
so  comfortably  and  bounteously  enter- 
tained by  such  cheerful,  refined  and 
Christian  company  that  our  stay  was 
somewhat  prolonged. 

San  Rafael  is  a  delightful  little  city 
containing  many  elegant  and  costly 
mansions.  In  front  of  these  fine  resi- 
dences were  beautiful  lawns  which  were 
bordered  with  the  choicest  shrubbery 
and  flowers,  and  shaded  by  handsome 
trees,  and  kept  green  and  flourishing 
by  the  refreshing  spray  of  many  foun- 
tains. 


Sabbath  on  the  Mountain.  101 

Beneath  these  trees  and  in  the  midst 
of  dahlias,  roses  and  other  lovely  and 
odorous  blossoms  were  bright-faced 
boys  and  girls  who  were  richly  clad, 
and  as  happy  as  the  larks  whose  joyful 
songs  had  cheered  us  during  the  day. 

Beautiful  children,  with  beautiful 
homes  in  a  beautiful  city.  Happy 
children  in  a  happy  community,  sur- 
rounded by  happy  friends  and  asso- 
ciates. 

But  in  this  town  we  also  saw  houses 
that  were  far  from  being  mansions. 

Near  these  fine  and  decorated  homes 
were  dwellings  that  were  small  and 
somewhat  dilapidated.  In  front  and 
around  these  humble  abodes  were  also 
lovely  and  merry  children.  Their 
homes  were  far  from  being  elegant, 
their  clothing  was  not  fine,  and  we  ma}^ 
reasonably  suppose  that  their  fare  was 
very  plain.  But  the  greater  and  richer 
blessings  were  theirs.  The  bird-songs 
were  for  them,  the  sunshine  was  for 
them,   the   pure   atmosphere   was   for 


102  Camping  Oat  in  California. 

them,  the  sweet  perfume  that  came 
from  the  gardens  of  their  wealthy  neigh- 
bors was  for  them,  and  even  that  city 
of  glory  where  the  girls  and  boys  are 
playing  on  the  golden  streets,  is  for 
poor  children  as  truly  as  for  the  wealthy. 
''The  rich  and  poor  meet  together; 
the  Lord  is  the  maker  of  them  all.'' 


CHAPTER  V. 

SIGHT-SEEING  IN  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

Leaving  our  team  in  the  care  of  our 
friends  we  took  the  train  for  San  Fran- 
cisco. 

Linriie  had  never  seen  the  cars  be- 
fore. All  her  days  had  been  passed 
among  the  mountains.  She  knew  how 
to  saddle  and  ride  a  horse,  paddle  a 
canoe,  row  a  boat  across  the  lake  or 
shoot  a  deer,  but  the  sharp  whistle  of 
the  engine  and  the  running  away  of  the 
house  on  wheels,  was  more  than  she 
had  bargained  for,  but  she  could  not 
stop  the  iron  horse  by  clinging  to  the 
seat  and  saying  barely  loud  enough  to 
be  heard  :  ''Wh-o-a,  easy  there,  hold  on 
if  you  please." 

After  passing  through  a  tunnel  and 
darting  out  into  the  light,  the  girl  of 
the  mountains  wore  an  expression  of 


104  Camping  Out  in  California. 

anxiety  and  although  somewhat  amused 
at  such  innocence  abroad,  we  hastened 
to  speak  comforting  words  and  assure 
our  young  companion  that  her  fears 
were  only  imaginary. 

When  we  stepped  from  the  train 
Linnie  took  a  long  breath  like  one  es- 
caping from  prison,  while  Eda  and  the 
boys  could  not  suppress  their  feelings 
of  merriment,  and  thought  it  a  bless- 
ing that  our  ride  in  the  cars  was  ended. 

Now  we  passed  from  the  train  into 
the  boat,  which  to  Linnie  seemed  like 
a  vast  floating  palace  occupied  by  the 
sons  and  daughters  of  a  king.  It  is 
very  probable  that  those  who  are  in 
the  habit  of  crossing  the  bay  ever}^  few 
days  have  become  familiar  with  the 
ever  varying  lights  and  shadows  of  the 
clouds  and  Avater  which  make  the  bay 
and  surrounding  shores  a  scene  of 
beauty  and  grandeur,  so  that  they  are 
able  to  cross  and  recross  without  realiz- 
ing the  glory  by  which  they  are  sur- 
rounded. 


Sight-seeing  in  San  Francisco.  105 

It  indeed  seemed  not  a  little  strange 
that  ladies  and  gentlemen  could  sit 
quietly  poring  over  the  pages  of  a  daily 
paper  or  love -sick  novel,  while  thus 
gliding  over  the  eloquent  tongue  of  the 
continent  within  the  veryllips  of  the 
Golden  Gate. 

If  ever  wo  desired  more  than  one 
pair  of  eyes  so  that  we  could  look  in 
every  direction  at  the  same  time,  it 
was  on  that  lovely  and  long  to  he  re- 
membered morning. 

In  one  direction  lay  Oakland,  ^'the 
crowning  city,  whose  merchants  are 
princes,  whose  traffickers  are  the  hon- 
orable of  the  earth."  In  another  direc- 
tion was  America's  broad  and  wonder- 
ful gate,  which  was  open  for  all  who 
desired  to  enter  except  the  poor  Mon- 
golian. He  is  requested  to  turn  back 
on  the  cold  wave.  But  if  the  gate  of 
this  land  of  Liberty  is  closed  to  the 
Chinaman,  the  golden  gate  of  heaven 
itself  is  not. 


106  Camping  Out  in  California. 

"  That  gate  ajar  stands  free  for  all 
Who  seek  through  it  salvation  ; 
The  rich  and  poor,  the  great  and  small, 
Of  every  tribe  and  nation." 

Stretching  far  away  to  the  south  was 
an  arm  of  the  bay  that  blazed  with  flash- 
ing diamonds  of  the  first  water.  And 
then  there  stood  the  great  sea  goat  with 
his  ponderous  head  above  the  surface 
and  all  read}^  to  butt  any  vessel  that 
might  be  foolish  enough  to  venture  too 
near.  White-sailed  yachts  and  boats 
were  skimming  over  the  waves  almost 
as  lightly  and  swiftly  as  the  white- 
Avinged  gulls.  Steamboats  were  moving 
speedily  in  various  directions,  while  on 
their  decks  were  scores  of  men,  women, 
and  children,  who  were  fanned  by  the 
ocean  breeze  and  bathed  in  the  morn- 
ing sunlight.  And  then  the  large 
ships  that  had  come  from  different 
parts  of  the  wo^ld  were  lying  at  anchor, 
rocking  as  gently  as  a  family  cradle, 
while  the  forest  of  masts  reminded  us 
of  a  New  England  cedar  swamp  a  few 
years  after  the  fire  had  passed  through 


Sight-»eeing  in  San  Francisco.  107 

it  killing  all  the  trees.  And  toward 
that  forest  of  dead  trees,  which  swayed 
back  and  forth  with  every  w^ave,  our 
boat  seemed  to  be  swiftly  moving. 

When  we  reached  the  landing  w^e 
were  borne  along  by  the  motley  crowed 
until  we  found  ourselves  on  one  of  the 
principal  streets  of  the  great  city  of  the 
west.  Here  we  beheld  the  surging 
tide  of  restless  humanity.  Men,  women 
and  children  of  different  rank,  color 
and  nationality,  rushed  hither  and 
thither  wdth  the  speed  of  a  belated 
traveler  in  a  wilderness,  or  one  in  search 
of  a  lost  treasure. 

And  we  noticed  almost  immediately 
that  the  vast  crowds  who  were  driven 
along  so  swiftly  by  the  city  excitement. 
Had  a  more  anxious  and  careworn  look 
than  those  who  live  in  the  solitudes  of 
California  hills  and  dales. 

And  although  we  failed  to  see  the 
calm  serenity  of  countenance  we  had 
noticed  in  the  country,  we  beheld 
many  aged  men  and  women  who  went 


108  Camping  Out  in  California. 

bounding  along  with  nearly  as  much 
vivacity  as  that  of  the  young. 

In  the  metropolis  we  wished  to  visit 
the  most  noted  places,  consequently  we 
took  the  street  car  for  Woodward's  Gar- 
dens. 

Here  we  were  much  interested  in  the 
richly  colored  flowers  which  seemed  to 
fill  the  air  with  sweet  perfume,  appear- 
ing in  various  shades  and  tints  along 
the  walks  and  in  man}^  other  places 
throughout  the  entertaining  and  in- 
structive garden. 

We  alsD  passed  through  the  aquarium 
and  examined  the  fish  of  difl'erent 
species  that  moved  slowly  and  grace- 
fully through  the  water  as  if  proud  to 
show  themselves  to  visitors. 

Our  young  ladies  paid  great  atten- 
tion to  the  birds  which  were  arrayed  in 
garments  of  many  colors  and  greeted 
us  in  varied  tones  of  expression,  and  a 
diversity  of  voices.  These  feathered 
songsters  are  numerous  and  ranged  in 
size,  all  the  way  from  the  tiny  hum- 


Sight-seeing  in  San  Francisco.  109 

ming  bird  to  the  ostrich  that  Avas  con- 
siderably taller  than  Harry.  This,  how- 
ever, was  very  small  when  compared 
with  some  of  which  we  have  read.  In 
Africa  they  have  been  known  to  be 
eight  feet  tall  and  to  weigh  three  hun- 
dred pounds. 

As  this  monster  bird  stood  still  and 
allowed  the  girls  to  stroke  its  glossy 
plumage  while  it  endeavored  to  pick 
the  buttons  from  Ben's  coat  we  were 
reminded  of  the  proverb  used  by  the 
Arabs,  ''stupid  as  an  ostrich." 

The  boys  spent  several  minutes  look- 
ing at  the  alligators,  which,  as  Ben  said, 
winked  sideways  because  they  couldn't 
help  it.  They  were  lazy  looking  crea- 
tures sluggishly  resting  on  their  stone 
bed.  We  also  looked  into  the  home  of 
Mr.  Grizzly  and  companion,  the  old 
gentleman  appeared  very  sociable,  but 
we  did  not  fancy  his  looks ;  he  resem- 
bled some  old  toper  who  in  a  drunken 
row  hard  been  unfortunate  enough  to 
lose  a  portion  of  his  nose. 


110  Cam'ping  Out  in  California. 

As  this  big  clumsy  looking  creature 
went  springing  up  the  frame  that  stands 
in  the  center  of  the  pit,  Harry  ran 
away  saying  ''He  is  after  us,  and  he 
will  eat  every  last  one  of  us  if  we  don't 
get  away  from  here." 

Harry,  however,  was  not  alarmed  at 
the  young  black  bear  which  was  in  an 
enclosure  by  itself,  and  was  standing 
erect  flourishing  its  paws  seemingly  as 
playful  as  a  dog.  He  said  'That  little 
bear  wants  to  have  some  fun,"  and  he 
started  to  climb  in  to  play  with  it.  Eda 
caught  him,  exclaiming  "You  foolish 
boy,  if  you  was  in  there  the  bear  would 
have  fun,  but  it  wouldn't  be  fun  for 
you." 

We  visited  the  happy  family  and 
found  all  hands  in  a  quarrel,  "Happy 
family  I  should  say,"  exclaimed  Linnie. 

A  poor  kitten  was  endeavoring  to  es- 
cape fl'om  a  vicious  little  dog  which 
seemed  determined  to  kill  it  if  possible. 
But  when  the  dog  would  attempt  to 
bite  the  kitten  a  number  of  monkeys 


Sight-seeing  in  San  F'-ancisco.  Ill 

would  take  him  by  his  legs  and  draw 
him  away.  Had  not  the  monkeys 
interfered  the  kitten  would  certainly 
have  been  killed. 

There  was  much  scolding,  threaten- 
ing, boxing  of  ears  and  fault-finding 
among  the  members  of  the  happy 
family. 

We  also  called  on  Mr.  Camel  and 
found  him  lying  on  his  bed  taking  a 
little  rest.  Will  asked  him  to  get  up 
and  show  himself,  and  he  did  so  very 
politely.  He  is  a  bony,  hump-backed 
and  coarse  looking  fellow,  with  large 
cushioned  feet,  and  although  not  hand- 
some, is  very  useful  when  on  the  des- 
ert, as  he  can  travel  nearly  a  week  with- 
out water.  We  have  read  of  camels  so 
strong  as  to  be  able  to  carry  sixteen 
hundred  pounds,  and  some  so  swift 
that  they  can  travel  one  hundred  miles 
in  a  single  day. 

We  were  introduced  to  the  king,  who 
is  a  powerful  looking  creature,  with 
long  hair,  heavy  beard,  and  a  strong 


112  Camping  Out  in  California. 

voice.  His  name  is  Lion,  and  he  is 
well  called  the  king  of  beasts. 

As  we  stood  before  him  he  opened 
his  mouth  and  gave  a  fearful  roar.  The 
girls  were  startled  and  stepped  back, 
and  Harry  said,  "If  he  should  break 
out  wouldn't  we  run?" 

After  passing  from  one  object  of  in- 
terest to  another,  carefully  scanning 
the  tigers,  leopards,  hyenas  and  many 
other  beasts,  and  sailing  a  few  times 
around  in  the  wheel  boat,  and  examin- 
ing many  curiosities  in  the  building, 
we  passed  out  and  mingled  with  the 
marching  crowd. 

As  we  had  heard  much  about  the  Bat- 
tle of  Waterloo  we  concluded  to  visit  that 
wonderful  scene.  After  passing  into  a 
large  round  building  and  through  the 
darkness  up  a  flight  of  stairs  we  found 
ourselves  standing — to  all  appearance 
— in  the  center  of  a  vast  battle  field, 
and  surrounded  by  a  raging  tempest  of 
carnage.  There,  upon  our  right  hand 
and  on  our  left,  lay  the  ghastly  dead 


Sight- seeing  in  in  San  Francisco.  113 

in  the  midst  of  the  mournful  dying, 
mangled  forms  trampled  and  crushed 
beneath  the  feet  of  the  war-horse,  and 
arms  dripping  with  blood.  Soldiers 
falling  from  their  saddles  and  riderless 
horses  plunging  into  disordered  and 
broken  ranks,  while  burning  buildings, 
bursting  shells,  shattered  gun-carriages 
and  moving  ambulances  could  be  seen 
in  various  directions.  It  seemed  as 
though  we  could  almost  hear  the  roar 
of  the  artillery,  the  shout  of  the  victo- 
rious and  the  shrieks  of  the  wounded 
and  the  moans  of  the  expiring. 

We  never  before  had  such  a  realizing 
sense  of  the  horrors  of  w^ar,  as  while 
standing  there  in  the  midst  of  thous- 
ands of  brave  soldiers  who  were  wildly 
rushing  forward  to  the  slaughter  of  their 
brethern,  as  innocent  as  themselves. 
There  were  the  commanding  officers 
with  their  hands  uplifted  giving  direc- 
tions to  officers  beneath  them. 

Away  in  the  distance  was  the  army 
of  Blucher  coming  to  decide  the  heart- 


114  Camping  Out  in  California. 

rending   contest   and  send   the   brave 
Napoleon  away  into  exile. 

As  we  gazed  upon  that  raging  battle 
and  beheld  the  falling  and  splintered 
trees,  the  puffs  of  white  smoke  from 
the  mouths  of  the  muskets  and  can- 
nons, the  flattened  fences,  the  fresh 
earth  torn  and  riddled  by  grape  and 
cannister,  and  the  fields  of  grain 
turned  into  blood-stained  couches  for 
the  thousands  who  have  been  torn  and 
butchered  and  mangled,  not  by  wild 
beasts,  not  by  the  devastating  tornado, 
not  by  the  railroad  disaster,  but  by  in- 
telligent and  educated  gentlemen,  we 
felt  to  ask  with  David,  "What  is 
man?" 

"Oh  tell  me  can  it  be  on  earth, 
Such  scenes  of  horror  have  their  birth?" 

How  earnestly  should  Christians 
pray  for  the  coming  forth  of  that  glo- 
rious day  when  the  nations  shall  learn 
war  no  more  because  the  earth  will  be 
filled  with  the  knowledge  of  God.  It 
seemed  wonderful  indeed  that  a  paint- 


Sight-seeing  in  San  Francisco.  115 

ing  could  be  made  no  perfect  and  so 
real. 

Near  where  Ave  stood  was  the  natural 
ground  on  which  was  scattered  arms^ 
knapsacks,  canteens,  clothing  and 
small  trees. 

We  never  knew  before  that  manza- 
nita  bushes  grew  in  Belgium  and  on 
the  field  of  Waterloo.  It  was  difficult 
to  tell  where  the  ground  ended  and  the 
painting  began. 

After  coming  out,  and  standing  again 
on  the  street,  we  looked  upon  the  build- 
ing and  wondered  how  such  a  vast  scene 
could  be  contained  in  a  brick  house 
which  occupied  only  a  portion  of  a 
block.  We  could  scarcely  realize  that 
the  vast  country  over  which  we  had 
been  looking,  apparently  several  miles 
in  each  direction,  was  contained  in 
that  edifice. 

Our  young  friends  desired  to  visit 
the  Golden  Gate  Park  and  the  Cliff 
House,  consequently  we  took  the  cable 
car  and  started  for  those  popular  places 


116  Camping  Out  in  California. 

of  entertainment  and  recreation. 

Now  we  find  ourselves  seated  in  an 
open  car,  to  which  neither  horse  nor 
engine  is  attached,  and  moving  swiftly 
along  the  middle  of  the  street. 

Linnie  wanted  to  know  what  was 
hauling  the  car,  and  Harry  said  ''It 
just  goes  itself."  When  we  went  glid- 
ing up  a  hill  he  remarked,  ''It  must  be 
a  strong  car  to  haul  itself  and  so  many 
people  too." 

On  reaching  the  Park  we  found  a 
delightful  resort,  especially  for  those 
whose  homes  and  places  of  business  are 
wedged  in  among  the  buildings  and 
blocks  of  the  city. 

Fine  carriages  were  rolling  on  the 
principal  avenues,  and  many  ladies 
and  gentlemen  were  leisurely  strolling 
along  the  graveled  walks  or  resting  in 
comfortable  seats  beneath  the  shade, 
while  happy  children  walked  hand  in 
hand  as  with  their  joyous  prattle  they 
seemed  to  add  additional  happiness  to 
their  parents  and  friends. 


Sight-seeing  in  San  Francisco.  117 

Our  young  folks  were  much  inter- 
ested in  the  statue  of  General  Garfield. 
They  thought  it  looked  so  noble  and  life- 
like, and  they  were  loath  to  turn  their 
eyes  away  from  the  monument  of  the 
good,  wise  and  patriotic  President  who 
had  been  so  shamefully  murdered. 

The  conservatory —  a  large  glass 
building — is  one  of  the  most  interest- 
ing and  pleasant  places  we  have  ever 
visited.  We  seemed  to  be  walking 
among  the  petals  of  some  gigantic  blos- 
som that  had  bloomed  on  the  sun  and 
been  brought  by  some  flower-loving 
angel  to  this  lower  world  to  refresh  and 
comfort  the  weary  sons  and  daughters 
of  earth . 

Enveloped  in  a  cloud  of  perfume 
that  was  almost  suffocating  we  won- 
dered if  earth  could  afford  a  lovelier  and 
sweeter  spot. 

It  seems  to  me  that  any  attempt  to 
describe  the  flowera  and  plants  with 
all  their  variety  of  richness,  delicacy 
and  beauty,  would  be  a  failure. 


118  Camping  Out  in  California. 

While  looking  upon  some  of  those 
wonderful  plants  we  felt  compelled  to 
say,  ''Entreat  me  not  to  leave  thee." 
Indeed  we  could  have  lingered  there 
for  several  hours,  had  we  not  been  re- 
minded of  the  fact  that  *'  time  flies." 

As  we  left  that  translucent  mansion 
that  seemed  almost  ready  to  burst  with 
sweetness,  we  never  expected  to  stand 
in  a  more  lovely  place  on  this  side  of 
Jordan.  Over  there,  however,  we  hope 
to  find  this  conservatory  equaled  if  not 
surpassed^ 

The  girls  would  like  to  have  gath- 
ered a  bouquet,  but  those  flowers  were 
too  precious  for  ordinary  use. 

From  the  Park  we  took  the  dummy 
and  went  to  the  Clifl' House.  The  road 
ran  most  of  the  way  through  dry, 
dreary,  sand  hills  which  Harry  said 
were  beautiful.  Some  of  the  ladies 
laughed  at  the  child's  idea  of  beauty, 
and  he  added,  ''beautiful  to  play  in." 
We  were  told  that  a  large  portion  of 
the  ground  on  which  the  city  stands 


Sight-seeing  in  San  Francisco.  119 

was  once  covered  with  such  sand  dunes 
as  these. 

In  a  few  moments  we  find  ourselves 
again  standing  face  to  face  with  the 
Pacific,  looking  far  out  over  the  "laugh- 
ing water"  in  the  direction  of  China. 

Although  there  was  no  forest,  hill  or 
mountain  to  obstruct  our  vision,  our 
eyes  were  not  quite  large  enough  to  see 
the  land  of  the  Celestials. 

Here  we  stand  on  a  cliff  which  over- 
hangs the  sea,  and  just  beyond  are  the 
islets  of  rock  which  rise  above  the 
waves  and  are  known  as  the  renowned 
'*seal  rocks." 

Here  are  scores  of  sea-lions,  some  on 
the  higlier  rocks  basking  in  the  sun- 
shine, some  climbing  the  ledges,  and 
others  tumbling  in  the  water  below. 

It  is  l)oth  interesting  and  amusing  to 
watch  through  a  spy-glass  these  awk- 
ward and  clumsy  creatures  as  they  rise 
from  their  watery  dens  and  climb  with 
an  air  of  independence  the  recessed 
walls  of  their  old  wave-washed  castles, 


120  Camping  Out  in  California. 

which  are  safely  moored  in  the  depths 
below.  Those  seals,  as  if  aware  of  the 
fact  that  they  are  protected  by  the  laws 
of  the  land,  seem  altogether  independ- 
ent and  indifferent  to  the  presence  of 
man,  moving  with  boldness  and  sleep- 
ing in  safety. 

They  are  of  various  sizes;  the  largest 
would  weigh,  perhaps,  three  hundred 
pound.  They  have  large  eyes,  small 
web  feet,  and  very  small  heads,  and 
although  so  slow  and  clumsy  on  the 
rocks,  in  the  water  they  shoot  back  and 
forth  like  arrows  in  the  air,  apparently 
as  much  at  home  as  the  salmon  or  cod. 
Although  they  growl  and  bark  and  oc- 
casionally when  disputing  the  priority 
of  right  to  some  desirable  location^ 
strike  and  bite  each  other,  they  seem 
to  enjoy  life  better  than  some  human 
beings  we  have  known. 

There  were  also  many  huge  birds 
which  claimed  an  interest  in  those  rocky 
abodes  of  the  sea.  Great  pelicans  were 
flapping  their  wings,  while  numerous 


Sight-seeing  in  San  Francisco.  121 

gulls  were  resting  on  the  higher  pinna- 
cles or  spreading  their  sails  to  the  ocean 
breeze. 

From  the  Cliff  House  we  passed  up 
to  Sutro  Heights,  and  having  no  de- 
scription of  this  resort,  we  were  agree- 
ably surprised  as  we  entered  the  gate, 
to  find  ourselves  within  what  appeared 
a  beautiful  garden.  Following  a  broad 
walk  which  was  fringed  with  gerani- 
ums, heliotropes,  fuchsias,  pansies  and 
other  flowers  that  were  unusually  large 
and  brilliant,  and  stopping  now  and 
again  to  admire  some  interesting 
statue,  we  passed  along  to  the  right, 
through  a  miniature  park,  where  carven 
deer,  dogs  and  other  animals  were  lying 
on  the  grass,  and  found  ourselves  on  the 
highest  point  where  we  could  look  away 
down  to  the  Cliff  House.  There  was  a 
railing  and  statues  a  short  distance 
apart  all  around  this  height.  After 
resting  a  few  minutes  we  climbed  to 
the  top  of  an  adjoining  building,  when 
one   said,  ''What  a   glorious  view  we 


122  Camping  Out  in  California. 

would  have  of  the  distant  islands  were 
it  not  for  that  bank  of  fog  away  in  the 
western  horizon."  But  the  bank  seem- 
ed to  be  immovable,  and  we  have  that 
view  left  for  some  future  time. 

From  this  height  a  flight  of  stairs  led 
down  the  opposite  side,  and  following 
another  path  we  came  to  a  circle  of  gro- 
tesque images,  which  the  children 
thought  must  be  to  represent  some  of 
the  fairy  tales  they  had  read.  There 
is  also  a  conservatory  here,  which,  al- 
though inferior  to  the  one  at  the  Park, 
is  filled  with  rare  and  beautiful  plants 
and  flowers,  interspersed  with  statu- 
ary. 

At  the  door  Harry  cried,  ''Oh,  look, 
how  pretty  the  sea  and  everything  else 
is,  it  is  red  as  if  it  was  a  big  fire." 

Eda  looking  through  the  same  door 
said,  ''Why,  Harry,  it  is  all  a  bright 
green." 

To  me  everything  looked  as  blue  as 
it  does  on  a  "blue  Monday."  But,  so 
it  is  through  life,  the  world  generally 


Sight-seeing  in  San  Francisco.  123 

looks  to  US  about  the  color  of  the  glass 
through,  which  we  view  it. 

For  several  hours  we  wandered 
through  the  labyrinthine  paths  and 
found  new  beauty  in  art  and  nature  on 
every  side.  Here  it  would  be  a  l^rge 
group  of  dahlias  of  every  shade  and 
color  and  magnificent  in  size,  and  at 
the  next  turn  a  bed  of  gorgeovis  hued 
gladioli  greeted  our  admiring  eyes; 
and  when  compelled  to  leave  we  w^on- 
dered  how  long  we  could  have  roamed 
through  this  attractive  place  finding 
pleasant  things  to  admire. 

But  we  could  not  tarry  all  the  time 
in  the  pleasing  portions  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, so  turned  to  that  w^iich  is  con- 
sidered the  "plague  spot,"  Chinatown. 

Passing  from  the  bustling  throngs  of 
English-clad  people  of  Market  and 
Kearny  streets  to  the  foreign  dressed 
crowds  of  Dupont,  had  it  not  been  that 
the  buildings  were  decidedly  American^ 
we  could  easily  have  imagined  ourselves 
in  another  land. 


124  Camping  Out  in  California. 

Among  the  many  foreign  curios  dis- 
played in  the  shop  windows  we  noticed 
pagodas,  vessels,  and  other  articles  of 
carved  ivory  which  were  very  beautiful. 

The  china  was  as  delicately  tinted 
as  the  petals  of  a  rose  and  so  frail  and 
delicate  that  it  seemed  as  if  it  might  be 
crushed  as  easily  as  an  egg  shell. 

We  stepped  into  one  of  the  art  stores 
and  were  disappointed,  for  the  choice 
pictures  were  but  an  elaboration  of  the 
ones  to  be  seen  on  their  fans  and  tea- 
chests.  Their  drugs  and  medicines 
were  in  packages  instead  of  bottles,  and 
the  customers  undergoing  operations  in 
the  barber-shop  had  a  very  ludicrous 
a-ppearance,  and  the  younger  members 
of  our  party  thought  nothing  less  than 
a  photograph  could  do  them  justice. 

There  were  children  playing  on  the 
streets  who  were  dressed  like  the  older 
persons,  but  they  were  neither  so  noisy 
or  as  obtrusive  as  "Young  America.*' 

In  a  little  room  under  a  store  we  saw 
a  mother    playing  with    a   tiny   babe 


iSight-seeing  in  Saa  Francisco.  125- 

while  another  small  child  was  leaning 
against  her  knee. 

A  fond  father  brought  out  his  two 
year  old  son  for  us  to  admire.  In 
answer  to  the  query  if  he  could  talk,  he 
proudly  answered  in  the  affirmative, 
but  when  asked  if  the  child  could  speak 
our  language,  he  shook  his  head  say- 
ing ''He  no  sabe  'Melican." 

Among  the  vegetables  we  saw  niany 
that  were  new  to  us;  one  resembling  the 
seed-pod  of  milkweed,  we  were  told  was 
a  Chinese  cucumber.  In  their  meat 
market  we  saw  meat  and  fish  that  had 
been  shipped  from  China,  and  a  large 
roasted  hog  was  hanging  there  Trom 
which  they  were  cutting  slices  for  cus- 
tomers. It  might  have  been  very 
choice  but  we  instantly  lost  all  desire 
for  roast  pork. 

We  noticed  some  objects  resembling 
biscuits  that  were  for  sale.  One  of  the 
girls  exclaimed ''Biscuits  for  breakfast;'' 
at  the  same  time  she  touched  one,  and 
her  finger  went  nearly  through  it,  she 


126  Camping  Out  in  California. 

said  ''Oh,  I  don't  want  any  of  them.'' 
We  did  not  have  time  to  go  to  their 
theatre  or  ''Joss  house,"  hut  we  visited 
the  Bon  Ton  restaurant.  It  was  finely 
ornamented  with  hright  and  shining 
brass  work  and  the  large  chandeliers 
were  sparkling  with  many  prisms.  In- 
stead of  chairs  they  used  stools  and  in 
each  room  was  a  recess  and  two  wooden 
pillows.  These  recesses  must  be  very 
convenient  for  "John"  when  he  eats 
too  hard  or  too  much  he  can  lie  down 
:and  rest. 

We  saw  them  gathered  around  their 
.'gaming  table  gesticulating  vehemently, 
but  we  saw  neither  whiskey-bottles  nor 
-glasses,  nor  did  we  hear  the  loud  up- 
roar or  oaths  which  issue  from  the 
gambling  dens  of  those  who  say  "The 
Chinese  must  go." 

Leaving  Chinatown  we  returned  to 
Market  street,  and  on  our  way  to  the 
wharf  we  noticed  the  wonderful  Palace 
Hotel.  This  is  a  magnificent  building, 
said   to   be   the   largest   hotel   in    the 


Sightseeing  in  San  Francisco.  127 

world,  having  accommodations  for 
twelve  hundred  guests.  It  is  seven 
stories  high,  and  three  hundred  and 
fifty  by  two  hundred  and  seventy  feet 
on  the  ground  and  it  cost  about  five^ 
hundred  thousand  dollars  to  furnish  it. 
The  cost  of  the  building  was  one  mil- 
lion seven  hundred  and  fifty  thousand 
dollars,  and  the  ground  on  which  it 
stands  cost  one  million,  making  an  ag- 
gregate of  three  million  two  hundred 
and  fifty  thousand  dollars. 

In  passing  along  the  principal  streets 
we  were  continually  jostled  by  the 
crowds,  some  of  whom  were  moving 
with  us  and  some  in  the  opposite  di- 
rection, while  the  street-cars,  drays  and 
carriages  were  so  crowded  together  that 
one  would  naturally  expect  a  continual 
coming  in  contact  with  each  other,  re- 
sulting in  broken  limbs,  frightened 
horses,  and  splintered  vehicles.  But 
strange  to  say  there  was  nothing  of  the 
kind.  They  moved  among  each  other 
with  nearly   as    much   system   as   the 


128  Camping  OiU  in  California. 

stars  move  in  the  heavens.  Horses 
as  truly  as  drivers  seemed  to  under- 
stand the  art  of  moving  through  the 
unoccupied  spaces  with  care  and  cau- 
tion. It  was  interesting  to  watch  the 
stream  of  men,  women  and  children 
that  marched  with  a  continual  tramp 
down  Market  street  toward  the  ferries. 

We  were  in  the  crowd  but  felt  so 
'Small  we  could  scarcely  find  ourselves 
until  we  were  on  the  deck  of  the 
steamer,  and  startled  by  the  loud  voice 
of  the  engine  as  the  boat  pulled  out 
from'  the  wharf. 

Before  lea  ;ing  the  landing,  however, 
our,  young  fellow-travelers  went  on 
board  the  Victoria,  a  large  ship  about 
three  hundred  feet  long.  The  seamen 
were  very  kind  and  gentlemanly,  tak- 
ing them  around  through  the  great 
craft  that  travels  the  'Vild  and  stormy 
main.'* 

Will  said  he  would  like  to  be  a  sailor, 
but  Harry  thought  there  was  danger  of 
getting  upset  over  a  whale's  back. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

SANTA    CLARA    VALLEY.    * 

Returning  to  San  Rafael  we  bade  our 
friends  farewell  and,  after  a  half  day's 
drive,  were  on  our  old  gypsy  camping 
ground  in  the  suburb  of  Petaluma. 

On  the  following  day  we  had  a  pleas- 
ant drive  to  Sonoma,  a  neat  little  berg 
in  one  of  California's  pleasant  valleys. 

Here  Linnie  was  fortunate  enough 
to  find  an  aunt  whom  she  had  never 
met  before.  We  remained  in  Sonoma 
until  the  next  day  so  that  Linnie  might 
enjoy  a  pleasant  visit  with  her  new 
found  cousins,  who  seemed  to  be  very 
amiable  young  people.  When  we  were 
ready  to  resume  our  journey  Linnie 
told  us  not  to  wait  for  her,  that  she 
would  overtake  us  after  a  while. 

We  passed  over  a  low  mountain,  and 


130  Camphig  Out  m  California. 

about  noon  reached  the  Napa  Valley. 
As  the  sun  was  very  hot  we  camped  in 
the  shadow  of  a  large  oak,  and  had 
barely  made  read}^  our  lunch,  when 
Linnie  and  one  of  her  cousins  drove  up 
in  a  fine  buggy,  and  we  all  enjoyed  ''a 
feast  of  fat  things/'  (squirrels  and 
quails)  which  our  persevering  hunts- 
men had  killed  while  crossing  the 
range.  Linnie  spent  a  portion  of  the 
afternoon  in  riding  through  the  princi- 
pal streets  of  Napa,  and  then  the  young 
cousins  bade  each  other  farewell. 

From  Napa  we  went  to  Vallejo. 
Most  of  the  way  we  found  the  road 
good;  at  one  place,  however,  several 
men  were  repairing  a  bridge,  and  we 
were  compelled  to  take  another  road 
and  go  a  number  of  miles  out  of  the 
regular  way  and  over  a  high  hill,  where 
wo  found  the  road  to  be  very  rough, 
although  passing  through  a  beautiful 
neighborhood  with  an  excellent  class 
of  buildings. 

When  we  reached  Vallejo   the   sun 


Santa  Clara  Valley.  131 

was  going  down,  and  we  began  to  look 
around  for  a  place  to  camp.  As  soon 
as  our  canvas  cover  was  discovered, 
children  came  from  all  directions,  and 
escorted  us  to  a  corner  lot  where  an  old 
building  had  been  torn  down,  and  where 
the  rank  and  tangled  weeds  made  it  ap- 
pear like  a  little  swamp.  By  the  time 
our  tent  was  up  we  were  surrounded  by 
boys  and  girls.  They  climbed  in  the 
wagon,  crowded  into  the  tent,  and  some 
perched  themselves  on  the  horses' 
backs;  and,  judging  from  their  ques- 
tions as  to  where  we  came  from  and 
where  we  were  going,  we  concluded 
that  they  had  never  had  much  experi- 
ence in  regard  to  camp  life.  Some  of 
them  remained  with  us  until  about  ten 
o'clock,  and  then  went  home  by  the 
glowing  light  of  the  twinkling  stars. 

The  next  morning  we  visited  the 
navy-yard  on  Mare  Island,  and  saw 
some  wonderful  machinery,  piles  of  can- 
non balls  and  many  large  guns.  We  also 
saw  the  cannon  that  sank  the  Alabama. 


132  Camping  Out  in  California,. 

Several  war  vessels  were  in  the  har- 
bor apparently  all  ready  for  action; 
but  we  hoped  that  they  might  die  of 
old  age  and  go  to  decay  without  an 
opportunity  of  fighting  other  men-of- 
w^ar.  Besides  the  sectional  floating 
dock,  wliich  to  us  was  quite  a  curiosity ^ 
there  were  many  other  places  of  inter- 
est where  we  might  have  spent  a  much 
longer  time  with  profit  and  enjoyment. 
Returning  to  our  tent  late  in  the  after- 
noon we  drove  four  miles  to  Benicia^ 
another  prosperous  town  situated  on 
the  Bay.  Here  we  were  shown  an 
open  field  that  was  covered  with  fresh 
grass,  and  told  that  it  was  free  for 
campers.  In  this  field  we  Avere  soon 
comfortably  situated,  while  our  horses 
were  feasting  on  the  rich  grass,  looking 
as  happy  as  though  they  had  discover- 
ed a  bonanza. 

Harry  found  a  bird's  nest  with  four 
tiny,  unfledged  birds,  and  we  all  ac- 
cepted an  invitation  to  go  and  see  them, 
he  leading  the  way.     But  the  old  birds 


Santa  Clara  Valley.  133 

did  not  enjoy  our  visit,  they  flew  around 
our  heads  and  cried  piteously,  hegging 
us  to  leave,  despite  Harry's  repeated 
assurances  that  they  should  not  be 
harmed. 

'  After  the  sun  went  down  the  wind 
began  to  blow  furiously,  and  in  a  short 
time  it  wa-?  very  cold. 

About  the  middle  of  the  night,  it 
seemed  that  our  tent  would  ''make  to 
itself  wings  and  fly  away,''  and  leave 
us  unprotected  from  the  roaring  temp- 
est. The  boys  put  the  break  on  the 
wagon  to  keep  it  from  being  blown 
into  San  Pablo  Bay.  Will  drove  the 
stakes  of  our  tent  farther  into  the 
ground  so  as  to  make  it  more  secure. 
But  the  wind  continued  to  blow  with 
more  and  more  force,  until  near  the 
dawn  of  day,  when  the  stakes  on  the 
windward  side  drew  out,  and  our  tent 
came  down,  fluttering  like  the  torn  sails 
of  a  vessel  in  a  severe  storm. 

There  we  were  in  the  cold  wind  and 
the  darkness  of  night,  endeavoring  to 


134  Camping  Out  in  California. 

re-establish  around  us  the  walls  that 
had  fallen  to  the  earth. 

In  our  efforts  to  erect  our  demolished 
tent,  which  fluttered  over  our  heads 
like  a  vicious  bird  of  pre}^  seeking  to 
devour  its  victims,  we  realized  that  too 
much  sail  was  not  good  for  weak  ves- 
sels, as  we  w^ere  pulled  from  our  moor- 
ings, jostled  against  each  other  and 
tumbled  on  the  ground,  ''heaps  on 
heaps." 

We  Avere  chilled  and  nearly  dis- 
couraged, but  Will  said,  ''If  at  first 
you  don't  succeed,  try,  try  again;"  so 
we  continued  trying  until  we  succeeded,, 
but  our  tent  had  several  such  windows 
(wind  doors)  as  the  Kansas  pre-emptor 
has  in  his  cabin  when  he  goes  to  prove 
up  on  his  land. 

During  the  excitement,  the  bottle 
which  contained  our  antidote  for  snake 
bites  was  broken,  and  our  tent  and 
bedding  became  permeated  with  the 
contents.  If  a  stranger  had  happened 
along  at  that  time,  and  seen  our  per- 


Santa  Clara  Valley.  135 

formances  and  smelt  the  medicine,  he 
would  not  have  taken  us  for  Good 
Templars. 

As  for  snakes,  we  are  inclined  to 
think  they  all  left,  we  did  not  see  any 
for  several  days.  After  we  had  made 
the  tent  secure  the  grey  light  of  morn- 
ing could  be  seen  and  being  hungry  we 
preferred  breakfast  to  sleep.  That 
morning  we  were  in  no  hurry  to  start, 
as  the  wind  continued  to  blow  and  we 
did  not  feel  very  vivacious  after,  (as 
Will  said,)  having  such  a  spree  in  the 
night. 

About  the  middle  of  the  forenoon  we 
drove  our  team  on  board  the  ferry- 
boat and  were  on  our  way  to  Martinez. 

As  we  left  the  wharf  we  noticed  the 
huge  boat  coming  from  Port  Costa 
bringing  a  long  train  of  cars.  It  in- 
deed seemed  wonderful  that  a  train  of 
twenty  or  thirty  cars,  all  loaded  with 
freight  and  hundreds  of  passengers, 
could  run  on  a  boat  and  sail  in  a  few 
moments   across   the  bay  to  continue 


136  Campirtg  Out  in  California. 

its  lightning  speed  on  the  other  side. 

After  landing  at  Martinez  and  driv- 
ing through  the  town  which  seemed 
like  a  tidy  little  place  of  three  or  four 
hundred  inhabitants,  we  stopped  for 
dinner. 

On  the  left  side  of  the  road  the  fire 
had  just  swept  over  a  vast  region  burn- 
ing fences  and  large  quantities  of  hay 
and  grain. 

We  built  our  camp-fire  on  the  burnt 
ground  a  short  distance  from  the  road, 
where  any  person  could  see  that  it  was 
impossible  for  it  to  do  any  damage,  yet 
several  men  and  one  or  two  women 
came  from  their  houses  and  fields  tell- 
ing us  to  ''look  out  for  that  fire." 

And  from  passing  wagons  we  were 
cautioned  to  "be  careful  of  that  fire." 
One  said,  "be  sure  and  put  out  every 
spark."  We  soon  learned  why  we  were 
so  sharply  cautioned  and  warned.  The 
fire  that  had  just  swept  hundreds  of 
acres  was  started  by  some  careless 
campers.     Had  we   known    the   bitter 


Santa  Clara  Valley.  137 

feeling  that  existed  against  campers  we 
would  not  have  dared  kindle  a  fire  on 
any  consideration. 

On  the  right-hand  side  of  the  road 
was  a  neat  farm  cottage  standing  in 
the  midst  of  a  flourishing  vineyard. 
Eda  took  a  pail  and  went  through  the 
vineyard  to  the  house  for  some  water 
and  soon  returned  bringing  instead  of 
water  the  pail  full  of  milk  which  the 
lady  of  the  house  gave  her. 

May  that  kind  good  woman  live  long 
and  have  all  the  rich  milk  and  cream 
she  desires.  We  had  a  good  old-fash- 
ioned bread  and  milk  lunch,  and  the 
boys  drank  what  was  left.  They  said 
it  tasted  so  good  they  thought  it  must 
be  Jersey  cow^s  milk. 

After  lunch  we  had  driven  only  a 
few  miles  before  we  noticed  a  decided 
change  in  the  weather.  Our  horses 
were  wet  with  sweat  and  the  only  fan 
we  had  was  kept  in  vigorous  motion. 

While  passing  over  a  hill,  Ben  w^ent 
to  a  cottage  that  was  perhaps  an  hun- 


138  Camping  Out  in  California. 

dred  yards  from  the  road  for  some 
water.  He  passed  around  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  house  and  we  waited  in 
the  hot  sun  several  minutes  wondering 
why  he  was  so  delayed 

After  awhile  we  saw  him  running 
towards  the  wagon  with  the  empty  pail 
and  a  vicious  dog  behind  him.  He 
forgot  all  about  the  gate  and  came  the 
nearest  way,  going  over  the  picket 
fence  with  the  agility  of  a  cat  in  the 
same  situation.  Just  as  he  cleared  the 
fence  a  young  lady  called  the  dog,  at 
the  same  time  telling  Ben  to  come  for 
the  water  as  the  dog  would  not  bite 
him. 

The  other  boys  and  the  girls  remind- 
ed Ben  occasionally  of  his  hast}^  retreat 
and  his  peculiar  style  of  climbing 
fences. 

A  little  before  sundown  we  reached 
Danville,  situated  in  a  rich  farming 
country  filled  with  an  enterprising  and 
religious  class  of  people. 

While  driving  through  the  town  we 


Santa  Clara  Valley.  139 

saw  a  tall  gentleman  of  clerical  ap- 
pearance, and  one  of  our  company  ask- 
ed him  if  he  could  give  us  information 
as  to  where  we  could  find  a  comforta- 
ble place  to  camp  over  the  Sabbath. 

He  answered  in  the  affirmative  and 
in  a  few  moments  obtained  permission 
from  one  of  the  trustees  for  us  to  camp 
in  the  school  yard  beneath  a  delightful 
grove  of  walnut  and  locust  trees. 

The  next  day  we  heard  this  gentle- 
man preach  an  unusually  thrilling  and 
touching  sermon  which  gave  us  to  un- 
derstand why  he  had  been  such  a  suc- 
cessful and  popular  pastor.  This  broth- 
er had  just  resigned  his  work  on  ac- 
count of  his  health,  and,  if  I  remember 
correctly,  this  was  his  farewell  sermon. 

During  a  pastorate  of  ten  years  he 
had  been  instrumental  in  building  up 
a  strong  self-sustaining  church  of  near- 
ly one  hundred  communicants  who 
loved  him  as  a  faithful  minister  and  a 
valiant  soldier  of  the  cross  of  Christ. 
We  shall  not  soon  forget  the  prayer  of 


140  Camping  Out  in  California. 

this  resigning  pastor  as  he  poured  out 
his  heart  to  God  in  behalf  of  the  ''dear 
little  church." 

His  successor  was  on  the  field  and 
although  we  did  not  hear  him  preach 
we  were  convinced  that  he  was  "a 
w^orkman  who  needeth  not  to  be 
ashamed."  We  heard  many  speak  in 
highest  terms  of  the  new  pastor  as 
well  as  the  old. 

Several  of  the  people  visited  us  at 
our  tent  bringing  us  milk,  fruit  and 
other  luxuries. 

While  we  were  conversing  with  these 
Christian  friends  we  came  to  the  con- 
clusion that  the  minister  did  not  de- 
serve all  the  credit  for  the  advancement 
of  the  church.  While  it  is  true  that 
a  good  pastor  is  sure  to  elevate  the 
flock,  it  is  no  less  true  that  a  good 
flock  will  elevate  the  pastor.  We  have 
known  weak  and  uneducated  congrega- 
tions to  whom  the  ministrations  of  a 
Spurgeon,  or  a  Talmage  would  be  ac- 
ceptable only  for  a  short  time. 


Santa  Clara  Valley.  141 

In  many  such  churches  the  people 
are  unthankful  and  calculated  to  blunt 
the  energies,  deaden  the  sensibilities 
and  extinguish  the  fire  in  the  soul  of 
their  pastor. 

The  next  morning  we  were  early  on 
our  way  and  found  the  road  so  good 
that  our  horses  could  trot  most  of  the 
distance. 

For  several  miles  the  broad  thorough- 
fare was  walled  on  either  side  by  sym- 
metrical trees  planted  in  the  long  ago^ 
and  perhaps  by  hands  that  are  now 
beneath  the  sod.  The  air  was  cool  and 
bracing,  and  beautiful  birds  greeted  us 
with  their  morning  carols.  Great  drops 
of  dew  that  glittered  in  the  morning 
light  reflecting  the  rainbow's  beauty 
were  hanging  not  only  on  either  side, 
but  also  over  our  heads,  while  the  sun 
was  carefully  wiping  the  tears  from  the 
sweet  and  dimpled  faces  of  the  flowers 
that  appeared  from  time  to  time. 

A  ride  through  a  strange  but  beauti- 
ful country  while   bathed  in  the   fra- 


142  Camping  Out  in   Caiifomia. 

grance  of  a  sweet  summer  morning  and 
surrounded  by  the  works  of  Nature's 
God  and  the  delights  of  a  balmy  Sab- 
bath enriched  with  heavenly  incense 
still  fresh  in  the  mind  is  glorious  be- 
yond description  of  tongue  or  pen. 
New  objects  for  admiration  and  con- 
templation appeared  one  after  another^ 
broad  fields,  baling  and  threshing  ma- 
chines in  operation,  loaded  fruit  trees, 
cattle  and  sheep  grazing  in  the  pas- 
tures, and  distant  hills  apparently 
coming  nearer  and  lifting  their  heads 
as  if  to  look  down  upon  us. 

We  also  passed  farm  houses  of  dif- 
ferent forms  and  colors,  many  were  un- 
painted  and  gray,  but  surrounded  by 
much  that  is  calculated  to  make  life 
both  blessed  and  pleasurable. 

Occasionally  in  the  yard,  through 
the  window  or  open  door  we  would 
catch  a  passing  glimpse  of  faces  that 
were  evidences  of  happy  homes. 

The  aged  grandmother  with  lint- 
white  hair  and  a  smile  on  her  serene 


Santa  Clara  Valley.  143 

countenance,  a  pleasant  little  wife  in 
the  garden  conversing  jocundly  with 
her  stalwart  husband,  pretty  blue-eyed 
girls  adorned  with  blue  ribbons,  play- 
ing in  the  shade  and  occasionally  look- 
ing up  among  the  blue  plums  and  per- 
haps into  the  blue  sky  beyond;  a  tow 
headed  baby  in  front  of  the  door  tod- 
dling to  meet  a  fond  father  who  now 
with  his  strong  arms  tosses  it  high  into 
the  air.  And  the  boys!  they  seemed  to 
be  everywhere,  in  the  road,  in  the  field, 
on  the  fences,  and  along  the  streams, 
some  walking,  some  riding,  and  others 
hunting. 

We  noticed  one  little  fellow  with  a 
shot  gun  stooping  low  as  he  crept  cau- 
tiously along  a  fence  seeking  an  oppor- 
tunity to  shoot  a  happy  little  squirrel. 

After  awhile  we  realized  that  the 
dew-drops  have  all  vanished  and  not 
one  to  be  seen,  the  sun  shines  with 
greater  strength,  and  our  horses  object 
to  traveling  as  swiftly  as  they  did  in 
the  cool  of  the  morning. 


144  Camping  Out  in  California. 

In  the  afternoon  our  road  winds  back 
and  forth  among  hills  and  little  valleys 
and  ofttimes  across  a  brook. 

While  passing  quietly  along  the  foot 
of  a  hill,  we  were  startled  by  a  loud 
scream,  and  looking  behind  us  and  on 
higher  ground  Ave  beheld  a  steam 
engine  followed  by  a  train  of  cars  flying 
directly  toward  us,  and  the  next 
moment  went  shooting  past  with  such 
arrow  like  velocity  that  the  passengers 
through  the  open  windows  appeared 
like  spirits  passing  away  to  another 
world. 

Our  horses  threw  up  their  heads, 
and  setting  their  ears  forward  began 
to  dance,  but  scarcely  had  time  to  be 
frightened  before  the  iron  horse  was 
out  of  sight,  and  the  cars  like  winged 
monsters,  that  lived  ages  before  the 
creation  of  man,  flew  away  beyond  a 
hill  chashing  each  other  onward  in 
their  flight. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  we  came  to  a 
stream  and  a  level  spot  on  which  we 


Santa  Clara  Valley.  145 

concluded  to  set  up  out  tent  and  remain 
during  the  night. 

The  sun  was  shining  through  a  rose- 
colored  cloud  that  seemed  so  soft  and 
delicate,  that  we  could  only  compare  it 
to  the  robe  which  some  angel  had  cast 
off  while  passing  through  the  gates  of 
the  evening  star. 

But  it  was  not  an  angel's  robe  nor 
any  royal  vesture  that  had  blown  from 
some  distant  world  of  light,  but  simply 
an  earthly  fabric  in  which  were  woven 
the  dew  drops  that  hung  over  our  heads 
in  the  morning  and  passed  away  into 
the  invisible  even  while  we  were  gazing 
upon  them. 

Our  young  friends  could  scarcely 
realize  that  the  morning  dew  drops 
were  in  yonder  beautiful  cloud  so  high 
in  the  heavens  and  wonderfully  ethere- 
al ized,  consequently  a  few  words  of 
instruction,  together  with  the  following 
w  ords  of  the  poet  were  necessary  for 
their  satisfaction. 


146  Camping  Out  in  California. 

'*  Though  one  by  one  the  pearly  drops  of  morning, 
From  drooping  flowers,  on  viewless  pinions  rise, 
We'll  see  them  yet  the  gorgeous  clouds  adorning. 
With  glowing  arches  of  celestial  dyes. 
Though   one  by  one  the  friends  we  fondly  cherish. 
Withdraw    from  ours  the  cold  and  trembling  hand, 
And  leave  us  sorrowful,  they  do  not  peiish. 
They  yet  shall  greet  us  in  a  fairer  land." 


The  next  day  we  reached  the  boom- 
ing city  of  San  Jose,  and  found  a  grand 
camping  place  in  a  vacant  lot  beneath 
a  grove  of  oaks. 

Here  we  remained  two  days  and 
then  on  a  warm  afternoon  we  drove  to 
Los  Gatos,  a  distance  of  twelve  miles, 
and  through  the  world  renowned  Santa 
Clara  valley. 

On  our  way  we  stopped  at  Santa 
Clara,  hoping  to  see  a  lady  friend,  but 
unfortunately  she  was  not  at  home. 

Arriving  at  Los  Gatos  a  little  be- 
fore dark,  we  were  granted  permission 
to  camp  on  the  school  lot  where  a 
new  school  house  was  in  course  of 
erection. 

As  the  darkness  gathered  around  us 


Santa  Clara  Valley.  147 

we  heard  the  music  of  a  church  hell, 
and  we  though  it  had  a  Presbyterian 
tone,  and  we  were  not  mistaken  as 
some  of  our  party  responded  to  the 
invitation  and  found  an  interesting 
young  people's  meeting  presided  over 
by  one  of  the  San  Francisco  pastors, 
the  Los  Gatos  pastor  being  absent. 
The  next  morning  our  city  brother  and 
his  better-half  called  at  our  tent.  We 
enjoyed  their  visit  very  much  and 
spent  about  an  hour  in  pleasant  con- 
versation. The  metropolitan  Bishop 
gave  us  valuable  information  concern- 
ing the  road  across  the  mountains  to 
Santa  Cruz  as  he  had  traveled  with 
horse  and  buggy  the  same  journey  that 
we  were  about  to  undertake. 

It  was  late  in  the  afternoon  when  we 
left  Los  Gatos  and  began  to  move 
slowly  up  the  well  known  and  exten- 
sively traveled  Santa  Cruz  mountains. 

After  climbing  several  miles,  we 
heard  the  heavy  and  hoarse  breathing 
and  wheezing  of  the  iron  horse  as  he 


148  Camping  Out  in  California. 

came  after  us  puffing  and  coughing  as 
if  nearly  exhausted  with  his  load  of 
four  cars  hesides  passengers  and  freight. 
At  this  point  the  wagon  road  is 
perhaps  two  hundred  feet  above  the 
railroad,  consequently  we  could  see  the 
train  a  long  distance  behind  us,  and 
after  it  had  passed  a  long  distance 
before  us.  It  indeed  seemed  wonderful 
to  behold  a  train  of  cars  thus  climbing 
the  lofty  range,  moving  first  to  the 
right  and  then  to  the  left,  now  clinging 
to  the  almost  perpendicular  wall  and 
passing  beneath  overhanging  rocks, 
now  darting  out  into  a  more  open 
space.  One  moment  bounding  over  a 
deep  chasm,  and  the  next  running  into 
a  tunnel  as  a  fox  runs  into  his  hole  in 
the  earth.  But  such  is  the  ingenuity 
of  man  that  he  travels  by  water  over 
the  dry,  rocky  mountain,  as  well  as  on 
the  ocean  or  river.  A  little  hot  water 
endeavoring  to  get  out  of  prison  to  float 
among  the  sunbeams  is  strong  enough 
to   roll   the   ponderous   engine  and  a 


Skyland  and  Capitola.  149 

train  of  loaded  cars  to  the  summit  of 
a  lofty  mountain. 

On  the  south  side  and  above  the 
track  ran  a  flume  conveying  water  to 
the  valley  below,  and  in  some  places  it 
was  so  high  along  the  perpendicular 
ledges  that  the  boys  could  not  imagine 
how  it  was  possible  for  men,  without 
the  aid  of  a  flying  machine,  to  place  it 
there  and  fasten  it  securely. 

About  the  middle  of  the  afternoon 
we  reached  a  point  called  Skyland,  and 
we  considered  the  name  a  very  appro- 
priate one.  Far  up  in  that  beautiful 
sky  land,  bathed  in  the  mellowed  glory 
of  the  mid  afternoon  sun  that  filled 
the  little  elevated  fields  and  mantled 
the  skyland  groves,  we  paused  a  few 
moments  to  gaze  and  reflect. 

There  we  stood  on  the  very  fringe  of 
the  continent,  looking  out  into  the 
misty  void  in  the  direction  of  the  sink- 
ing sun.  And  as  the  aged  pilgrim 
who  has  about  reached  the  end  of  the 


160  Camping  Out  m  California. 

journey  of  life  looks  back  upon  the 
world  through  which  he  has  passed, 
•and  also  forward  into  the  ocean  of 
eternity  on  whose  very  shore  he  lingers, 
so  we  could  look  back  upon  the  conti- 
nent over  which  we  had  traveled  and 
also  forward  into  the  purple  haze  of  the 
broad  Pacific. 

Behind  and  beneath  .us  lay  the  great 
Santa  Clara  Valley,  and  just  beyond 
the  lofty  Sierras,  while  before  us  we 
seemed  to  be  looking  into  the  impene- 
trable void  as  into  eternity  itself. 

In  this  Skyland  lived  an  aged 
minister  of  the  gospel  who  was  pro- 
claiming the  glad  tidings  of  salvation 
to  those  who  lived  so  near  the  calm 
and  peaceful  heavens.  For  years  he  had 
been  toiling  in  the  lowlands  of  Cali- 
fornia, but  providentially  had  just  been 
called  to  a  higher,  brighter  and 
healthier  land.  But  by  and  by  his 
earthly  work  will  be  completed  and 
then   he   will   be   called   to   come   up 


Skyland  and  Capitola.  151 

higher  still,  and  dwell  in  the  promised 
land  away  beyond  the  blue. 

But  as  the  day  was  passing  and  we 
were  again  going  to  the  ocean  we  dared 
not  linger  longer  on  this  ''delectable 
mountain"  from  whence  the  ''celestial 
city"  seemed  very  near,  consequently 
we  moved  forward  and  the  brake  of  our 
wagon  began  to  grind  on  the  wheels. 

Our  horses,willing  to  take  the  advan- 
tage of  the  down  hill  portion  of  the 
road,  went  bounding  around  sharp 
curves,  and  over  narrow  and  rickety 
bridges  and  along  the  margin  of  deep 
canyons  and  wooded  ravines  leaving  a 
cloud  of  dust  behind.  While  gliding 
down  the  western  slope  of  the  coast 
range  we  passed  through  some  grand 
forests,  with  little  openings  here  and 
there,  in  which  were  bare-headed  chil- 
dren, barking  dogs,  and  cackling  hens. 

We  also  had  a  glimpse  of  the  popu- 
lar "Hotel  de  Redwood,"  where  inva- 
lids  grow   fat   on   pure   spring  water, 


152  Camping  Out  in  California. 

medicated     mountain     air   and    wild 
game. 

About  sundown  we  reached  the  foot 
of  the  mountain  and  pitched  our  tent 
in  a  beautiful  grove  where  a  picnic  had 
been  held  a  few  days  previous. 

Near  by  was  a  large  farm  house 
where  we  secured  a  good  supply  of 
milk,  butter  and  fruit,  to  which  we 
did  ample  justice  as  the  ocean  breeze 
had  again  met  us  and  sharpened  our 
appetites,  and,  at  the  same  time,  giv- 
ing us  a  friendly  feeling  for  the  roar- 
ing fire  which  the  boys  made  for  our 
evening's  entertainment. 

The  next  morning  about  ten  o^clock 
we  reached  Soquel  and  spent  nearly  an 
hour  in  the  paper  mill.  Here  a  large 
number  of  men  were  at  Avork,  some 
attending  to  the  straw  that  was  going 
into  the  machinery,  and  others  carry- 
ing away  the  paper  that  came  out  in 
squares  all  ready  for  use. 

After    leaving    Soquel  we   drove  a 


Skyland  and  Vapitola.  153 

short  distance  on  the  Santa  Cruz  road 
and  then  turned  to  the  left  for  Camp 
Capitola. 

Near  a  little  stream  we  stopped  for 
dinner  and  reached  the  end  of  our  jour- 
ney about  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 
As  we  arrived  at  the  top  of  the  hill  and 
looked  down  on  Capitola  our  young 
friends  were  much  excited. 

The  sandy  shore  was  lined  with  men. 
women,  and  children,  and  playing  in 
the  surf  and  among  the  breaking  bil- 
lows that  gently  rolled  in  upon  the 
beach,  and  then  back  into  the  deep, 
were  scores  of  hilarious  bathers .  The  lit- 
tle ones  were  near  the  shore, so  near  that 
the  retreating  waves  would  leave  them 
like  stranded  fish  endeavoring  to  swim 
on  bare  ground.  Farther  out  among 
the  breakers  were  larger  boys  and  girls 
who  were  just  learning  to  swim,  and 
beyond  these  were  ladies  and  gentle- 
men rising  and  falling  on  the  waves 
with  the  ease  and  gracefulness  of  float- 


164  Camping  Out  in  California. 

ing  water  fowls. 

The  suits  worn  by  the  bathers  were 
of  such  a  variety  of  shade  and  color — 
black,  blue,  and  white,  green,  plaid,  and 
striped — as  to  add  to  the  interest  and 
attraction  of  the  scene. 

After  finding  a  sheltered  place  for 
our  horses  and  putting  up  our  tent  we 
all  went  to  the  beach  and  joined  the 
crowd  of  amphibious  mortals  who  were 
seeking  health  and  enjoying  pleasure. 
In  a  moment  our  youthful  traveling 
companions  had  disappeared  and  as  we 
looked  for  them  both  on  the  land  and 
on  the  sea  we  were  able  only  to  dis- 
cover little  Harry,  in  a  blue  suit,  run- 
ning from  an  approaching  wave;  but 
the  wave  overtook  him  and  rolled  over 
his  head,  and  we  would  have  been 
frightened  had  there  not  been  so  many 
away  beyond.  As  the  wave  went  glid- 
ing back  into  the  ocean,  leaving  Harry 
on  the  smooth  sand, he  knew  for  the  first 
time  what  it  is  to  take  a  sea  bath. 


Skyland  and  Capitola.  155 

It  was  very  amusing  to  see  the  little 
boys  and  girls  follow  the  waves  back 
and  then  run  as  the  next  one  came  in, 
frequently  disappearing  beneath  the 
foaming  brine,  but  only  to  rise  and 
shake  themselves  like  young  ducks 
playing  in  a  meadow  brook.  Those 
little  folks  kept  up  such  a  shouting 
and  laughing  that  we  concluded  the 
salt  water  must  have  a  salutary  effect 
upon  the  youthful  blood. 

But  it  was  more  interesting  to  notice 
the  different  ways  in  which  the  grown 
people  met  the  billows.  Some  would 
retreat  only  to  be  overtaken,  thrown 
from  their  feet,  submerged,  and  then 
left  sprawling  like  lobsters  on  the  sand. 
Others  would  brace  themselves  and 
stand  firm  until  the  wave  passed  over 
them.  Others  would  spring  head  first 
into  it  and  darting  like  an  arrow  through 
it,  come  out  on  the  other  side.  And 
others  would  rise  and  fall  on  the  rolling 
waves  as  easily   and   gracefully  as  the 


156  Camping  Out  in  California. 

gondolas  on  the  water  streets  of  Venice. 

Thus  we  were  reminded  of  the  differ- 
ent ways  in  which  individuals  meet 
trouble.  Some  fall  beneath  and  are 
overwhelmed  by  it,  others  either  stand 
firm  against  it  or  plunge  through  it, 
while  still  others  rise  gently  upon  it  ex- 
claiming: "T  glor}^  in  tribulation  also." 

Many  of  the  young  ladies  and  gentle- 
men were  under  the  training  of  profes- 
sional swimming  teachers.  One  of  these 
professors  had  saved  several  lives.  He 
said  on  one  occasion  he  pulled  a  rich 
man  out  of  the  water  and  as  the  capi- 
talist recovered  consciousness  he  said  to 
his  rescuer:  "You  have  saved  my  life 
and  I  will  reward  you  for  it  as  soon  as  I 
can  change  a  five  dollar  bill." 

The  brave  man  who  liad  risked  his 
own  life  to  save  the  life  of  the  rich  man 
replied:  "You  need  not  go  to  so  much 
trouble  as  I  shall  not  charge  you  any- 
thing." 

It  was  very  interesting  to  watch  the 


Skyland  and  Capitola.  157 

hundreds  of  young  ladies  and  gentlemen 
(who  had  thus  been  trained  in  physical 
navigation)  away  out  fifty  rods  from 
the  shore  playing  hide  and  seek  with 
the  gently  rolling  waves. 

They  seemed  as  familiar  with  the 
black  billows  that  march  with  mournful 
dirge  over  the  ghastly  dead  as  happy 
school  children  are  with  the  little  hills 
of  their  beloved  playground.  Some- 
times one  would  disappear  beneath  the 
surface  and  for  a  moment  our  eyes 
would  glance  to  the  right  and  then  to 
the  left  to  see  where  he  would  come  up. 
They  would  roll  and  plunge  and  chase 
each  other  to  and  fro  without  showing 
the  least  sign  of  fatigue. 

Their  suits  were — like  Joseph's  coat 
— of  many  colors,  but  we  sympathized 
with  those  garments  that  had  suffered 
the  amputation  of  every  limb.  The 
deficiency,  however,  was  made  up  by 
sweet  smiles  and  radiant  blushes. 

The  sand  over  which  the  waves  rolled 


158  Camping  Out  in  California. 

was  smooth  as  a  floor  while  beyond  the 
reach  of  the  surf  it  was  dry  and  of  such 
a  character  as  not  to  soil  the  finest  silk. 

Each  afternoon  we  spent  three  hours 
with  the  crowd  which  was  about  equally 
•divided  between  those  who  were  in  the 
water  and  those  who  were  reclining  in 
the  sand.  We  considered  it  a  delightful 
and  healthy  mode  of  recreation, not  only 
for  the  young  and  vigorous,  but  also 
for  the  aged  and  delicate. 

Several  mornings  we  arose  at  the  first 
glimmer  of  dawn  and  went  two  or  three 
miles  down  the  coast  in  order  to  have 
the  first  selection  of  the  treasures  of  the 
deep  that  had  been  thrown  upon  the 
shore  during  the  night.  The  shells  were 
tinged  with  many  glowing  colors,  while 
the  moss  seemed  so  light  and  downy 
that  we  almost  wondered  if  it  did 
not  grow  on  the  wings  of  beautiful  birds 
that  have  their  homes  on  some  lone  and 
unknown  isle  of  the  sea. 

One  kind  closelv  resembled  a  feather 


Skyland  and  Capitola.  159 

duster,  while  another  was  of  a  purple 
shade,  and  so  fine  and  delicate  that  a 
small  sprig  properly  arranged  on  the 
surface  of  a  bowl  of  water  had  the 
appearance  of  a  miniature  tree.  A  card 
placed  under  the  floating  sea  feathers 
and  raised  gently  out  of  the  water  has 
stamped  upon  it  a  wonderful  picture  of 
loveliness,  surpassing  the  critical  work 
of  an  experienced  artist. 

In  one  of  our  morning  rambles  on  the 
beach  we  discovered  a  shark  probably 
eight  feet  long,  but  he  was  powerless  to 
harm  us,  having  met  his  fate,  perhaps  as 
Ben  suggested,  in  a  duel  with  a  sword 
fish. 

Towards  night  we  would  see  the  fish- 
ermen going  out  in  their  boats  and  often 
when  they  returned  in  the  morning  the 
cry  would  be  ''we  have  toiled  all  night 
and  taken  nothing."  Then  again  we 
would  see  them  come  in  with  a  boat 
lo€id  of  large  shining  denizens  of  the 
deep. 


160  Camping  Out  in  California. 

During  our  visit  at  Capitola  we  made 
the  acquaintance  of  the  captain  of  one 
of  the  pleasure  yachts  who  told  us 
many  entertaining  and  some  amusing 
stories.  He  said  a  very  romantic  couple 
wished  to  be  united  in  marriage  on  the 
ocean  beyond  the  bounds  of  any  country 
and  he  was  engaged  to  take  them  out  in 
his  yacht.  When  they  came  on  board 
they  were  overflowing  with  mirth  and 
happiness,  and  doubtless  the  lovers 
thought  that  nothing  but  death  could 
ever  separate  them. 

As  the  sails  filled  and  the  boat  began 
to  move  seaward  the  young  lady  ex- 
claimed rapturously,  '^Oh,  George,  isn't 
this  just  too  lovely?  I  wish  we  could 
sail  on  and  on  forever."  And  the  young 
man  made  reply  as  ardently  as  a  lover 
should  on  such  an  occasion. 

But  soon  the  little  vessel  began  to  roll 
in  the  waters,  rising  and  falling  on  the 
waves,  and  silence  crept  on  apace  and 
also  the  sensation  upon  which  neither 


Skyland  and  Capitola.  161 

romance  nor  love  has  the  least  effect. 

Presently  the  young  lady  bowed  her 
head  and  George  anxiously  asked,  '^Dar- 
ling, do  you  love  me  now  ? ' '  She  answered 
^'Yes,  dear,  my  love  is  intense.  I  can- 
not describe  it.  Indeed  my  heart  seems 
ready  to  burst  with  love  to  you,  George, 
but  the  very  thought  of  being  married 
overcomes  me." 

In  a  few  moments  George  was  seized 
with  the  same  intense  and  indescribable 
feeling  and  the  young,  lovely  and  loving 
couple  withdrew  from  each  others'  near 
presence  by  mutual  consent;  and  when, 
the  hour  of  the  ceremony  came  they 
utterly  refused  to  be  married  and 
begged  to  go  home  to  their  mothers. 

They  desired  no  more  sailing  on  and 
on  together,  but  returned  to  the  shore 
with  single  blessedness  and  also  a  better 
idea  of  matrimony  on  the  deep,  and 
were  willing  to  be  married  in  a  more 
prosaic  mode. 

Among  the  pleasure  seekers  at  Capi- 


162  Camping  Out  in  California. 

tola  were  the  members  of  a  brass  band 
from  one  of  the  inland  towns.  They 
were  accompanied  by  their  female 
friends  and  judging  from  the  noisy 
merriment  which  pervaded  their  camp 
until  long  after  midnight,  they  were  a 
jovial  company. 

When  the  holy  and  beautiful  Sabbath 
dawned  a  minister  who  was  there  for 
his  health  asked  permission  to  hold  ser- 
vices, but  was  politely  informed  that 
they  usually  had  skating  or  dancing  on 
the  Sabbath.  He  finally  succeeded  in 
obtaining  the  skating  rink  by  agreeing 
to  take  a  collection  to  pay  for  the  use 
of  it. 

Notices  were  posted  throughout  the 
camp  and  out  of  the  hundreds  at  Capi- 
tola  perhaps  fifty  attended  the  service. 

During  that  beautiful  Lord's  day  pleas- 
ure and  fishing  parties  left  on  the  yachts 
and  sail  boats,  larger  crowds  gathered  on 
the  beach  at  the  hours  for  bathing,  the 
band  played  its  gayest  airs,  and  young 


Skyland  and  Capitola.  16 

girls  went  strolling  away  with  dudes 
until  we  felt  compelled  to  ask  ^ 'where 
are  the  mothers?" 

While  standing  in  the  light  of  the 
sweet  Lord's  day  and  looking  over  the 
crowd  of  gay  pleasure  seekers  we  saw 
many  who  nottvithstanding  their  out- 
ward enj  oyment  and  apparent  happiness 
had  an  anxious  and  careworn  look,  which 
betokened  sadness  of  heart  and  the  in- 
ternal fires  of  grief. 

As  the  beautiful  bells  of  the  night- 
shade cannot  remove  the  poisonous  na- 
ture of  the  plant,  so  can  neither  laugh- 
ter nor  mirth  drive  sadness  and  re- 
morse from  the  heart.  ^'I  said  of  laugh- 
ter. It  is  mad;  and  of  mirth,  What  do- 
cth  it?" 

After  noticing  for  some  time  the 
young  people  who  were  merrily  flitting 
to  and  fro,  like  gaudy  butterflies  among 
garden  trees  and  flowers,  we  looked  out 
over  the  incoming  tide  and  waves. 
Near  the  shore  the  billows  were  streaked 


164  Camphtg  Out  in  California. 

and  grim  with  sand  and  mud  washed 
up  from  the  bottom  of  the  sea.  And 
then,  while  standing  between  the  Bible 
picture  and  the  great  reality  which  it  was 
intended  to  represent,  we  found  more 
meaning  than  ever  before  in  the  words 
of  the  prophet:  ^The  wicked  are  like 
the  troubled  sea,  when  it  cannot  rest, 
whose  waters  cast  up  mud  and  dirt; 
there  is  no  peace  for  the  wicked,  saith 
my  God." 

I  have  no  doubt  but  that  very  night 
at  Capitola,  there  was  many  a  sigh 
from  the  depths  of  the  immortal  soul 
and  many  a  silent  tear  on  the  sleeper's 
cheek. 

As  the  shadows  of  night  gathered 
around  us,  the  revelers  became  more 
boisterous.  Loud  talking  and  laughing 
and  music  and  the  discharge  of  firearms 
lasted  until  nearly  daylight,  disturbing 
the  rest  of  the  more  quiet  and  those 
who  suffered  from  sickness. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

G.    A.    K.    KEUNIONS. 

The  next  morning  we  concluded  to 
move  to  ''Camp  Alhambra,"  a  quiet 
little  resort  just  across  the  San  Lorenzo 
River,  south  of  Santa  Cruz.  Here  we 
pitched  our  tent  on  a  spot  of  level 
ground  covered  with  soft  grass  about 
forty  feet  above  the  beach.  We  found 
this  place  far  superior  to  Capitola.  No 
saloons,  consequently  everything  quiet, 
orderly  and  pleasant.  The  proprietor 
(Mr.  Hall)  seemed  like  an  upright  and 
accommodating  gentleman. 

Here  we  could  rest  in  peace  without 
being  startled  by  horrid  yells,  bitter 
oaths  and  discharging  pistols.  Here 
we  could  look  upon  and  contemplate 
the  works  of  God,  without  being  com- 
pelled to  behold  scenes  that  are  calcu 


166  Cc^mping  Out  in  California. 

lated  to   bring   tears   to  the  eyes  and 
leave  dark  spots  on  the  memory. 

Here  we  could  walk  out  of  our  tent 
in  the  evening  twilight,  and,  looking  up 
into  the  star  spangled  heavens  and  out 
over  the  rolling  deep  and  away  toward 
the  dark  wooded  mountains,  and  listen- 
ing to  the  music  of  nature,  grasp  the 
sentiment  of  the  poet: 

"Cathedral,  boundless  as  our  wonder, 
Whose  quenchless  lamps  the  sun  and  moon  supply ; 

Its  choir,  the  winds  and  waves  ;  its  organ,  thunder; 
Its  dome,  the  sky." 

Here,  after  retiring  to  rest,  we  could 
hear  the  rhythmical  beating  of  the  rising 
tide  against  the  cliff,  and,  at  short  inter- 
vals, discern,  amid  the  roaring  of  the 
waves,  something  like  the  discharge  of 
artillery.  We  thought  it  must  be* 
caused  by  the  breaking  away  of  a  por- 
tion of  the  bank  and  wondered  if  it 
could  break  away  as  far  as  our  tent. 
Then  to  our  mind  came  the  promise, 
^^Hitherto  shalt  thou  come  but  no  fur- 


G.  A.  R.  Reunions.  167 

ther;  and  here  shall  thy  proud  waves 
be  stayed," 

In  the  morning,  when  we  visited  the 
shore,  we  found  everything  as  calm 
and  peaceful  as  on  the  evening  before, 
and  it  was  sometime  ere  we  learned  the 
cause  of  these  explosions.  There  were 
caves  along  the  cliff,  which  were  worn 
by  the  surging  of  the  wind-tossed  waves, 
and,  at  the  turn  of  the  full  tide,  a  large 
wave  sealed  the  mouth  of  a  cave,  press- 
ing the  atmosphere  before  it  and  the 
explosion  was  caused  by  the  breaking 
of  the  watery  seal. 

Our  young  folks  went  bathing  in  the 
San  Lorenzo  and  thought  it  delightful, 
as  it  was  sheltered  from  the  wind  and 
the  water  was  warmer  than  in  the 
ocean.  In  this  pleasant  place,  the 
river  seemed  alive  with  scores  of  young 
people,  who  were  not  backward  in  man- 
ifesting the  exhilarating  effects  of  the 
salt  water  and  sea  air  upon  the  youth- 
ful blood.     Some  were  in  deep  water 


168  Camping  Out  in  California. 

playing  with  apparent  ease,  occasionally 
disappearing  for  a  moment,  and  then 
coming  up  in  another  place  to  fill  their 
lungs  with  fresh  air.  Others  were 
climbing  into  boats  and  then  bounding 
out  in  the  water  again,  while  each  en- 
deavored to  excel  all  the  others  in 
laughing  and  talking  the  loudest. 

Several  of  the  girls  were  jumping 
from  the  foot  bridge,  which  was  a  few 
feet  above  the  water.  This  to  Eda 
seemed  like  very  fine  fun,  and  she  con- 
cluded to  join  the  party  and  become  a 
participant  in  the  exercises.  Off  she 
went,  and,  as  she  could  not  swim  and 
the  water  was  quite  deep,  she  had  a 
very  unpleasant  experience  and  prob- 
ably would  have  drowned  had  there 
been  no  others  there.  She  learned, 
however,  the  valuable  lesson  not  to 
jump  into  danger  because  others  do. 

We  drove  out  to  the  Santa  Cruz  light- 
house, which  is  far  inferior  to  the  one 
at  Point  Arena,  but  the  lighthouse  mu- 


G.  A.  R.  Reunions.  169 

seum  is  delightful,  as  it  contains  beau- 
tiful shells  and  wonderful  curiosities 
from  various  parts  of  the  world.  The 
ladies  who  have  charge  of  the  light- 
house were  very  pleasant  and  accom- 
modating. 

August  fifth  was  to  be  a  gala  day  and 
one  long  to  be  remembered  in  Santa 
Cruz,  as  an  invitation  had  been  given 
and  accepted  and  the  Grand  Army  of 
the  Republic  was  to  honor  the  city 
with  its  presence.  At  an  early  hour, 
we  crossed  the  foot  bridge  which  unites 
Camp  Alhambra  and  Santa  Cruz,  and 
in  the  High  School  ground  awaited 
the  arrival  of  the  G.  A.  R.  The  High 
School  building  is  very  fine  and  com- 
mands a  grand  view  of  the  city  of  the 
Holy  Cross  and  also  of  Monterey  Bay. 

Bright  flags  were  waving  in  thebreeze^ 
and  the  streets  were  thronged  with  gaily 
dressed  people.  The  plaza  had  been 
turned  into  a  bower  of  evergreens.  The 
pillars  upholding  the  green  canopy  were 


170  Camping  Out  in  California. 

wreathed  with  flowers .  Each  pillar  was 
of  one  variet}^  of  blossoms,  making  a 
grand  display  of  roses,  dahlias,  gerani- 
ums, chrysanthemums  and  other  floral 
beauties,  too  numerous  to  mention. 

Had  it  not  been  for  the  tables  within 
this  bower,  loaded  with  rich  and  sub- 
stantial provisions,  we  could  have  im- 
agined ourselves  near  some  sylvan  re- 
treat of  the  fairies. 

The  trains  came  in  and  the  soldiers 
received  hearty  cheers,  congratulations 
and  such  poetical  invitations  as: 

**Wil]  you  come  to  the  bower  we  have  shaded  for  you? 
Your  bread  and  your  meat  shall  be  fresh,  sweet  and 

new; 
Then  haste  to  the  plaza,  ye  brave  boys  in  blue, 
And  charge  double  quick  on  the  big  barbecue." 

The  Grand  Army  then  marched  up 
the  hill,  and  the  aged  veterans  forgot 
that  they  were  halt,  lame  or  blind,  as 
with  quick  step  they  kept  time  to  the 
stirring  old  tune  ''Marching  Through 
Georgia,"  and  soon  reached  the  entrance 
to  the  feast.     We  were  thinking  sadly 


G.  A.  R.  Reunions.  171 

of  the  other  brave  boys  who  were  lying 
in  nameless  graves,  when  near  at  hand 
one  soldier  broke  from  the  ranks,  and 
with  a  cry  from  the  heart,  such  as  we 
did  not  think  it  possible  for  a  man  to 
utter,  he  threw  his  arms  around  the 
neck  of  one  of  the  bystanders. 

The  company  halted,  but  he  waved 
his  hand  with  a  *'go  on  boys,"  and  there 
they  stood,  two  elderly  men  locked  in  a 
close  embrace,  tears  of  joy  slowly  steal- 
ing down  their  bronzed  cheeks. 

We  never  knew  whether  they  were 
brothers  or  comrades,  but  tears  filled 
our  eyes  at  the  joy  and  comfort  of  the 
unexpected  meeting. 

We  thought,  will  it  not  be  so  in  the 
great  hereafter,  when  a  ransomed  soul 
^'washed  in  the  blood  of  the  lamb," 
enters  the  city  of  glory,  cheered  by 
bands  of  heavenly  music;  will  he  not 
here  and  there,  as  he  walks  along  the 
gold  paved  streets,  see  some  loved  and 
almost  forgotten  friend,  and  with  a  glad 


172  Camping  Out  in  California. 

cry  of  remembrance  and  joy,  the  old 
friends  "greet  each  other  there."  "Eye 
hath  not  seen,"  therefore  we  cannot 
know. 

There  were  many  happy  faces  and 
joyous  greetings  that  day,  and  the 
bounteous  lunch  provided  by  the  liberal 
people,  was  sufficient  not  only  for  the 
G.  A.  R.,  but  also  for  all  other  visitors. 

We  desired  to  be  at  San  Jose  for  the 
reunion  of  the  Grand  Army  there,  so 
we  made  preparations  in  the  morning 
to  start  eastward  again. 

It  was  with  feelings  of  regret  that  we 
visited  the  beach  for  the  last  time. 
The  ocean  had  proved  so  interesting  to 
us,  such  a  mysterious  world,  with  its 
caverns  of  wealth  and  woe;  its  fields 
and  forests  filled  with  life  so  different 
from  that  in  the  world  around  us;  its 
everchanging  hues  and  moods,  from 
the  hour  when  with  its  untiring  surge 
it  would  seem  as  if  it  must  sweep  on 
and  on  and  seize  everything  before  it, 


G.  A.  R.  Reunions.  175 

to  the  hour  when  it  would  lay  peace- 
fully asleep,  reflecting  the  tender  shin- 
ing of  the  stars  and  moon.  During 
our  week's  stay  on  the  beach  we  had 
wandered  in  our  thoughts  through  the 
low-lying  valleys,  among  coral  groves, 
and  blue  and  purple  sea-flowers,  and 
millions  of  sporting  gold  fish.  We  had 
walked  on  the  floor  of  glittering  sand 
and  snowy  pearl-shells  and  beheld  the 
green  and  crimson  flags  waving  in  the 
calm  and  glassy  water  as  gracefully  as 
the  prairie  grass  waves  in  a  summer 
breeze. 

We  had  looked  up  and  beheld  white- 
winged  vessels,  flying  like  giant  birds, 
five  miles  above  our  heads.  We  had 
stood  on  the  tops  of  lofty  mountains 
with  thousands  of  feet  of  surging  brine 
above  us,  and  looked  down  into  dark 
canyons  and  gorges  two  and  three  miles 
deep.  We  had  wearily  climbed  those 
rocky  paths  that  have  never  been  trod- 
den by  human  teet  until  we  stood  on 


174  Camping  Out  in  California. 

some  distant  islet,  and  in  the  midst  of 
the  glowing  sunlight  and  the  balmy 
air  of  a  higher  realm,  a  new  world. 

"The  water  is  calm  and  still  below, 

For  the  winds  and  waves  are  absent  there, 
And  the  sands  are  bright  as  the  stars  that   glow, 

In  the  motionless  fields  of  upper  air, 
And  life  in  rare  and  beautiful  forms, 

Is  sporting  amid  those  bowers  of  stone. 
And  is  safe  when  the  wrathful  spirit  of  storms 

Has  made  the  top  of  the  waves  his  own." 

But  as  we  dared  not  longer  linger  we 
turned  our  faces  homeward,  and  our 
backs  upon  the  world  of  water.  We 
concluded  to  travel  by  another  route 
and  visit  the  grove  of  Big  Trees.  We 
found  the  road  in  excellent  condition, 
and  the  beautiful  forest  scenes  were  re- 
peated, only  the  trees  and  shrubs 
seemed  to  have  taken  on  more  loveli- 
ness, for  Autumn  had  touched  her 
brush  here  and  there,  adding  new  and 
brighter  shades  to  the  foliage,  and  a 
deeper  sense  of  rest  and  quietude 
brooded  everywhere. 

In   the   afternoon   we   came   to  the 


G.  A.  R.  Reunions.        ,  175 

road  leading  off  to  the  Big  Trees,  and 
turning  into  a  little  field  we  pitched 
our  tent  and  then  walked  to  the  grove, 
a  very  pleasant  way  through  shady 
dells  and  across  a  musical  mountain 
brook. 

The  trees  would  have  seemed  more 
wonderful  if  we  had  not  passed  through 
the  forests  of  immense  redwoods  of 
Mendocino  county  before  coming  here. 

The '  ^  General  Fremont"  is  said  to  h  ave 
been  honored  by  the  presence  of  the 
famous  General  years  ago.  It  is  sixty 
feet  in  circumference,  and  has  two 
holes  cut  for  windows,  and  another  for 
a  stove  pipe,  as  a  family  lived  in  it 
during  a  cold  winter. 

The  ''Jumbo"  is  a  stately  tree  and 
has  a  large  curious  knot  projecting 
from  one  side,  and  people  whose  im- 
aginative powers  ape  strong,  say  it  is 
the  exact  shape  of  an  elephant's  head 
and  trunk. 

The   'Twin    Sisters"    are    tall    and 


176  Camping  Out  in  California. 

straight,  and  united  at  the  root  where 
they  measure  one  hundred  and  twelve 
feet  in  circumference. 

But  here  in  the  midst  of  the  beautiful 
and  mighty  handiwork  of  God,  Satan 
has  one  of  his  little  degrading  work- 
shops. We  had  seen  these  treacherous 
man-traps  scattered  along  our  journey 
of  near  five  hundred  miles,  but  we  did 
not  expect  to  see  one  in  this  secluded 
place.  As  we  returned  to  our  tent 
thinking  how  the  snares  of  Satan  are 
every  where  spread  to  capture  the  3^oungy 
and  wondering  when  the  curse  of  alcohol 
would  disappear,  we  noticed  a  very 
large  redwood  stump  that  showed  signs 
of  decay.  Around  this  stump  stood 
nine  beautiful  trees,  perhaps  twenty 
feet  high  and  at  nearly  equal  distances 
apart,  forming  a  circular  bower  of 
loveliness. 

And  we  thought  as  those  green  and 
flourishing  trees  will  b3^e  and  bye  de- 
stroy that  stump,  so  the  glorious  circle 


G.  A.  R.  Reunions.  177 

of  temperance  men  and  women  who 
are  banded  together  to  work  for  the 
good  of  suffering  humanity,  will  eventu- 
ally destroy  the  whiskey  traffic.  Next 
morning  we  unfortunately  chose  a 
very  poor  road  across  the  mountains, 
and  we  found  it  rough  and  steep,  and 
the  day  was  hot  and  the  way  grew  so 
tiresome  that  we  anxiously  looked  for 
the  top  of  the  mountain,  which  we  did 
not  reach  until  about  sundown. 

We  were  granted  permission  by  a 
gentleman  who  lived  there  to  put  our 
tent  in  his  yard  and  the  horses  in  the 
stable,  as  we  were  out  of  feed.  We  had 
expected  to  reach  Skyland,  but  coming 
another  road  were  not  able  to  do  so. 

The  next  day  being  the  Sabbath 
we  remained  in  camp  until  late  in  the 
afternoon,  and  then  walked  forth  over 
a  little  vine-clad  hill  that  was  set  like 
a  crown  on  the  mountain's  brow  to 
bathe  in  the  heavenly  sunlight  of  the 
Lord^s  day,  and  look  from  nature  to 


178  Camping  Out  in  California. 

nature's  God.  Although  the  king  of 
day  was  pouring  his  effulgence  upon 
us,  and  the  sky  was  clear,  and  there 
was  scarcely  a  breath  of  wind  to  stir 
the  leaves  on  the  trees,  we  could  not 
see  the  ocean. 

While  we  looked  up  into  the  bright 
sky  we  could  also  look  down  on  the 
clouds,  which  were  spread  over  the 
face  of  the  great  deep  even  to  the  very 
horizon. 

On  this  soft  blue  mantle  of  the  sea 
there  seemed  to  be  a  gentle  motion 
like  that  of  the  mirage  on  the  desert, 
or  the  waving  of  silken  drapery  in  a 
king's  palace.  But  in  a  short  time 
that  mystical  robe  was  folded  like  a 
vesture  and  laid  away  in  the  beautiful 
mansion  of  God,  and  the  deep  blue 
ocean  lay  at  our  feet,  apparently  not 
more  than  a  mile  beneath  us. 

We  had  been  near  two  days  in  reach- 
ing the  summit,  a  distance  of  about 
twenty  miles  from  Alhambra,  but  now 


G.  A.  R.  Reunions.  179 

we  were  startled  to  find  that  we  had 
risen  only  a  little  above  the  dashing 
waves  and  that  the  broad  Pacific  was 
still  spread  out  before  us.  Had  the 
ocean  followed  us  up  the  mountain,  or 
had  we  during  the  night  fallen  back 
towards  our  old  camp  on  the  beach? 
But  as  we  knew  these  to  be  impossi- 
bilities, we  could  onl}^  account  for  our 
surprise  by  considering  the  fact  that 
great  things  appear  near,  while  smaller 
objects  appear  far  away.  The  heavenly 
bodies  seem  near  w^hile  we  imagine  men 
on  the  plains  to  be  separated  from  us 
by  such  vast  distances. 

Here  we  were  led  to  reflect  on  the 
great  boundless  ocean  of  God's  everlast- 
ing love  which  is  always  near — although 
sometimes  on  account  of  our  earthward 
wanderings  and  clouds  of  unbelief,  our 
spiritual  vision  is  so  obstructed  that  we 
cannot  behold  the  height  and  depth, 
the  length  and  breadth  of  that  divine 
compassion    which    ''angels    desire    to 


180  Camping  Out  in  California. 

look  into."  But  when  those  interven- 
ing clouds  are  driven  away  by  the 
bright  rays  of  the  sun  of  righteousness, 
we  gaze  with  amazement  upon  the 
riches  of  grace  and  wonder  why  we 
ever  imagined  ourselves  so  remotely 
exiled  from  the  unbounded  ocean  of 
everlasting  love  and  omnipotence ! 

On  this  high  elevation  the  land  is 
very  productive,  the  fruit  trees,  grape- 
vines and  cereals  yielding  abundantly; 
while  the  sheep  and  cattle  seemed  to 
thrive  on  the  brown  mountain  side 

We  were  not  long  the  next  day  in 
reaching  the  beautiful  valley  with  its 
pleasant  homes. 

Near  the  foot  of  the  range  and  north 
of  Los  Gatos  we  were  shown  a  French 
prune  orchard  containing  one  hundred 
and  sixty  acres,  from  which  the  fruit 
that  year  was  sold  for  sixteen  thousand 
dollars. 

The  proprietors  of  some  of  the 
orchards  have  their  own  canneries  and 


G.  A.  R.  Reunions.  181 

evaporators,  but  the  most  of  the  fruit 
is  taken  to  the  Los  Gatos  and  San  Jose 
canneries,  which  are  hives  of  industry, 
filled  with  busy  workers  who  take  the 
luscious  fruit  as  it  comes  from  the  trees, 
and  after  skillful  manipulation  send  it 
forth  sealed  and  labeled  so  that 
those  who  live  in  less  fortunate  portions 
of  the  United  States  and  in  far  away 
countries  may  enjoy  California  luxu- 
ries. 

While  passing  through  this  charming 
valley  of  fruit  and  flowers  we  concluded 
to  go  a  few  miles  out  of  our  regular 
course  to  visit  the  daughters  of  John 
Brown. 

Our  young  companions  who  had  read 
the  history  of  the  zealous  friend  of  the 
Negro  and  his  quixotic  undertaking,  to- 
gether with  his  tragical  death,  were 
much  surprised  on  learning  that  two  of 
his  children  were  living  only  a  few 
miles  from  the  main  thoroughfare,  and 
they  would   not  consent  to  leave  the 


182  Camping  Out  in  California 

valley  without  visiting  them. 

Our  road  from  Los  Gatos  to  Saratoga 
lay  near  the  foot-hills,  so  that  while  we 
admired  the  level  valley  farms  on  our 
right,  we  also  had  a  grand  view  of  the 
houses,  fields,  pastures,  orchards  and 
vineyards  on  the  mountain  side. 

While  conversing  with  a  gentleman 
in  regard  to  the  wealth  and  advantages 
of  the  country,  he  pointed  to  a  little 
spot  away  on  what  seemed  to  be  the 
very  summit  of  the  range,  and  said,  for 
several  years  that  was  the  home  of  Mrs. 
John  Brown  and  children,  and  that  it 
was  a  beautiful  place  when  once  there. 

From  Saratoga  we  headed  our  team 
in  an  easterly  direction,  and  soon 
reached  the  place  where  John  Brown's 
daughters  lived. 

On  entering  the  house  we  were  greeted 
by  two  very  pleasant  ladies  and  imme- 
diately made  to  feel  at  home.  They 
assured  us  that  we  were  not  the  only 
•ones  who  had  called  to  see  them,  but 


G.  A.  R  Reunions.  183 

that  they  were  visited  by  people  from 
all  parts  of  the  country.  The  eldest 
daughter  had  recently  lost  her  position 
in  the  government  service,  owing  to  the 
change  in  the  administration. 

The  youngest  is  married  and  has  a 
family  of  intelligent  children.  They 
told  us  many  interesting  adventures 
connected  with  their  early  life,  before, 
after,  and  while  crossing  the  plains, 
thus  making  our  visit  a  pleasure  long 
to  be  remembered.  After  bidding  fare- 
well to  those  who  to  us  had  previously 
been  mere  historical  characters,  but 
now  intimate  acquaintances  and  warm- 
hearted friends,  we  returned  to  our 
wagon  and  resumed  our  journey.  As 
the  sun  was  now  sinking  low  in  the 
West,  our  horses  were  encouraged  to 
double  their  speed  so  as  to  reach  San 
Jose  before  dark. 

When  near  the  city  we  came  upon 
the  wonderful  street  known  as  the 
Alameda.     It  is  three  miles  long,  and 


184  Camping  Out  in  California, 

smooth  and  solid  as  a  stone  floor.  On 
either  side,  and  also  along  the  centre, 
are  rows  of  large  trees,  thus  forming  a 
perfect  shade. 

On  this  avenue  were  many  fast 
horses  and  fine  carriages  in  which 
scores  of  young  ladies  and  gentlemen 
were  enjoying  an  evening's  ride.  As 
the  sun  went  down  and  the  stars  began 
to  shine,  we  pitched  our  tent  on  a 
vacant  lot  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  and 
after  our  evening's  meal  we  went  to  a 
large  tent  where  a  protracted  meeting 
was  in  progress. 

But  we  were  disappointed,  the  con- 
gregation was  small,  and  not  much 
spiritual  food  in  the  sermon.  The  main 
effort  of  the  preacher  seemed  to  be  to 
explain  away  the  plain  simple  meaning 
of  certain  passages  in  the  Bible  and  to 
prove  all  orthodox  theologians  were  in 
the  dark. 

At  San  Jose  the  scene  of  welcoming 
the  G.  A.  R.  was  to  be  repeated.     This 


G.  A.  B.  Reunions.  185 

city,  however,  was  so  level  that  we  could 
not  watch  the  approach  of  the  con- 
quering heroes  from  any  eminence,  but 
the  multitudes  gathered  in  front  of  the 
Court  House,  where  a  stand  was  erected 
for  the  honorable  speakers.  The 
building  was  beautifully  decorated,  as 
also  was  the  stand,  and  the  vast  con- 
course, arrayed  in  holiday  attire,  were 
patientl}^  awaiting  the  great  procession, 
and  when  the  brave  generals  appeared, 
cheer  after  cheer  went  up  from  the 
patriotic  assemblage. 

Mayor  Breyfogle  gave  them  a  gracious 
w^elcome.  Commander-in-Chief  Fair- 
childs  made  response,  ''  'Our  eyes  have 
seen  the  glory  of  the  Lord  this  morning, 
and  our  hearts  are  rejoiced  at  the  sight 
of  this  beautiful  valley  and  city.  Many 
of  us  have  come  from  thousands  of 
miles  away  to  this  golden  shore,  and  if 
there  is  an  old  soldier  in  all  this  gath- 
ering that  ever  regretted  the  pains,  the 
bruises,  the  heartaches  caused  by   or 


186  Camping  Out  in  California. 

incident  to  the  war,  his  balm  has  come 
in  his  journey  across  this  broad  land, 
in  witnessing  the  prosperity  that  has 
come  to  all  portions  of  our  beloved 
country." 

General  Logan  was  received  with 
hearty  cheers  and  several  enthusiastic 
admirers  exclaimed  ''Our  next  Presi- 
dent." After  a  moment's  silence  he  said: 
''I  do  not  see  how  anyone  could  make 
Sk  speech  to  this  vast  audience;  I 
certainly  cannot.  All  T  have  to  say 
to-day  is  this:  Something  more  than 
forty  years  ago  this  country  was  settled 
by  Americans.  You  have  given  us  a 
grand  and  patriotic  reception,  for 
which  we  are  all  under  many  obliga- 
tions to  the  patriotic  citizens  of  this 
beaatiful  city.  To  California  we  give 
the  honors  of  having  given  the  grandest 
reception  to  the  old  soldiers  that  we 
have  liad  anywhere  in  our  country. 
For  that  we  return  our  most  heartfelt 
thanks.  Our  friend  Lee  said  something 


O.  A.  R.  Bevnions.  187 

about  Ohio.  We  all  agree  that  Ohio  is  a 
great  State.  But  there  are  other  people 
represented  here  as  well  as  those  of 
Ohio.  They  may  not  he  as  good,  per- 
haps, hut  there  are  as  many  of  them. 
Massachusetts, ConnecticutjMaine,  New 
York,  Pennsylvania,  West  Virginia, 
Ohio  (of  course),  Indiana,  Illinois,  and 
all  of  the  States  that  participated 
in  preserving  this  great  government. 
For  all  these  States  I  take  responsibility 
of  saying  that  all  the  visitors  have  been 
gratified  at  the  manner  in  which  they 
have  been  received  by  the  people  of 
California,  and  each  and  every  one  will 
carry  home  in  his  heart  gratitude  to 
this  people  for  their  kindness  and 
generous  bearing  towards  the  old  vet- 
erans that  have  come  so  far  to  visit 
this  golden  shore.  Ladies  and  gentle- 
men, I  thank  you  for  the  manner  in 
which  I  myself  have  been  treated.  I 
thank  you  for  your  kindness  and  gen- 
erosity, and  I  hope  the  time  will  come 


188  Camping  Out  in  California. 

when  we  shall  meet  here  or  elsewhere, 
and  that  you  may  enjoy  health,  peace, 
happiness  and  prosperity." 

As  General  Logan  left  the  stand  in 
the  midst  of  deafening  cheers  how  little 
did  any  in  the  great  congregation  real- 
ize that  his  life  was  so  soon  to  end  on 
earth!  And,  as  for  himself,  to  all 
appearances  in  perfect  health,  he  prob- 
ably had  not  the  slightest  idea  that  the 
bright  sun  of  his  promising  life  was 
about  to  go  down  at  noon. 

After  the  concluding  address  the 
party  adjourned  to  enjoy  the  lunch  in 
St.  James  Park.  Although  the  grounds 
were  not  arranged  so  artistically  as  at 
Santa  Cruz,  the  tables  were  protected 
from  the  too  fervent  rays  of  the  sun  by 
canvas  awnings,  and  decorated  with 
evergreens  and  flowers. 

The  lunch  was  bountiful,  and  it  was 
estimated  that  eight  thousand  persons 
ate  to  repletion.  Among  the  decora- 
tions in  the  park  was  an  immense  slab 


G.  A,  R.  Reunions.  189 

of  ice,  weighing  one  thousand  pounds, 
from  the  Los  Gatos  Ice  Manufactory. 
Frozen  in  the  slab  were  four  baskets, 
two  of  fruit  and  two  of  flowers,  main- 
taining their  original  color  and  shape. 
After  lunch  we  ascended  the  dome  of 
the  Court  House  and  looked  over  the 
^'Garden  City.''  It  is  no  wonder  that 
the  residents  are  proud  of  their  beau- 
tiful valle3\  On  the  East  lay  the  foot- 
hills, and  the  vineyards,  orchards,  gar- 
dens and  stubble  fields,  with  their  differ- 
ent colors,  light  and  dark,  presenting  an 
appearance  that  we  could  liken  to  noth- 
ing less  than  an  immense  crazy  quilt. 
And  all  the  surrounding  valley  was 
teeming  with  beauty,  wealth,  and  pros- 
perity, while  the  city  itself  was  a  vast 
scene  of  joyous  festivity.  Every  busi- 
ness house,  and  all  the  principal  resi- 
dences were  gracefully  decorated  with 
flags,  badges,  and  other  appropriate 
emblems  of  welcome.  The  most  con- 
spicuous and  profusely  decorated   was 


190  Camping  Out  in  California. 

the  electric  tower.  From  the  top  of  the 
tower,  a  distance  of  two  hundred  feet, 
depended  at  each  corner  a  line  of  flags, 
shields,  and  Grand  Army  emblems. 
A  large  gilt  ball  was  swinging  in  the 
center  of  the  tower,  and  long  lines  of 
bunting  diverged  from  this  ball  form- 
ing a  lovely  canopy.  On  two  sides  were 
G.  A.  R.  badges,  about  seven  feet  in 
length,  and  on  the  corners  large  por- 
traits of  the  leading  generals,  Grant, 
Sherman,  Logan,  Sheridan  and  several 
others.  Then  the  arches  and  girders 
were  twined,  with  evergreens,  which 
gave  a  rich  and  beautiful  effect  to  the 
whole  structure. 

Among  the  bright  new  banners  dis- 
played throughout  the  city,  there  floated 
some  of  the  old  tattered  and  battle-worn 
flags  which  had  cheered  many  a  brave 
soldier  on  to  victory,  or  death.  After 
the  day^s  parade  was  over  we  accepted 
the  invitation  of  kind  friends  to  camp 
at  the  Willows — two    miles   from   the 


Q.  A.  R.  Reunions.  191 

business  part  of  the  city — and  were 
soon  pleasantly  resting  under  the  shade 
of  a  wide-spreading  walnvit  tree.  In  the 
evening  we  had  the  pleasure  of  accom- 
panying the  family  to  the  Horticultural 
Hall,  where  the  San  Joseans  had  an 
exhibition  of  fruit,  flowers  and  works 
of  art.  There  were  very  many  artistic 
and  striking  arrangements.  One  most 
unique  was  a  chariot  made  of  different 
seeds,  standing  in  a  field  of  grain,  with 
a  lady  arrayed  to  represent  the  goddess 
Ceres  sitting  in  the  chariot. 

A  beautiful  representation  of  the 
goddess  Pomona  was  a  handsome  ship 
laden  with  tempting  fruit  entering  the 
Golden  Gate.  The  ocean  was  bounded 
by  tiny  sketches  of  California  scenery, 
showing  the  different  trees,  ferns  and 
grasses  of  the  country,  while  in  the 
background  were  glimpses  of  Lake 
Tahoe  and  New  York  harbor.  An  altar 
of  beautiful  blossoms  of  every  shade  and 
variety  had  been  erected  to  the  goddess. 


192  Camping  Out  in  California, 

Flora,  whose  statue  adorned  with  bright 
hiied  garlands,  crowned  the  lovely 
structure. 

The  statue  of  "  Ruth  the  Gleaner'^ 
was  artistically  arranged  with  cereals 
and  grasses. 

A  large  bear  was  also  added  to  the 
other  attractions.  Not  a  dangerous 
grizzly,  but  one  more  pleasant  looking 
and  interesting  formed  of  moss  and 
flowers. 

The  gallery  walls  were  covered  with 
a  grand  collection  of  pictures,  all  inter- 
esting and  some  most  beautiful.  Around 
the  hall  were  tables  loaded,  3^es,  almost 
groaning  beneath  their  burden  of  fruit; 
for  every  kind  of  fruit — and  the  best 
specimens — that  is  raised  in  California 
had  been  brought  here  to  prove  that  all 
the  credit  ascribed  to  this  State  is  fully 
merited. 

It  would  be  in  vain  to  attempt  a  de- 
scription of  the  wealth  and  beauty  here 
displayed,  but  we  could  fully  sympathize 


G.  A.  R.  BemAor.s.  193^ 

with  the  sentiment  of  a  small  boy  who 
was  standing  Avith  a  large  cluster  of 
purple  grapes  in  one  hand  and  a  two 
pound  pear  in  the  other  as  he  exclaimed, 
^'I  tell  you  California  is  the  boss  place 
for  a  boy  like  me." 


CHAPTER  IX. 

THE    orphans'    home. 

We  remained  at  the  Willows  over 
the  Sabbath.  In  the  morning  and 
evening  we  attended  church,  where  we 
heard  two  excellent  sermons.  In  the 
afternoon  we  accepted  a  kind  invitation 
to  dine  with  our  friends,  after  which  we 
spent  an  hour  with  them  in  a  pleasant 
Bible  service. 

Before  leaving  this  great  center  of 
population,  we  concluded  to  ascend  the 
mountains  east  of  the  city  in  order  to 
have  an  elevated  and  better  view  of  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  valleys  in  the 
world. 

We  harnessed  our  team  early  in  the 
morning  and  were  soon  climbing  the 
meandering  road  and  passing  fertile 
farms  some  of  which  seemed  almost 
standing  on  edge.     As  the  day  was  hot 


The  Orphans'  Home.  195 

and  the  road  far  steeper  than  we  had 
expected  to  find  it,  we  did  not  reach 
the  most  elevated  point  until  late  in 
the  afternoon. 

From  this  exalted  position  we  had  a 
fine  view  of  the  fertile  valley  as  it  lay 
like  a  vast  plain  before  us,  checked  with 
straight  roads,  dotted  with  thousands 
of  costly  houses,  and  gloriously  orna- 
mented with  vineyards  and  orchards. 

Away  in  the  distance  was  the  south- 
ern extremity  of  the  bay,  glistening  in 
the  sunlight,  and  pointing  like  a  finger 
of  the  ocean  directly  toward  us,  while 
between  the  end  of  that  ocean-finger 
and  the  mountain  on  which  we  stood 
lay  quietly  nestled  among  flourishing 
trees  the  little  town  of  Milpitas. 

And  then  a  long  train  of  cars  seemed 
to  shoot  out  of  the  city  and  went  glid- 
ing away  through  the  distant  fields,  to 
us  as  noiseless  as  the  retreat  of  some 
monster  serpent. 

Here  we  were  reminded  of  Moses  as 


196  Camping  Out  in  California. 

he  stood  on  the  heights  of  Nebo  viewing 
the  promised  land  which  he  could  not 
possess.  The  country  before  us  was  in- 
deed a  goodly  land  flowing  with  milk 
and  honey  and  strewn  with  purple 
grapes  and  blushing  peaches,  a  land  of 
rose-fringed  gardens  and  sparkling 
fountains,  a  land  within  whose  borders 
an  acre  is  an  Eden  and  a  cottage  a  pal- 
ace, a  land  of  cloudless  summers,  gold- 
en days,  and  balmy  nights.  But  in  it 
we  had  no  home,  no  inheritance. 
"Luck  and  chance  happeneth  to  all 
men,"  and  how  fortunate  were  those 
who  settled  in  this  rich  valley  in  an 
early  day.  If  they  did  not  find  the 
fountain  of  youth,  they  found  a  natural 
garden  and  one  of  the  most  delightful 
places  outside  of  paradise.  We  returned 
by  a  different  road  which  seemed  like 
the  staging  on  the  side  of  a  high  build- 
ing as  we  looked  into  the  green  canyon 
so  far  beneath  our  feet. 

We  were  not  long  however  in  reach- 


The  Orphans'  Home.  197 

ing  the  valley,  and  as  the  sun  was  not 
yet  doAvn,  we  had  a  lovely  view  of  the 
surrounding  country  and  also  the  pleas- 
ant home  of  Rusticus,andthoughtthatwe 
better  than  ever  before  understood  why 
his  pen  like  Aaron's  rod  could  blossom 
into  such  deep  and  flowery  sentences. 
The  tree  of  life  yields  its  fruit  ever}- 
month,  but  the  pen  of  Rusticus  yields 
its  fruit  every  week ! 

Some  noted  author  has  advised  young 
people  to  read  a  rich  book  before  at- 
tempting to  write  for  the  press.     But 

Dr.  B reads  the  book  of  nature,  the 

very  book  from  whose  fragrant  and  deli- 
cate pages  our  Saviour  taught  his  dis- 
ciples such  precious  lessons  of  faith. 
And  this  book  is  open  and  reveals 
some  of  its  brightest  pictures  on  every 
side  of  his  house.  We  reached  our 
tent  as  the  twilight  was  gathering 
around  us. 

On  the  following  day  we  started  for 
home  and  as  our  horses  had  enjoyed  a 


198  Camping  Out  in  California. 

long  rest  we  moved  over  the  road  with 
considerable  speed.  That  night  we 
camped  near  Danville,  and  the  next 
night  at  dark  reached  Martinez,  where 
we  had  considerable  difficulty  in  find- 
ing a  place  to  camp,  as  the  bitter  feeling 
towards  campers  had  not  yet  died  out. 

Early  the  next  morning  we  crossed 
the  ferry,  passed  through  Benicia  and 
reached  Vallejo  about  the  middle  of  the 
day.  We  left  the  boys  to  prepare  the 
lunch  while  we  visited  the  Good  Tem- 
plars' Orphan  Home. 

It  is  a  fine  large  building,  situated 
on  a  high  hill  which  commands  a  grand 
view  of  the  bay  and  surrounding  coun- 
try. The  school  house  stands  but  a 
few  feet  from  the  main  edifice. 

The  matron  was  very  kind  and  seemed 
pleased  to  show  us  through  the  estab- 
lishment. The  inmates  had  just  re- 
covered from  a  siege  of  measles,  there 
having  been  over  ninety  cases,  but  such 
good  attention  had  they  received  that 


The  Orphans'  Home.  199 

among  so  many  taken  from  homes  of 
poverty  and  disease  only  three  or  four 
proved  fatal. 

The  rooms  were  all  pleasant  and  the 
beds  nice  and  comfortable.  In  the 
nursery  we  found  some  little  suffering 
children  who  had  just  been  brought 
from  the  homes  of  drunkards,  and  our 
eyes  filled  with  tears  as  we  gazed  on 
the  wan  pinched  features  and  emaciated 
forms.  One  was  covered  with  bruises 
and  sores  which  too  plainly  indicated 
the  treatment  it  had  received  from 
those  whose  love  and  sympathy  had 
been  utterly  destroyed  by  the  demon 
of  strong  drink. 

But  the  children  who  had  been  there 
long  enough  to  recover  from  the  chill 
of  their  miserable  homes,  seemed  well, 
contented  and  happy.  They  were  greeted 
with  smiles  and  caresses,  and  had  an 
abundance  of  clothing  and  food.  We 
visited  the  well  filled  store-room  and 
were  in  the  kitchen  and  dining-room  as 


200  Camping  Out  in  Calijornia. 

dinner  was  being  prepared,  and  a  better 
or  more  substantial  meal  is  not  needed 
in  any  home.  The  yards  and  playrooms 
were  pleasant  and  convenient  for  all 
kinds  of  weather. 

We  have  forgotten  how  many  were 
old  enough  to  attend  school,  but  there 
were  four  rooms  well  filled,  and  they 
appeared  as  attentive  and  orderly  as 
pupils  in  anyordinary  school,  and  some 
we  noticed  were  very  quick  in  their 
answers. 

Each  department  in  this  large  Home 
seemed  to  be  under  the  care  of  judicious 
and  well  trained  helpers,  and  we  think 
the  Good  Templars  may  well  be  proud 
of  having  rescued  so  many  helpless 
children  from  an  evil  life  and  given 
them  a  chance  to  rise  in  the  world. 

It  seems  to  me  that  no  reasonable 
person  after  visiting  this  purely  benev- 
olent institution  could  speak  lightly 
of  the  I.  O.  G.  T.  If  their  work  should 
accomplish  nothing  more,  they  should 


The  Orphans^  itome.  261 

be  held  in  high  esteem  by  all  lovers  of 
suffering  humanity.  So  many  inno- 
cent children,  many  of  whom  as  some 
one  has  said  'Svere  not  born  but  damned 
into  the  world,"  fed,  clothed,  educated 
and  trained  up  in  the  way  they  should 
go. 

May  the  Good  Templars  go  forward 
with  this  glorious  work,  until  the  vic- 
tory is  won  and  there  will  be  no  need 
of  charitable  homes  for  drunkards' 
children ! 

Leaving  Vallejo  late  in  the  afternoon 
we  traveled  but  a  few  miles  before  the 
sun  went  down,  and  we  were  granted 
permission  to  camp  in  an  open  field 
near  the  road.  We  had  scarcely  begun 
to  prepare  supper  w^hen  a  boy  brought 
us  a  pail  full  of  fresh  milk  which  we 
all  enjoyed  very  much. 

The  next  morning  we  were  early  on 
the  road,  passing  vast  vineyards  that 
were  loaded  with  green,  red,  and  purple 
grapes  which  hung  in  immense  clusters 


202  Camping  Out  in  California. 

from  the  bending  vines,  and  some  were 
resting  on  the  ground.  Occasionally  we 
would  see  a  passer-by  alight  from  his 
horse  or  carriage,  and  step  among  the 
drooping  vines  and  in  a  moment  return 
with  three  or  four  bunches  of  the  de- 
licious fruit.  They  did  this  with  as 
much  composure  and  indifference  as 
though  they  were  among  their  own 
vines.  As  our  young  folks  desired 
some  of  the  tempting  grapes  and  we  did 
not  wish  to  encourage  them  to  take 
what  did  not  belong  to  them,  we  called 
at  a  house  to  purchase  a  small  quantity 
to  eat  on  the  way. 

But  when  the  lady  of  the  house  said 
"help  yourselves"  we  concluded  that  in 
this  country  the  law  of  Moses  is  fully 
recognized  and  endorsed,  ''When  thou 
comest  into  thy  neighbor's  vineyard, 
then  thou  mayest  eat  grapes  tliy  fill  at 
thine  own  pleasure,  but  thou  shalt  not 
put  any  in  thy  vessel."  It  is  certainly 
a   great   [)rivilege   for   a   poor,    weary 


The  Orphans'  Home.  203 

traveler  on  a  hot  day  to  eat  freely  of 
such  luscious  fruit  ''without  money 
and  without  price/'  and  at  the  same 
time  to  know  that  there  is  no  suspicious 
eye  upon  him. 

And  thus  the  generosity  and  noble- 
ness of  the  people  were  clearly  revealed. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  the 
residence  of  a  friend,  who  for  two  years 
had  been  a  near  neighbor,  but  had 
moved  away  about  a  year  before  this 
time.  We  stopped  our  team  a  short 
distance  from  the  house  and  Eda  took 
a  pail  and  went  in  and  asked  her  old 
friend  for  some  water. 

As  the  lady  returned  from  the  well,, 
she  asked,  "Which  way  are  you  going?'' 
and  as  Eda  attempted  to  reply,  she 
said,  "Oh  you  little  rogue,"  and  push- 
ing back  the  broad  sun-hat  kissed  her 
affectionately. 

We  were  immediately  invited  into 
the  parlor  and  our  horses  put  into  the 
barn.     Here  we  enjoyed  a  very  pleas- 


204  Camping  Out  in  California. 

ant  visit  of  three  days  and  were  treated 
with  more  than  kindness.  On  the  Sab- 
bath we  rode  with  our  friends  in  a  fine 
carriage  to  Napa  City  and  listened  to 
an  unuiaually  eloquent  and  forcible  ser- 
mon, a  portion  of  which  we  still  re- 
member. The  home  of  our  friends  was 
on  one  side  of  the  valley  and  on  ele- 
vated ground,  consequently  we  were 
able  to  see  the  dark  hills  beyond  the 
plain.  After  returning  from  church, 
and  as  the  lovely  Sabbath  was  flying 
away  toward  the  west,  and  fluttering 
its  golden  plumage  over  the  distant 
hills  and  filling  the  pure  atmosphere 
with  its  glowing  radiance,  we  endeav- 
ored to  recall  our  thoughts,  and  words, 
and  actions,  and  wondered  ^if  the  de- 
parting Lord's  day  would  return  with 
an  olive  leaf  to  meet  us  in  the  dying 
hour,  and  cheer  us  at  the  entrance  of 
the  dark  valley. 

We  are  so  apt  when  meeting  with 
precious  friends,  from  whom  we  have 


The  Orphans'  Home.  205 

long  been  separated,  to  spend  even 
much  of  the  Sabbath  in  speaking  our 
own  words.  Old  time  scenes  must  be 
recalled,  losses,  crosses  and  disappoint- 
ments must  be  rehearsed,  future  pros- 
pects must  be  noticed,  children's  pres- 
ent and  future  welfare  must  not  be 
overlooked,  and  thus  how  easy  to  allow 
the  precious  moments  of  Sunday  to 
glide  away  without  drawing  from  them 
such  spiritual  strength  as  they  are  in- 
tended to  bestow  on  the  spiritually 
minded  Christian.  And  thus  many 
times 

"In  the  varied  range  of  thought 
The  one  thing  needful  is  forgot." 

But  after  the  day  had  flown  beyond 
our  sight,  and  the  silvery  dawn  had 
disappeared  in  the  shadow  of  the  west- 
ern hills,  we  opened  the  Bible  and  read 
the  word  of  light  and  life,  and  then 
bowed  around  the  family  altar  and  im- 
plored pardon  for  the  mistakes  and 
negligence  of  the  day,  and  committed 


S06  Camping  Diit  in  California. 

ourselves  to  the  sacred  care  of  him  who 
never  sleeps. 

Our  visit  was  so  pleasant,  it  was  with 
feelings  of  sadness  we  bade  our  friends 
adieu  and  continued  our  journey  home- 
ward* The  day  was  delightful,  and 
through  the  pure  atmosphere  we  could 
see  far  down  towards  the  shimmering 
bay,  and  far  along  the  mountains  in 
the  direction  of  St.  Helena,  and  across 
the  vale  where  vineyards  were  clinging 
to  the  foothills,  and  flowers  adorned 
cottages,  from  Avhose  clear  windows 
could  be  seen  a  vast  and  beautiful 
country,  over  which  daily  trains  move 
with  lightning  speed. 


CHAPTER  X, 

INSANE     ASYLUM. 

When  we  reached  the  Napa  Insane 
Asylum,  to  gratify  the  curiosity  of  all 
the  party,  we  concluded  to  visit  this 
wonderful  institution. 

As  we  tied  our  horses  and  started  to- 
ward the  great  edifice,  Linnie  wondered 
which  one  of  the  company  the  people 
would  think  was  going  there  to  remain. 
And  judging  from  the  manner  in  which 
several  finely  dressed  ladies  and  gentle- 
men looked  at  us,  there  was  no  small 
effort  to  decide  which  was  the  lunatic* 

After  passing  the  main  entrance,  the 
guide  took  us  into  one  of  the  wards 
which  was  filled  with  women,  some  of 
whom  were  melancholy  and  quiet,  oth- 
ers seemed  happy  and  talked  inces- 
santly. Before  we  were  half  way 
through  the  ward,  we  were  surrounded 


208  Campihg  Out  in  California. 

by  the  latter  class,  each  endeavoring  to 
claim  our  attention  to  some  amusing 
or  ridiculous  story. 

One  middle  aged  woman  said  she 
knew  us  all  and  was  very  glad  to  meet 
us  again.  Another  seemed  anxious  to 
talk  on  the  subject  of  religion.  She 
said  the  last  minister  who  preached  for 
them  was  a  good  preacher  and  a  nice 
looking  man,  but  she  did  not  like  him 
because  he  had  such  big  feet.  She  did 
not  seem  to  comprehend  the  scripture 
which  says,  ^'How  beautiful  are  the 
feet  of  them  that  preach  the  gospel  of 
peace." 

While  passing  through  the  men^s  de- 
partment, we  noticed  several  large, 
fleshy  young  fellows  around  a  table 
playing  cards.  They  appeared  to  us  to 
be  in  perfect  health,  and  we  wondered 
if  some  of  them  had  not  deceived  the 
physician  and  succeeded  in  obtaining  a 
home  in  the  asylum  where  they  could 
live  comfortably  without  work. 


Insane  Asylum.  209 

We  also  noticed  a  tall,  venerable  look- 
ing man  who  was  walking  back  and 
forth  the  whole  length  of  the  ward 
talking  very  earnestly  all  the  while, 
and  were  told  that  he  was  a  minister. 
This  to  us  did  not  seem  strange,  be- 
cause when  we  consider  the  trials,  anx- 
ieties and  hardships  of  most  ministers, 
we  cannot  but  think  it  a  miracle  of 
God's  mercy  that  many  more  do  not  go 
insane. 

Before  we  had  gone  halfway  through 
the  building,  several  hundreds  of  those 
who  were  not  dangerous  and  many  of 
them  convalescent,  were  let  out  into 
the  yards;  and  leaving  Harry  and  Ben 
in  front  of  the  asylum,  we  went  with 
the  guide  among  more  than  two  hun- 
dred crazy  women.  Here  was  every 
type  of  insanity  in  its  mild  form.  One 
young  woman,  somewhat  fantastically 
dressed,  claimed  to  be  the  Queen  of 
England,  and  would  not  associate  with 
the  others.     Another  said  she  was  Lady 


210  Campivg  Out  in  California. 

Washington.  One  little  hump-backed 
woman,  perhaps  forty  years  of  age,  ran 
up  to  Will,  threw  her  arms  around  him 
and  said,  ''O  Jimmy,  Jimmy,  I  am  so 
glad  to  see  .you." 

Will  blushed  like  a  child  and  endeav- 
ored to  get  away  from  the  little  lunatic, 
as  he  afterwards  called  her,  but  she 
continued  to  cling  to  him,  exclaiming, 
^'No,  no,  you  needn't  let  on  like  you 
don't  know  me.  We  were  engaged,  and 
your  cruel  father  wouldn't  let  you 
marry  me." 

The  poor  boy  succeeded  in  freeing 
himself  from  her  embrace  and  hastened 
beyond  her  reach  and  seemed  very  anx- 
ious to  leave  the  enclosure,  as  he  did 
not  know  who  would  be  the  next  one  to 
claim  him.  As  our  brave  young  man 
was  endeavoring  to  retreat,  some  of  the 
inmates  looked  as  if  they  felt  indig- 
nant to  tliink  one  of  their  company 
should  be  so  rude  and  unladylike;  oth- 
ers clapped  their  hands  and  laughed  as 


Insane  Asylum.  211 

heartily  as  little  children  at  play. 
Another  who  was  quite  young  and 
had  rather  a  mischievous  look,  followed 
immediately  behind  the  guide,  stepping 
very  cautiously  and  bending  low  as  if 
to  conceal  herself,  and,  at  the  same 
time,  pointing  with  both  forefingers  to- 
ward the  back  of  his  head.  We  in- 
quired for  one  whose  parents  we  knew, 
and  she  was  presently  brought  by  one 
of  the  ladies  in  attendance,  but  she 
seemed  somewhat  sullen  and  answered 
our  questions  mostly  in  monosyllables^ 
until  asked  if  she  did  not  want  to  see 
her  folks,  wlien  she  replied,  "No,  they 
are  all  too  crazy,"  We  had  much  sym- 
pathy for  this  unfortunate  girl  and  her 
friends.  She  belongs  to  an  excellent 
family,  and  was  herself  a  bright  and 
lovely  young  lady  before  she  lost  her 
mind.  After  leaving  this  yard,  we 
were  again  taken  into  the  building  and 
conducted  to  a  window,  from  which  we 
could  se3  the  men,  who  in  like  manner 


212  Camping  Out  in  California. 

had  been  let  out  for  exercise  and  recre- 
ation. Here  we  beheld  a  pandemonium. 
Some  were  quarrelling,  some  were 
singing,  some  were  preaching,  some  were 
talking  politics  and  religion,  and  many 
were  uttering  bitter  oaths.  Passages  of 
scripture  and  the  name  of  God  were 
mingled  with  awful  profanity.  Even 
those  who  pretended  to  preach  the  gos- 
pel interspersed  their  solemn  and  earn- 
estly spoken  words  with  such  blasphe- 
mous expressions,  that  we  shuddered 
and  turned  away  with  horror.  We 
were  taken  into  the  drug  department, 
which  contained  all  the  medicines  nec- 
essary for  such  an  institution,  and  also 
many  curiosities.  The  physician  had 
the  appearance  of  a  pleasant,  kind- 
hearted  and  courteous  gentleman,  and 
after  a  short  conversation,  we  felt  as- 
sured that  he  was  the  right  man  in  the 
right  place. 

The  kitchen  interested  the  girls,  as 
everything  was  on  such  a  large  scale 


Insane  Asylum.  213 

and  in  complete  order.  The  range  was 
immense,  and  the  kettles,  which  were 
filled  with  oat  meal  and  graham  mush» 
we  thought  would  hold  more  than  a 
barrel  each,  and  we  were  told  that  they 
used  nearly  seven  barrels  of  flour  daity 
There  were  about  fourteen  hundred  pa- 
tients in  the  asylum,  besides  the  em- 
ployees. 

Beneath  the  building  were  railroads 
and  cars,  on  which  the  provisions  were 
carried  to  the  elevators  and  then  raised 
into  the  several  dining  rooms  and  placed 
on  the  tables,  or  taken  to  those  who 
were  unable  to  leave  their  rooms. 
Thus  the  inhabitants  were  necessarily 
compelled  to  await  the  arrival  of  the 
train  three  times  daily  in  order  to  re- 
ceive their  regular  meals. 

As  we  passed  from  the  building,  we 
found  the  convalescents  enjoying  the 
freedom  of  the  flow^er  bordered  walks, 
lawns  and  arbors,  while  a  band  was 
playing  for  their  entertainment. 


214  Camping  Out  in  California  ^ 

They  all  seemed  to  enjoy  the  music, 
and,  at  the  conclusion,  one  woman 
caught  a  hat  from  the  head  of  a  person 
standing  near,  and  ran  from  one  to  an- 
other, as  if  to  take  a  collection. 

After  returning  to  our  wagon,  we 
drove  around  the  asylum,  which  wo 
were  told  is  just  a  mile.  We  allowed 
our  horses  to  walk  slowly  in  order  to 
have  a  better  view  of  this  wonderful  ed- 
ifice, with  its  lofty  domes,  numerous 
windows  and  irregular  form. 

Through  most  of  the  windows  we 
could  see  faces.  Some  were  calm  and 
pleasant,  and  others  wore  the  expres- 
sion of  gloom, telling  more  plainly  than 
words  could  express  of  internal  grief 
and  blighted  hopes.  One  middle  aged 
woman  thrust  her  arm  ovit  between  the 
bars  and  pointing  to  us  exclaimed,  '^just 
from  Missouri." 

Leaving  the  asylum,  we  passed 
through  the  beautiful  city  of  Napa,  and 
then  for  seveial  miles  almost  one  vast 


Insane  Asylum.  215 

vineyard,  in  which  hundreds  of  China- 
men were  at  work  gathering,  boxing 
and  loading  in  wagons  for  the  wineries 
tons  of  grapes,  which  if  not  as  large  as 
those  of  Eschol,  were,  no  doubt,  equal 
in  beauty  and  flavor.  But  the  thousands 
of  tons  of  grapes  raised  in  this  valley 
are  mostly  made  into  w^ine  and  much  of 
it  drank  by  the  people  of  California. 
Those  who  are  engaged  in  the  lucrative 
occupation  believe  they  are  doing  noth- 
ing contrary  to  the  law^s  of  God  or  the 
spirit  of  the  gospel,  and  many  of  them 
are  active  church  members. 

One  writer,  when  speaking  of  grape 
culture  in  this  valley  remarks,  ''Why,  a 
little  generous  wine  ought  to  enrich  the 
blood  and  inspire  nobility  of  thought. 
If  it  does  more  than  this — if  it  becomes 
a  demon  to  drive  men  and  hogs  into 
the  sea — then  it  is  evident  that  both 
were  on  too  low  a  plane  of  existence  for 
any  safe  exaltation.  But  shall  the 
vineyards  be  rooted  up  for  all  this?     It 


216  Camping  Out  in  California. 

is  better  to  drown  the  swine  and  let  the 
grapes  still  grow  purple  on  the  hillsides. '^ 

We  could  see  some  reason  in  such  a 
sentiment  if  there  were  none  to  suffer 
except  the  swine.  But  if  the  blood  of 
the  grape  flowing  into  and  enriching 
the  noble  blood  of  the  swine  can 
change  them  into  ferocious  wolves  and 
tigers  and  send  them  into  ten  thous- 
and homes  to  tear  out  the  hearts  of 
^vomen  and  innocent  children,  and 
stain  doors  and  hearthstones  with  their 
blood  and  brains,  then  in  God's  name 
root  up  the  vineyards  and  let  the  swine 
die  a  natural  death. 

The  drunkard's  pale  faced  wife  and 
•emaciated  child  need  only  kind  treat- 
ment and  wholesome  food  to  enrich 
their  blood  and  ennoble  their  thoughts. 
Eut  they  are  deprived  of  these  blessings 
by  the  blood  enriching  and  thought  in- 
spiring wine  that  is  poured  into  the 
stomachs  of  their  liege  lords. 

We  believe  if  those  grapes  were  made 


Insane  Asylum.  217 

into  raisins  and  used  freely  instead  of 
wine,  they  would  be  more  enriching  to 
the  blood  and  more  inspiring  to  the 
thoughts  without  the  evil  consequences 
that  often  follow  the  drinking  of  wine, 
and  women  and  children  could  equally 
and  conscientiously  share  the  blessings 
with  their  husbands  and  big  boys. 

Christian  people  would  not  encourage 
wine  making  if  it  was  not  a  profitable 
business,  consequently,  those  who  pre- 
fer to  put  a  stumbling  block  in  a  weak 
brother's  way,  rather  than  follow  in 
poverty  the  blood  stained  footsteps  of 
the  Master,  who  had  not  where  to  lay 
his  head,  should  look  well  to  their 
ways. 

We  reached  the  town  of  Rutlierford 
a  little  before  sunset  and  pitched  our 
tent  in  front  of  the  cemetery,  whose  si- 
lent residents  s'eemed  nearer  to  us  and 
on  fully  as  intimate  terms  as  the  many 
who  passed  and  repassed,  glancing  cas- 
ually at  our  mystical  residence,  which ^ 


218  Campirig  Out  in   California. 

like  Jonah's  gourd,  sprang  up  at  night 
only  to  disappear  in  the  morning. 

That  evening  we  accepted  the  invita- 
tion of  the  country  church  bell  and  at- 
tended religious  services.  The  sanc- 
tuary was  well  filled,  and  the  sermon 
was  practical,  instructive  and  delivered 
with  considerable  earnestness. 

The  next  forenoon  we  reached  St. 
Helena,  one  of  the  neatest  and  most 
beautiful  towns  we  had  seen.  Here 
we  tarried  to  visit  a  number  of  acquain- 
tances, and  then  passed  along  through 
the  same  vast  vineyard  to  Calistoga. 
This  village  is  near  the  head  of  the 
valley  and  the  terminus  of  the  railroad. 
Here  there  are  several  hot  springs, 
which  are  said  to  possess  great  medic- 
inal properties.  One  is  called  the  chick- 
en broth  spring,  but,  judging  from  the 
taste,  we  thought  it  a. poor  substitute 
for  chicken  broth.  We  were  told  that 
laundry  women  sometimes  did  their 
washing  at  one  of  these  springs  in 
order  to  save  fuel. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

CROSSING  ST.  HELENA. 

The  next  morning  we  began  to  ascend 
the  well  known  St.  Helena  mountain. 
We  started  early,  so  as  to  arrive  as  near 
as  we  possibly  could  to  the  summit 
before  the  heat  of  the  day,  as  the  road 
in  places  was  very  steep  and  it  was  five 
miles  to  the  top. 

Although  the  air  was  cool  and  fragrant 
with  dying  flowers,  withering  grass,  and 
fading  leaves,  the  rising  sun  seemed  to 
roll  from  the  far  distant  hills  a  flood  of 
glory  upon  us,  and  in  the  pine  trees 
through  Avhose  green  and  silent 
branches  glimmered  the  morning  sun- 
beams the  happy  little  birds  were 
chanting  anthems  of  praise  to  the 
Creator  of  all. 

Occasionally  we  would  stop  to  look 
back  upon  the  road  over  which  we  had 


220  Campihg  Out  in  California. 

traveled  and  view  the  valley  beneath, 
and  as  we  ascended  the  mountain  new 
scenes  continually  burst  upon  our  vis- 
ion. The  road  w^as  wide  and  far  from 
being  dangerous,  yet  from  one  place  we 
could  look  into  a  ravine  to  a  depth  of 
two  or  three  hundred  feet. 

The  girls  who  preferred  to  walk  were 
not  backward  in  expressing  their  ad- 
miration of  the  many  pleasing  and  in- 
teresting scenes. 

They  would  look  into  the  deep  moun- 
tain vases  from  which  vast,  fragrant, 
and  evergreen  boquets  arose,  filling  the 
morning  air  with  a  rich  and  spicy  per- 
fume. 

Then  they  would  gaze  upward  among 
the  low  bushes  with  which  the  rocks 
were  modestly  adorned.  Occasionally 
they  would  stop  in  the  shade  of  some 
spreading  oak  or  drooping  pine  to  ad- 
mire the  morning  rays  that  fell  like 
glittering  grains  of  diamond  dust  among 
the  scalloped  leaves  and  slender  needles; 


Crossing' St.  Helena,  221 

and  also  to  speak  pleasant  words  to  the 
little  birds  that  ventured  near  as  if  de- 
sirous of  becoming  better  acquainted 
and  knowing  more  of  that  creature  who 
was  made  in  the  ''image  of  God." 

It  was  near  the  middle  of  the  day, 
when  we  reached  the  summit,  and 
although  we  had  moved  so  slowly  and 
stopped  so  frequently  we  were  a  little 
tired  and  consequently  concluded  to 
tarry  on  the  mountain  top  "and  rest  a 
while." 

All  the  way  up  the  winding  stairs  of 
three  thousand  feet  the  horizon  wid- 
ened to  our  view,  and  now  as  we  stood 
on  the  roof  of  Helena's  vast  and  lofty 
structure  we  could  look  far  away  beyond 
other  towering  pinnacles  into  the  blue 
and  purple  haze  of  the  misty  cloud  land, 
while  just  below  us  lay  the  pleasant 
village  of  Calistoga  with  its  hot  springs 
and  feathery  palms. 

A  lively  breeze  was  now  passing 
through  the  trees,  and  a  few  curled  and 


22^  Camping  Out  m  California. 

woolly  clouds  were  flying  with  eaglets 
flight  above  our  heads,  causing  the 
shadows  to  glide  across  the  valley  and 
up  the  mountain  side  with  the  velocity 
of  the  red  deer  that  once  ran  un- 
molested over  these  very  grounds. 

And  as  we  gazed  above  us,  beneath 
us,  and  around  us,  one  of  our  company 
repeated  the  words  of  a  modern  traveler 
as  he  stood  on  the  summit  of  Mount 
Tabor. 

"Thought  after  thought  in  countless  throng 
Comes  chasing  countless  thought  along." 

After  we  had  rested  and  carefully 
viewed  the  surrounding  country,  we 
plunged  into  the  dark  woods  on  the 
north  side  of  the  mountain  and  began 
to  descend  toward  a  little  valley  far  in 
the  distance. 

Here  we  did  not  find  the  road  quite 
as  steep  as  on  the  south  side,  but  it 
wound  back  and  forth  in  a  remarkable 
manner.  At  one  place  Ben  and  Harry 
sprang  from  the  wagon,  ran  down  a 


Crossing  St.  Helena,  223 

rugged  declivity  and  stood  in  the  road 
at  least  a  half  mile  in  advance  of  the 
team. 

In  a  short  time  we  had  for  a  travel- 
ing companion  a  beautiful  little  stream 
that  for  several  miles  marched  abreast 
of  the  horses.  It  danced  and  laughed 
and  sang  so  sweetly  that  we  almost  for- 
got we  were  "homeward  bound"  as  we 
listened  to  the  soft  tunes  that  the  joy- 
ful brook  pla3^ed  on  the  stone  keys  and 
willow  harps. 

This  enchanting  streamlet  was  still 
robed  in  summer  attire,  and  adorned 
with  grass  and  flowers  that  were  fresh 
and  fragrant,  while  its  cheerful  brow 
was  fanned  by  the  waving  ferns. 

It  occasionally  kissed  the  drooping 
boughs  of  the  fir,  and  breathed  on  the 
tassels  of  the  pine,  and  sprinkled  the 
fading  leaves  of  the  oak  as  if  desirous 
of  seeing  them  refreshed. 

At  the  foot  of  the  mountain  we  parted 
with  our  babbling  companion  which 


224  Camping  Out  in  California. 

turned  off  in  another  direction  and  dis- 
appeared among  tall  madronas  and 
pines  that  stood  in  the  shade  of  the  dark 
hills  with  only  their  topmost  boughs 
penetrating  the  golden  sunlight. 

About  the  middle  of  the  afternoon 
we  reached  the  village  of  Middletown, 
situated  near  the  centre  of  a  fertile  and 
well  cultivated  valley. 

Here  our  young  campers  enjoyed  a 
pleasant  visit  with  a  number  of  those 
who  had  been  their  schoolmates. 

From  Middletown  we  continued  our 
journey  and  after  passing  many  beauti- 
ful farms  and  a  large  flouring  mill  we 
found  ourselves  slowly  ascending  an- 
other mountain  which  from  its  peculiar 
shape  is  called  Mt.  Cobb. 

About  dark  we  reached  the  toll  gate, 
when  a  little  man,  without  saying  a 
word,  reached  out  his  hand  for  the 
money. 

Our  horses  were  now  tired,  but  as  we 
could  find    no   suitable  spot  for  our 


Crossing  St.  Selena.  225 

wagon  and  tent,  we  moved  on  and  reached 
the  summit  about  nine  o'clock. 

Here  we  concluded  to  camp  by  the 
roadside  in  the  midst  of  huge  rocks. 

Presently  the  boys  had  a  roaring  fire 
blazing  from  a  hollow  place  on  the  top 
of  a  rock  that  was  as  large  as  a  small 
house,  and  on  that  foundation  of  sclid 
stone  we  surrounded  the  bright  fire  that 
lit  up  the  trees  around,  to  drink  our  tea 
from  tin  cups,  and  enjoy  our  stale 
bread  and  broiled  rabbit  steak. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

HOME  AT  LAST. 

The  next  morning  was  the  Sabbath, 
and  as  we  were  very  uncomfortably 
situated,  we  arose  early  and  drove  to 
Glenbrook,  a  distance  of  four  miles. 

The  descent  was  not  steep  and  the 
pleasant  woods,  the  picturesque  rocks, 
the  fallen  trees,  moss  and  fern  covered, 
which  surrounded  us  on  every  side,  en- 
abled us  to  decide  that  this  was  the 
most  delightful  mountain  we  had  found 
in  our  journey. 

We  soon  reached  a  little  glen  and 
hrook  between  two  mountains,  and  one 
of  the  loveliest  summer  resorts  in  the 
State. 

The  brook  fed  by  living  springs  which 
have  their  birth  in  the  cool,  leafy  re- 


Home  at  Last.  227 

ceses  of  the  mountains,  ripples  with  a 
musical  flow  over  the  rocks  all  through 
the  long,  dry  summer,  and  the  water  is 
ever  clear  and  cold. 

Here  we  camped  over  the  Sabbath, 
close  by  a  little  fall  in  the  shade  of  the 
willows  which  grew  along  the  brink,  and 
if  the  weather  had  not  been  quite  so 
warm  this  would  have  been  a  delightful 
camping  ground. 

Among  the  green  grass  which  bor- 
dered the  stream  were  blooming  many 
varieties  of  lovely  wild  flowers,  while 
the  grapevines  and  feathery  clematis 
bending  their  graceful  forms  over  the 
limpid  brook  found  cosy  hiding  places 
where  the  care-free  birds  swayed  to  and 
fro  entertaining  us  with  their  sweetest 
notes  of  melody,  which,  mingling  with 
the  gentle  cadence  of  the  waterfall,  made 
music  which  seemed  in  perfect  harmony 
with  the  quiet  rest  of  the  Sabbath. 

As  we  watched  the  happy  birds  that 
went  darting  back  and  forth  among  the 


228  Camping  Out  in  California. 

boughs  SO  full  of  life  and  happiness,  we 
thought  of  the  words  of  Luther.  When 
in  deep  distress  of  mind,  he  pointed  to 
a  little  bird  that  was  singing  sweetly, 
and  said:  ''Happy  creature;  he  leaves 
God  to  think  for  him." 

What  a  blessing  it  would  be  if  Chris- 
tians would  allow  their  Heavenly 
Father  to  think  for  them,  instead  of 
training  all  the  energies  of  body  and 
mind  to  think  for  themselves. 

"They  that  are  led  by  the  Spirit  of 
God  are  the  sons  of  God;"  but,  in  order 
to  be  led  by  tlie  Spirit  of  God,  we  must 
allow  Him  to  think  for  us,  and  thus 
our  thoughts  are  His  thoughts. 

The  quiet  of  ovir  Sabbath  was  broken 
by  only  one  accident. 

Harry  thought  he  must  ride  one  of 
the  horses  to  water,  and  passing  up  a 
steep  place  along  the  stream,  the  wil- 
low boughs  brushed  him  off  and  he 
fell  about  ten  feet  head  first  into  the 
water. 


Home  at  Last.  229 

Ben,  who  was  leading  the  horse,  began 
to  scream  for  Will. 

Harry  had  made  no  outcry,  but  was 
struggling  around  with  only  the  top  of 
his  head  out  of  the  water,  when  Will 
plunged  in  and  brought  him  out. 

Some  one  asked  Harry  why  he  did 
not  swim,  and  he  replied  earnestly,  "I 
did  my  very   best." 

Then  Eda  said,  ''Why  Harry,  do  you 
think  it  is  right  for  a  little  boy  to  go 
swimming  to-day?" 

He  answered  quickly,  "It  ain't  wicked 
to  go  swimming  Sunday  when  you  don't 
know  you're  going  until  you're  gone." 

Fortunately  the  water  was  very  deep, 
so  the  fall  did  not  injure  him  and  our 
Sabbath  closed  with  feelings  of  grati- 
tude and   happiness. 

The  next  morning  we  began  to  climb 
Mt.  Hanna.  We  do  not  know  why  it 
received  this  name,  but  as  it  immedi- 
ately adjoins  the  lofty  Uncle  Sam  that 
stands  erect  with  his  head  often  bathed 


230  Camping  Out  in  California. 

in  the  nimbus  clouds  near  three-quar- 
ters of  a  mile  above  the  shimmering 
lake  that  slumbers  at  his  feet,  we  won- 
dered why  it  was  not  called  Aunt 
Hanna. 

There  are  vast  quantities  of  shining 
black  stones  scattered  over  this  moun- 
tain, which  some  call  obsidian  and 
others  say  are  pieces  of  lava  thrown  up 
by  some  volcano  which  is  now  extinct. 

Although  while  on  Mt.  Hanna  we 
were  below  the  shoulders  of  Uncle  Sam,, 
we  nevertheless  had  a  fine  view  of  the 
country  that  lay  before  and  so  far  be- 
neath us. 

The  morning  we  started  on  our  jour- 
ney we  left  Clear  Lake  on  the  north, 
but  now  we  are  approaching  it  from  the 
south,  from  whence  it  appears  to  better 
advantage. 

It  is  true  from  this  mountain  we 
could  not  see  all  the  lake  because  it  is 
about  thirty-five  miles  long  and  vary- 
ing in  width  from  four  to  fifteen  miles, 


Some  at  Last.  231 

yet  we  could  look  down  on  the  center 
and  broadest  portion  of  this  beautiful 
sheet  of  water.  And  while  one  of  its 
arms  extended  north  among  little  hills 
and  valleys,  and  fertile  farms,  where  the 
wild  flower  blooms  and  the  tule  waves, 
where  peaches  and  plums  ripen  in  the 
shade  of  the  oak,  where  the  snowy 
sheep  and  the  hunted  deer  are  near 
neighbors  and  graze  on  the  same  ground, 
the  other  arm  was  thrown  around  the 
waist  of  Uncle  Sam. 

Lake  County  has  been  called  the 
Switzerland  of  America,  and  certainly 
no  spot  on  this  continent  is  more  de- 
serving of  the  significant  title. 

Besides  the  striking  resemblance  of 
climate,  Clear  Lake  is  near  the  size  and 
form  of  Geneva,  Avhile  the  wonderful 
chain  of  Blue  Lakes  possess  a  striking 
resemblance  to  the  blue  Thun  and 
Brienz  and  also  the  Lucerne. 

And  then  the   valleys  enclosed   by 
mountain  walls,  mostly  small  'tis  true, 


232  Camping  Out  in  California. 

but  even  in  midwinter  they  are  car- 
peted with  green  grass  and  strewn  with 
delicate  flowers  and  in  summer  yield- 
ing burdens  of  wheat,  alfalfa  and  fruit. 

If  we  compare  Big  Valley,  Scotts  Val- 
ley, and  Bachelor  Valley  with  Cham- 
ouni,  Zermatt,  and  Grindewald  ot  Swit- 
zerland, we  will  find  that  the  former 
are  not  very  much  surpassed  by  the 
latter  in  any  respect. 

Lake  county,  no  doubt,  has  a  promis- 
ing future,  because  it  is  not  yet  thor- 
oughly known  that  its  peculiar  com- 
bination of  lake  and  valley  and  moun- 
tain and  forest  atmosphere  is  a  balm 
for  nearly  all  diseases,  while  among  its 
hundreds  of  medicinal  springs  any 
invalid  may  find,  if  not  a  permanent 
cure,  at  least  a  speedy  relief. 

At  Witter  Springs,  one  mile  east  of 
Blue  Lakes  and  about  six  miles  north 
of  Clear  Lake,  ie  a  bright  little  foun- 
tain, called  the  ''Dead  Shot,"  that  has 
been  known  to  cure  a  number  of  can- 


ffome  at  Last  233 

cers,  so  wonderful  is   its  blood  cleans- 
ing power. 

At  the  foot  of  Aunt  Hanna  we  en- 
tered the  village  of  Kelseyville,  which 
stands  half  hidden  by  trees  on  the  bank 
of  a  large  flowing  stream.  Here,  after 
traveling,  perhaps,  six  hundred  miles 
from  our  starting  point,  we  behold 
scenery  nearly  equal  to  any  on  which 
we  had  looked  in  all  our  journey. 

In  the  center  of  this  town  is  an  im- 
mense oak,  which  is  far  the  largest  we 
have  ever  seen. 

Here  is  a  gas  well,  into  which  if  you 
drop  on  a  dark  night  a  lighted  shaving, 
a  bright  blaze  will  spring  up  to  light 
the  streets. 

Here  is  the  best  steam  organ  factory 
we  have  ever  visited.  It  is  filling  the 
mountains  and  valleys  with  sweetest 
music  and  pouring  its  golden  notes  into 
many  an  humble  home. 

Immediately  adjoining  Kelseyville  is 
a  prune  orchard,  fully  as  beautiful  and 


234  Camping  Out  in  California 

as  thrifty    as    any    we    had     passed. 

This  town  is  a  favored  spot.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  south  by  Uncle  Sam 
and  Aunt  Hanna,  on  the  east  by  a  fer- 
tile plain,  stretching  away  to  the  lake 
shore,  on  the  west  by  the  meandering 
stream  and  the  green  clad  hills  beyond, 
and  on  the  north  by  rich  farms,  where 
sixty  bushels  of  wheat  to  the  acre  has 
been  grown  partly  in  the  shadow  of 
broad  spreading  oaks,  and  it  is  sur- 
rounded by  fine  horses,  cattle  and  flocks 
of  sheep. 

This  quiet  village  contains  four 
churches,  and  the  commodious,  well 
furnished  and  properly  conducted 
Uncle  Sam  Hotel,  where  such  as  are 
overburdened  by  the  excitement  of 
city  life,  can  find  a  superior  place  for 
rest  and  recuperation. 

Leaving  this  town  we  passed  along 
the  valley  road,  on  either  side  of  which 
lay  productive  farms  that  are  in  no 


Home  at  Last.  235 

way  inferior  to  those  in  the  large  val- 
leys of  California. 

Presently  we  reach  Lakeport,  which, 
like  ancient  Rome,  is  built  on  seven 
picturesque  hills.  In  some  time,  in 
the  not  far  distant  future,  this  village 
will  very  probably  be  known  as  a  great 
city  on  the  shore  of  a  beautiful  lake 
and  the  center  of  a  vast  natural  sani- 
tarium. Lakeport  has  five  churches, 
two  weekly  papers,  large  flouring  mill, 
two  banks  and  a  fine  school   building. 

Passing  through  this  city  of  the  Lake, 
we  soon  enter  a  little  cottage  which  is 
empty,  but  not  by  any  means  "swept 
and  garnished."  And  as  we  began  to 
sing, 

**Be  it  ever  bo  humble, 
There  is  no  place  like  home," 

a  six  foot  tramp  appears  at  the  door, 
and,  after  bowing  very  politely,  he  soars 
aloft  on  the  wings  of  eloquence:  "My 
name,"  he  exclaims,  "is  John  Wilson 
Doubleday.  I  am  a  cousin  of  Colonel  J. 
W.  Doubleday,  you  know;  everybody 


236  Camping  Out  in  California. 

knows  him.  I  am  a  gentleman,  first 
class,  you  know,  was  raised  a  gentle- 
man, but  am  out  of  money;  the  best  of 
men  will  be  strapped  once  in  a  while, 
you  know,  and  I  would  like  to  stay 
with  you  a  few  days  until  I  can  get  a 
position  as  captain  of  one  of  the  steam- 
boats." 

We  concluded,  not  only  from  his  won- 
derful eloquence,  but  the  smell  of  his 
breath,  that  he  was  too  familiar  with 
evil  spirits  and  had  just  come  from  one 
of  their  Lakeport  dens;  consequently, 
after  giving  him  a  lunch,  we  advised 
him  to  double  day  at  some  place  where 
he  could  work  for  his  board. 

As  the  night  gathered  around  us,  we 
humbly  thanked  our  Heavenly  Father 
for  his  protecting  care  during  our  long 
journey,  and  also  for  bringing  us  all 
safely  back  to  our  homes.  And  as  we 
retired  to  rest,  we  thought  that  our 
journey  was  an  emblem  of  the  journey 
of  life. 


Home  at  Last.  237 

We  start  out  in  infancy,  and,  after 
travelling  over  mountains  of  happiness, 
and  through  valleys  of  trouble  and 
along  the  ocean  of  infinite  grace,  we 
return  to  the  very  place  from  whence 
we  started.  ''Dust  thou  art  and  unto 
dust  thou  shalt  return/' 

But  from  the  death  bed  we  start  out 
on  a  journey  that  will  never  end. 
Through  what  kind  of  a  country  will 
we  travel  eternally  ? 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 
BERKELEY 

Return  to  desk  from  which  borrowed. 
This  book  is  DUE  on  the  last  date  stamped  below. 


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